Huricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

cobra1476

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
129
Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

I would have filled the boat up (while on the trailer)with water with the plug in and see where it would be seeping from.
 

Crochunter

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
31
Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Hey again I have a few questions on the bilge system, I am ordering a new pump and float the question i have is Why is it that there is an automatic float switch here if the switch for the bilge is on the dash? Is it or can it be set up for auto and manual? just trying to be sure I get the right part as well as hook it up right..

question 2 is the aerator pump in the pic is for the livewell, I am also getting this new but I notice they have ones that mount straight and some that come in and than 90 up, does it realy matter witch one I get in this application?
 

Attachments

  • BOAT 004.jpg
    BOAT 004.jpg
    126.9 KB · Views: 0
  • BOAT 005.jpg
    BOAT 005.jpg
    144.9 KB · Views: 0

Home Cookin'

Fleet Admiral
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
9,715
Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

there are lots of wiring diagrams here, but basically your float switch is independent of the dash switch; it should be wired directly to the battery (and fused) and not subject to a battery cut-off switch. The dash switch should be a 2 way--auto and manual; leave it on auto except when you have occasion to run the pump manually. usually the float switch won't kick on until there is a couple inches in there (saves the battery) and manual canbe used to clear it all.

I have a dash switch with a red light that comes on if the switch is on manual, or if the float switch kicks on. This serves two purposes: I won't accidentally leave the pump on, and I have an alert if the float comes on while underway. Sometimes when I start up on a plane, it kicks on as the accumulated bilge water heads astern.
 

emoney

Commander
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
2,551
Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

I'm with Home Cookin' except I wouldn't put the option of "auto or manual" on the switch at the dash. The "auto" portion should be passive, in that it's directly connected to the battery first and the switch on the dash just overrides "off", meaning you can make it pump. We may be saying the same thing, but just want to make sure there's no "human error" put into the system by making the float switch user operated.

As for the aerator it shouldn't matter if it's right-angle or straight as long as it reaches the bottom of the live well to provide the needed O2 to keep the water circulating.

I'm no where near your boat, so take this with a grain of salt, however you might want to dig a tad deeper on the transom rot possibility. I know your mechanic said it's "solid", but usually solid wood doesn't show that staining through a plastic fitting. The early pictures you show with the "missing parts hole" is what really looks like there's been water intrusion. Again, you're next to the boat and I'm thousands of miles away looking at pictures, so you're the only opinion that truly matters. And as much as the "best answer" is the transom is solid, it's not an impossible task to replace it and when it comes to safety for the family, "It should be ok" probably shouldn't be in the vocabulary. You can always take a small drill bit and drill from inside the boat into the transom, making sure you don't go all the way through, and test the wood to confirm and take away any doubt. Drilling 2 to 3 "test samples" towards the bottom of the transom, evenly spaced out, are easily filled with 5200 after you're done. If the wood shavings are dry and "woody", then you can rest comfortably knowing all is well. If they're even a little wet or mushy, then you really need to consider pulling that motor (not as hard as it sounds) and having a go at the transom. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

Crochunter

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
31
Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

I'm with Home Cookin' except I wouldn't put the option of "auto or manual" on the switch at the dash. The "auto" portion should be passive, in that it's directly connected to the battery first and the switch on the dash just overrides "off", meaning you can make it pump. We may be saying the same thing, but just want to make sure there's no "human error" put into the system by making the float switch user operated.

As for the aerator it shouldn't matter if it's right-angle or straight as long as it reaches the bottom of the live well to provide the needed O2 to keep the water circulating.

I'm no where near your boat, so take this with a grain of salt, however you might want to dig a tad deeper on the transom rot possibility. I know your mechanic said it's "solid", but usually solid wood doesn't show that staining through a plastic fitting. The early pictures you show with the "missing parts hole" is what really looks like there's been water intrusion. Again, you're next to the boat and I'm thousands of miles away looking at pictures, so you're the only opinion that truly matters. And as much as the "best answer" is the transom is solid, it's not an impossible task to replace it and when it comes to safety for the family, "It should be ok" probably shouldn't be in the vocabulary. You can always take a small drill bit and drill from inside the boat into the transom, making sure you don't go all the way through, and test the wood to confirm and take away any doubt. Drilling 2 to 3 "test samples" towards the bottom of the transom, evenly spaced out, are easily filled with 5200 after you're done. If the wood shavings are dry and "woody", then you can rest comfortably knowing all is well. If they're even a little wet or mushy, then you really need to consider pulling that motor (not as hard as it sounds) and having a go at the transom. Good luck and keep us posted.

Hey I went ahead and drilled a couple 1/2" shallow wholes in the transom from the inside as you suggested, The wood shaveing are dark in color but dry Im not sure what type of wood it is but still looks solid .. I had to clean alot of old leaves and pine needles and dirt and such from the motor well and all over the boat from where it sat, I believe the stains to be where it drained out the gunk as it rained... thank for your help..
 

rbh

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
7,939
Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

HI Croc-
Been sorta following this thread over the last week or so and glad the guys are able to help you out.
WOW there is a lot of cleaning to get the bilge area clean again, I also noticed back in the first set of pics??, that the thru hull fittings were not very water tight looking as you have found out, I prefer the 2 piece fittings myself that go together and clamp the hull between them with a rubber gasket and or sealer.
(replace old plastic hoses and couplers as they get hard with age and easly cracked)

I can see how with your bilge pump not working as you took off/momentum all the water moved to the stern lifting your bow up, yikes.


good luck
 

Crochunter

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 25, 2012
Messages
31
Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

Re: Hurricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

HI Croc-
Been sorta following this thread over the last week or so and glad the guys are able to help you out.
WOW there is a lot of cleaning to get the bilge area clean again, I also noticed back in the first set of pics??, that the thru hull fittings were not very water tight looking as you have found out, I prefer the 2 piece fittings myself that go together and clamp the hull between them with a rubber gasket and or sealer.
(replace old plastic hoses and couplers as they get hard with age and easly cracked)

I can see how with your bilge pump not working as you took off/momentum all the water moved to the stern lifting your bow up, yikes.


good luck


Ya I wish now I would have examined all of these things when i bought it, but I guess it is what it is.. I am looking into replacing all plugs and tubes now,,
 

cyclops2

Banned
Joined
Apr 19, 2011
Messages
1,237
Re: Huricane deck boat sunk I need to know why, please help

I would simply replace the NEEDED fittings & hoses to prevent the boat from filling up again. Patch up the engine so it runs good enough.

Sell it........Or run it 1 summer.......Then sell it.

If you still like a boat buy a Aluminum hull next time.......The double hull of ALL fibreglass boats are problems with age.......Have a marine boat inspector check the next boat out.......They are usually pretty sharp guys......... old geezers are best for a inspector in my opinion. They have seen & heard more problems.
 
Top