I/O (Sterndrive) Conversion to Outboards

[tpenfield]

Quick Update . . .

I had a feeling that the underside of the swim deck was fairly substantial in its construction . . .
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It certainly is . . .
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1.05" total thickness

0.33" Fiberglass
0.50" Balsa
0.22" Fiberglass

It has a wee bit more fiberglass than the transom

 

[tpenfield]

Done . . .
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[flashback]

That should bring happiness, it will be nice and stout.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Quick Update . . .

I had a feeling that the underside of the swim deck was fairly substantial in its construction . . .

1.05" total thickness

0.33" Fiberglass
0.50" Balsa
0.22" Fiberglass

It has a wee bit more fiberglass than the transom

similar over-build as my Rogue

 

[redneck joe]

Shouldnt you be using metric as an engineer

 

[Pmt133]

Shouldnt you be using metric as an engineer

I've seen furlong in the wild way more than you think you would.

 

[tpenfield]

Shouldn't you be using metric as an engineer

I still use imperial units of measure . . .

According to Google . . .
"While the U.S. has a policy to adopt the metric system (Metric Conversion Act of 1975) and federal agencies are required to use it, imperial units (customary units) persist in specific industries like civil construction and older infrastructure maintenance. Electrical engineering is almost entirely metric, while structural or automotive engineering in the U.S. may still use imperial units."

I do have a 'meter stick' (metric version of a yard stick) . . . All my tape measures are in feet/inches. FWIW - I use metric in my boat upholstery business.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Unlike the Mars rover design team. most engineers use about 3 or 4 units of measure depending on the customer. And get the conversions correct.

I personally like furlongs per fortnight for velocity and cubits for length when in conversation just to throw people off. We also know that a parsec is a measure of distance, not time.

@tpenfield, one of the things I recommend where you cut the access holes in the deck and have exposed balsa is to cut the balsa back about 3/8" (or 10mm) and dress the edge with some fairing compound. it will keep the balsa from soaking up moisture and mold spores from the air and causing problems about 3-4 years down the road.

one of the things I have done is chuck up a 3mm / 1/8" allen key into the drill with the short leg cut down and sharpened on the grinder. a trim router with a top bearing works too.

 

[tpenfield]

Yes, on the sealing up of the balsa . . . I usually use some resin for that purpose.

 

[flashback]

I've also used the allen wrench trick when mounting hardware on a balsa core deck on my old sailboat, it works well.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I got the idea from an old salty sailor about 15 years ago.

 

[tpenfield]

I did a 'test fit' today . . .

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I need to do some adjusting to get it snug to the transom . . . It's about 1/2" away . . . (13mm )

 

[Pmt133]

Looks good sir.

Color match is a wee bit off though.

 

[FLATHEAD]

Nice.
Plans for the trailer forth coming?

 

[tpenfield]

Needs a

Nice.
Plans for the trailer forth coming?

Thx . . . I have no plans for the trailer, other than some tongue weight adjustment.

 

[tpenfield]

The extension bracket needs a tweak . . .

After much effort, the extension bracket would not come all the way flush with the boat's transom. I suspect that the bevel sides are a 'wee bit' thicker/wider than my original take-off from the transom, even though I made some accommodation for fiberglass thickness. It probably was not enough.

Anticipating such an occurrence, I figured that I could add a spacer, which would then let the extension bracket mount in a slightly wider space. It looks like I need about 5/8" (15-16mm). I have 1/2" and 1" Coosa board to work with. I'll see what adding a spacer does. (tomorrow's effort)