Light white smoke / steam water ?? Normal ?

ilove2fixx

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The issue you may have is that the impeller is totally wasted and your forcing the water thru the engine. Do that splash test and report the results.
and do the test Rich suggested. with the motor off remove the water inlet hose and turn the water on. If it free flows out of the hose the impeller is gone.


I don't get it , can you please explain to me what to do ? I didn't understand the previous steps.

And also did you see the video I posted ? How does she look ?
 

Oshkosh1

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One of the biggest mistakes people make when troubleshooting fuel/ignition related issues is doing so while the engine is cold. Often, engines will run slightly rich when cold so can seem to have issues which don't exist after the engine has reached operating temp. Don't make ANY adjustments or judgements until the engine is fully warmed.

You do have water flow and after going back and re-reading your earlier posts my guess is that your impeller is fine...again, only a guess but so long as you're on muffs and there's warm water flowing out through the hull...it'll be fine to run until you get a new one installed.

Check to ensure your choke is not sticking and causing it to perpetually run rich. Also, pull a couple of plugs and post the pics. Some of us can tell a LOT of things by simply "reading" the color and other indicators on them.
 
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ilove2fixx

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One of the biggest mistakes people make when troubleshooting fuel/ignition related issues is doing so while the engine is cold. Often, engines will run slightly rich when cold so can seem to have issues which don't exist after the engine has reached operating temp. Don't make ANY adjustments or judgements until the engine is fully warmed.

You do have water flow and after going back and re-reading your earlier posts my guess is that your impeller is fine...again, only a guess but so long as you're on muffs and there's warm water flowing out through the hull...it'll be fine to run until you get a new one installed.

Check to ensure your choke is not sticking and causing it to perpetually run rich. Also, pull a couple of plugs and post the pics. Some of us can tell a LOT of things by simply "reading" the color and other indicators on them.

Ok will pull plugs tomorrow and post pics . Yeah it's running a heck lot better than yesterday ..
I forgot to mention like a dumb lazy ass I am
I never winterized it .. I just put stabil in the tank and never even ran it lol..
I know I know I'm a lazy dumb ass .. lol
But here in central cali we don't have freezing temp so I thought I was safe. You think that's why it's running so crappy ?
 

ilove2fixx

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How can I check my choke ? And how about the previous tests the guys mentioned ? How do I perform those exactly ?
 

Bt Doctur

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I watched the vid and cannot determine is you damaged it or not. you need to do the spash test and hose test.There is a 3/4 inch hose coming from the transom to the therm housing . remove it from the housing , using the muffs turn on the water. If it free flows from the hose the impeller is trashed.If no water comes out it MAY still be good
For the choke, with the motor cold, advanve the throttle and leave it advanced. Remove the flame arrestor and see if the plate is slightly open. If not, loosen the 3 screws on the heater element and rotate it to open the plate from fully closed to 1/8 inch open.
The plate setting is relative to each motor. some need more choke at start ,some need less choke at start.
 

ilove2fixx

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I watched the vid and cannot determine is you damaged it or not. you need to do the spash test and hose test.There is a 3/4 inch hose coming from the transom to the therm housing . remove it from the housing , using the muffs turn on the water. If it free flows from the hose the impeller is trashed.If no water comes out it MAY still be good
For the choke, with the motor cold, advanve the throttle and leave it advanced. Remove the flame arrestor and see if the plate is slightly open. If not, loosen the 3 screws on the heater element and rotate it to open the plate from fully closed to 1/8 inch open.
The plate setting is relative to each motor. some need more choke at start ,some need less choke at start.

I do notice that the plate is vertical wide open when engine off ? Is that normal ? When you say in advance you mean in forward right ? will try both tests and the spark plugs tomorrow thanks guys for the help
 

Bt Doctur

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In full fwd gear or with the button pushed in for throttle only
choke adj must be done with a cold engine. You have an electric choke heater element so dont leave the key on with a cold motor.
key off, stone cold motor
 

ilove2fixx

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Ok will do all the tests tomorrow and check plugs and do the choke adjustment , thanks guys will be back soon
 

bashr52

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Does the engine die if you push the throttle up quickly from idle? If it died when moved quick but runs ok when slowly advanced I would suspect the accelerator pump may be plugged. If it just doesn't run at all at midrange, that's something else.
 

Oshkosh1

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Does the engine die if you push the throttle up quickly from idle? If it died when moved quick but runs ok when slowly advanced I would suspect the accelerator pump may be plugged. If it just doesn't run at all at midrange, that's something else.

Yeah that's what I thought as well. I recommended that he replace the accelerator pump as a part of the carb overhaul. As long as he has it apart...do it right, give it a new paint job and run it! If nothing else...he KNOWS the carb is good if anything in the future pops up.
 

ilove2fixx

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Ok checked hose no water coming out so impeller seems ok? Adjusted choke to be a little open about 1/6 inch ( before and after pics ) And checked plugs Still runs rough at idle , and dies when giving it gas to quickly and when going back to neutral quick it dies / struggles to stay on.. Here are pics
 

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bruceb58

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Should be zero problems running at that high of an RPM assuming you have good enough water flow. I do it all the time but I use muffs that supply water to both sides of the drive.

Also, seeing steam is totally normal.
 

ilove2fixx

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Yeah I have muffs on and full blast , I flood the street with so much water .. but other guys said earlier that at that high rpms water hose isn't sufficient and maybe that white smoke was the impeller burning , but I didn't smell any burning rubber ?

How about the pics of the stuff ? All look good ?
And it's still running rough at idle ?
 

bruceb58

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Turn the water onto the muffs, you will see all the water leaking out the edges of the muffs. Then start increasing the RPMS. As long as you still see SOME water leaking out the edges of the muffs, you are supplying more than enough water.

But here in central cali we don't have freezing temp so I thought I was safe. You think that's why it's running so crappy ?
It's not why. I never add anything to the fuel. That's not your issue.
 
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flipbro

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Do a compression test. One low cylinder will cause those problems. Could be a blown head gasket.
 

ilove2fixx

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Did anyone check the pics that I uploaded ? How do the plugs look? And how do the choke look?
 

flipbro

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To me the plugs look ok. But it's hard to tell on New plugs. When i do a plug chop i like to run my engines to wot then kill the ignition not letting off the throttle. Thats not recommended on a hose though. I highly recommend a compression test as part of your trouble shooting.
 

Oshkosh1

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Did anyone check the pics that I uploaded ? How do the plugs look? And how do the choke look?

The "Oracle ring" on the #4 plug(4th pictured) looks to be sooty. That can be an indication of running excessively rich at idle, or some other malady specific to that cylinder as the other 3 plugs look to be running just about right.
 

bruceb58

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Looking at plugs that have only run at idle is pretty much a waste of time. You can be slightly rich at idle which is fine and have plugs that look too rich. Do a hard run at speed, cut throttle and pull plugs before the engine has much of a chance to idle. That is how you do a proper plug read.
 
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