It all started with a leaking livewell. boat restore project. 1993 Mirrocraft

Browndog10

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I was planning on adding the foam before I laid the floor. Then trim excess foam flat and lay the floor down. I also think that I am going to browse the plumbing section of the hardware store to see if I can custom make a channel that will lead the water from the deck right to the bilge.
 

Scott Danforth

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hit up Menards or Fleet Farm, get the plastic channels for covering PEX tubing in house plumbing, or use some PVC tubing
 

83mulligan

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I was planning on adding the foam before I laid the floor. Then trim excess foam
I suggest you cut a board to span the ribs and then use wax paper or butcher paper on the bottom side of the board. This way, when the foam is done expanding you can lift the board and paper and the foam will remain a nice closed cell structure. You'll have a lot less foam to trim and the trimmed part should be resealed so you will save yourself some work there. Plus, it will come out nice and flush in most areas.
 

Browndog10

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Ok Scott I will check that out. Looks like it may work. 83, Are you talking about how you did with the battery box on top? Yea, that looked like a great idea to me. Plus, like you I plan on doing the small pours so I do it right and don’t waste as much. OK, so I am looking at pricing on gluvit and stumbled on this stuff called coat-it. Any thoughts?
 

Woodonglass

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Coat-It is exactly the same stuff except it's Black and a bit less expensive.
 

Browndog10

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Since it will be done on the inside of the hull I am cool with that. :)
 

Browndog10

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Just as I started feeling like I was making progress I spot this. I saw driveway through it. Morale is at a big low tonight. Is this a JB weld thing or do I need to do the whole aluminum patch rivets etc. on it?
IMG_3910.jpg
 

83mulligan

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Put something next to it for size reference and someone here will know how to fix it. One thing I've learned on here is that holes in boats are really no big shake!
 

jbcurt00

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I'd start by removing the rivet next to the pit. If it's fill-able, it'll be easier to prep, fill & sand w/ the rivet out of the way. WHERE is this hole on the hull?

Then get out your inspection goggles and give the hull an incredibly in depth inspection to confirm you don't have any more.
 

Browndog10

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Here it is from the outside. Arrow shows the hole right next to the rail? Or whatever that is called. Approx.right under my feet on the console starboard side.
IMG_3911-1.jpg


I looked for more but lost daylight and had to put the monsters to bed.
 
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jbcurt00

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I just turn my monsters out in the yard at night, it's lots quicker & keeps the neighborhood cats outta my yard :watermelon:

Right at the edge of one of the chines along the bottom of the hull? 1 of the 2 outer ones, that are on either side of the keel, in this pix:
StarcraftFlip20130628_MG_1230_zpsb0b0bfd3.jpg


tricky spot for a repair if it's any more then just the little pin hole & a little pitting surrounding it.
 

Browndog10

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It is just a pinhole can I get away with JB weld and Coat-it? or will it need some more extensive repair work? I think the po po take me away if I just let them run around outside all night LOL!
 
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Woodonglass

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Well, I'm NOT a Tinner, but if I was...I'd scuff the surface and clean with acetone and then use some PC-11 or JB WATERWELD and Fill that thing with it makin sure it mushroomed thru the other side sorta like a rivet and then use Coat-IT on the inside to ensure a good seal and be done with it. But hey, I'm NOT a Tinner and I AM just an Old Dumb Okie sooooo you might wanna wait for somebody else to chime in...;):D:eek:
 
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Browndog10

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Doing a bit of research I think that the JB weld and coat-it will be fine. Unless anyone else has any thoughts that is what I am seeing out there. I am thinking that maybe I jbweld the hole lay a small square of alunimum around it, then jbweld that then coat-it. Maybe overkill but??? If it wasnt so close to the chine I would drill it out and add a close rivet with 5200 to it, but I cant do that due to the location.
 
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jigngrub

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I prefer the Loc-tite Marine Epoxy for stuff like that, you can get it at walmart and home depot. JB weld will work and JB weld Marine would be even better.

Coat-it is good if your going to put it inside the boat and then cover it up or paint over it. On the outside of a boat coat-it is a runny drippy mess.
 

Browndog10

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Ok, I have the JB Marine. I am going to look further and see if I know if any of my neighbors/friends that can tig weld aluminum. Hopefully, that's the only area with a hole.
 

jbcurt00

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Yep if it's only the 1 pin hole, fill & coat on the interior.

Since it's going to be below decks, fill & smooth on the exterior, but just fill it & the surrounding pitting on the interior & leave it proud of the surrounding surface. Below decks there's no need for it to be sanded & faired smooth & pretty.
 

Browndog10

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OK tonights setback. I filled the boat up with some water today not even fully to the water line and this is what I saw. Note this is just from being sprayed by the hose not even submerged. I bet if I sprayed it more it would be the whole length of the boat. I am telling you I am very close to scrapping this rig and selling for parts. I really feel defeated as at every turn there has been a bigger issue than there has should have been. Is this something that coat-it can fix or is this hull junk?

IMG_3918.jpg


IMG_3917.jpg


IMG_3916.jpg
 

jbcurt00

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I'm not there, but from the looks of it, yep, Coat-it or GluvIt should do it.

I'd consider tipping the boat to port to do the port chine, to starboard to do the starboard side, fore to do the bow area & back to static on the trailer to do the rest.

Tipping the boat will help keep the Coat-It or GluvIt where you put it in a seam, rather then mostly run out.

All is not lost, not even really 'lost' in the fog....... You should go take a look at BlueFin's resto ~ corrosion & pitting like no other hull.
 
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