lower unit installation

[wrench 3]

When the adjustment is correct you should have marks running the full length of the first step on the tool and it should slide back out easily.

 

[andrewterri]

I am only getting the tool half way on the first step, however, I started with only getting an inch. I have to push the bar really hard to get it on half way though. still heavy marks on top so I am headed out to keep raising. I will report back...

 

[wrench 3]

There is no side to side adjustment. If, after getting your best adjustment, you can't get it to go in all the way and pull back out with only you fingers (and a thumb) rotate the crankshaft a quarter turn and if the position of the marks changes you have a warped coupler.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I found that if you are a ways out of adjustment it is pretty easy to see just looking with a flashlight through the gimbal bearing. In my case I was installing a different motor altogether than the boat was designed for, when the bar got tight after raising the mounts, I took a look and it was obvious the coupler was tipped upwards.

Proper method once you get close is to loosen the one nut a few flats and tighten the other the same few flats. Recheck with your alignment tool. Sometimes it takes a couple minutes, sometimes it takes a couple people's worth of patience.

Rick

 

[andrewterri]

confused, frustrated, and tired. I have been working all this all afternoon getting in and out of the boat and still cant get it. I had to raise the front adjustment stud nearly all the way up which is about one inch. I have gotten the bar to slide and get spline marks about half way up on the first step, maybe a little more. I have to use force to get it in by shoving it with my palm. when I do this I hear metal hit so I think its all the way in. I appear to still have thicker marks on top of the bar but if I take the front of the engine up I can not get more than one inch of spline marks. If I look at the coupler, it looks like it is tilted. is it possible to have went the wrong way with the adjustments and nearly max out an still be able to get the bar in by pushing hard? It also feels like the bar hits the top of the coupler first then tilts down. When I put in the gimbal bearing I drove it in until it was solid. I got it seated then used the included steel ring and 2x4 to drive it in.

 

[alldodge]

With a new gimbal bearing it will be stiff, so after adjusting the mount put the bar in, then take the palm of your hand and smack the bar left/right/up/down. Do this a few times, then try to slide the bar in. You might be getting close but won't know it if the gimbal bearing is not centered.

 

[wrench 3]

Remember, what your looking for is whether the heavier contact is towards the tip or farther down the tool. It is possible that your tool has the small diameter machined farther down the shaft than mine. But mine bottoms on the back side of the coupler when it's all the way in. The main think is that it slides in and out easily, not stick in there.
If you study BT's graphics you should be able to get an idea of what the tool is doing in the coupler.
When your frustrated and tired it's best to take a brake anyway. Things tend to go better when you get back.

 

[andrewterri]

I stopped after that last message and today I feel much more optimistic. I did what you suggested AllDodge and felt really solid. I also started the engine to see if the coupler was warped and it was not; problem is the front mount was still loose and the wife said the engine was jumping all over the place. I was watching the coupler spin true (thank goodness). I know starting the engine with a loose front motor mount cant be good though, hopefully I did not damage the rear mounts. However, it might be my optimism, but I adjusted up to where I was yesterday and now the bar DOES go in all the way. Now the bar goes in and the grease marks are even but the bar is still real tight, its not as tight as it was earlier but tight none the less. What should I do, keep raising a 1/8th at a time and see if it gets easier? Can the bearing be tight and that is what's causing it? I am leaning toward the coupler still being off since the bar goes in and doesn't get tight until it gets and inch into the coupler (according to the spline marks). Thanks again for all of you guys help.

 

[thumpar]

You might try using a set of calipers to see if the bar is spec. If you have even grease marks you should be aligned.

 

[andrewterri]

I have grease marks all the way around and they look equal but the bar is really tight. I bought bar offline, it is not factory. I would have to go buy or rent one to check the bar. What if I put the outdrive one? Wont it only go on smooth if everything is lined up perfectly?

 

[thumpar]

I can go on even if the alignment is off a little. You can find the specs in the adults only thread to check your bar.

 

[andrewterri]

thank you I just found them. This boat is making me so MAD. I was trying to fine tune the adjustment and now I do not have any marks on the bottom of the bar. How is that possible? Does that mean the engine is to high? My neighbor is going o let me use his caliber when he gets home

 

[thumpar]

Rotate the engine by hand 180 degrees and try again. It may not visibly be warped.

 

[andrewterri]

I do have marks on the tip of the bar on the bottom but then half way up the bar on the bottom they are gone.

 

[andrewterri]

I finally got it guys!!!! Engine was way to high. It is near perfect now. I am going to try and tweak it then put the outdrive on. Thank you guys again could not have done it without you all. Now on to the next problem

 

[wrench 3]

Hey, next time you do the alignment it'll be a breeze.

 

[Rick Stephens]

Awesome!

 

[andrewterri]

Hold that thought.... Tested the boat and I still have that same clicking noise when I am turning to the left and to the right. I know the alignment is dead on. I have read that some of that noise is normal at full lock but mine is going it before I even get there. Does this point to the U joints? IS there a way to test them and are they hard to change?

 

[Scott06]

Since the gimbal bearing is new ujoint replacement would be my thought as well.

Since you're already goid at taking the drive on and off should be easy for you...

I did this two years ago on my 1990 3.0 so I assume yours is the same. I bought Moog315g ujoints from summit racing for way less than merc parts. If you carefully clearance the two of the tabs on the big finger nut holding the bearings and drive shaft into the top you can press out the ujoint cups on the joint closest to the drive, the other joint is a piece of cake. I used a big c clamp and larger deep sockets to make a poor mans balljoint press (can rent at some auto stores). Took about an hour and you don't have to mess with setting spacers and beating preload when you remove the drive shaft from the drive.

On a plus side vibration at planning speed was greatly reduced.

 

[andrewterri]

Scott06, do you have a gen1 or gen 2 outdrive. Want to make sure I need the u joint with the external snap ring