Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Progress update. Today was KILLER!!! Looks like some thing got done, gonna throw a bunch of pics up, most of you following this have done all this before but I am leaving a "How I did it"
Center foam cavity bottom piece

Rivet it in, lube rivets with caulk and install


Clean up the extra caulk from rivets

Marine grade caulk i am using, we found this at work for a pool application we had going, substantially less $ than 5200 with same specs, like 3$ a tube in bulk

one thing leads to another, and.....

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

I drill a couple holes


Looking sweet, battery box to box conduit run

Bat box to motor run

Vacuum is in play for every hole drilled, when I demo'd the boat it seemed like every bit of assembly crap was still in it from Starcraft, extra nuts and bolts, tails from rivets, wood and metal chips from drilling, etc. trying to be cleaner than that!
Prep for the next piece, I am using wood cleats instead of the original aluminum strips so it will be a mixture of riveting and screws.

One long cleat down the middle in the traffic area, stiffening up my slightly under 1/2" decking, PL premium glue

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

also putting a bead of caulk in between pieces

Next piece installed

one to go, same procedure with cleats glue and caulk


Left a nice gap at the back for drainage and access to lower transom for trim tab install or whatever.
Gotta dam the end of the last piece for foam, took a pattern of the back transom and made these

which fit killer,

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

The other dam,

Gonna epoxy em up and screw em though the top and glue the gaps shut, should lock the floatation foam in nicely. Meanwhile Stephanie was sanding the bow piece and epoxying the rest of the interior pieces i had cut, mostly cuddy pieces.



2nd coat of epoxy on bow piece and another blob of PB, will sand it down one more time and reseal it up, should be done with it tomorrow night.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Great work Magnum. Really nice progress........

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Birds eye view of today's deck job


Real happy with todays progress!!!!!!!!:joyous: Now I hope we get the high 70's temps Tuesday and Wednesday so we can get foam installed.
What ya all think, looking sweet or what? I think so!!!!

Added info,
Took epoxy and dripped it into all the screw holes to seal them up.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

!!!!!:joyous: Now I hope we get the high 70's temps Tuesday and Wednesday so we can get foam installed.
What ya all think, looking sweet or what? I think so!!!!

It definitely ain't "or what". Sweetness all the way.

It your first pics I had a bad feeling. I'm so used to seeing foam sheets before a deck is laid down I went "oops" until I remembered the foam dams for pour-in. Whew! And you confirmed. Come on 70+ degrees for foaming!

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

It definitely ain't "or what". Sweetness all the way.

It your first pics I had a bad feeling. I'm so used to seeing foam sheets before a deck is laid down I went "oops" until I remembered the foam dams for pour-in. Whew! And you confirmed. Come on 70+ degrees for foaming!

Yep, seems a shame to go and drill holes in that nice deck to pour that rotten foam in there,But that is whats gonna happen

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Wow, huge day, monster progress, looks awesome!

 

[dozerII]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Awsome progress Mag, work looks great, kinda bomb proof like another Islander builder we all know.

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Great work Magnum. Really nice progress........

Wow, huge day, monster progress, looks awesome!

Awsome progress Mag, work looks great, kinda bomb proof like another Islander builder we all know.

Thanks guys, feels great to be able to stand on the deck! 1 year ago I was in demo on ol 69, hopefully ol 76 will be done before another goes by.

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

on another note there was one more thing that got done, vacuumed out my float pod and had some Gluvit left so I sealed all welds and bolts inside of the pod, my plan is to fill the pod with foam, at least to the point of the motor bolts.

Happy monday!!:grumpy:

 

[Teamster]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Great progress,............

 

[bob johnson]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

on another note there was one more thing that got done, vacuumed out my float pod and had some Gluvit left so I sealed all welds and bolts inside of the pod, my plan is to fill the pod with foam, at least to the point of the motor bolts.

Happy monday!!:grumpy:

great work....moving along.... on your plan to fill the pod with foam.... i cant help but think of that as a step backwards....the pod is water tight, isnt it? adding foam would just add weight with no more flotation capacity...unless the pod took on a hole....


good luck and carry on....bob

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

great work....moving along.... on your plan to fill the pod with foam.... i cant help but think of that as a step backwards....the pod is water tight, isnt it? adding foam would just add weight with no more flotation capacity...unless the pod took on a hole....


good luck and carry on....bob

Ya should be water tight, not real impressed with my inspection plate and I believe I will gain some structural support, stiffness from the foam for minimal weight gain, 2lb foam X 9cu ft = 18 pounds Right???

 

[bob johnson]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

Ya should be water tight, not real impressed with my inspection plate and I believe I will gain some structural support, stiffness from the foam for minimal weight gain, 2lb foam X 9cu ft = 18 pounds Right???

I wouldn't know, I don't have much knowledge on the weight of the pour in foam....maybe its a little insurance for only 18 lbs....I bought a used Mig welder yesterday! Millermatic 250 with a 30A spool gun. and a 50 foot extension cord. we welded up some cut off pieces from my big boat...welded easy...I was migging parts together in 5 minutes... way way way faster than TIG.....and since ill grind it out before painting...it doesn't have to be a beautiful as TIG....I think since I have the Mig machine now, Ill try and do a full pod under the swim deck on my outboard bracket. the hardest part will be figuring the shapes of all the sheets.bob

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

I wouldn't know, I don't have much knowledge on the weight of the pour in foam....maybe its a little insurance for only 18 lbs....I bought a used Mig welder yesterday! Millermatic 250 with a 30A spool gun. and a 50 foot extension cord. we welded up some cut off pieces from my big boat...welded easy...I was migging parts together in 5 minutes... way way way faster than TIG.....and since ill grind it out before painting...it doesn't have to be a beautiful as TIG....I think since I have the Mig machine now, Ill try and do a full pod under the swim deck on my outboard bracket. the hardest part will be figuring the shapes of all the sheets.bob

Nice, same rig I got, good welder. The density of foam is described in weight I believe, so 2LB = 2lb per cu ft.

From US. Composites web site
Urethane Pour Foam Overview
(see product FAQ section for more information)

This two-part liquid, expanding rigid urethane foam is a closed cell, pourable foam, which will resist the absorption of water.
The densities shown refer to the weight per cubic foot of expanded foam (12" x 12" x 12").
Once fully cured this foam can be laminated over with any type of polyester, epoxy or vinyl ester resin without melting.
This product can be poured in multiple layers with excellent bonding between layers.
All expansion rates and times given are temperature critical. Temperatures below 75 degrees F will lower the expansion rate therefore requiring more foam. Ideal working temperature is 75 to 80 degrees F or above.
Accurate measuring of these products is extremely critical.
Find our selection of measuring containers here.
Working time before foaming: approx. 45 seconds
Time before full expansion: approx. 5 minutes
The lightweight foam is commonly used for filling voids, filling under decks and practically any other flotation or insulation application. Higher densities are used for architectural castings, support applications and has virtually an unlimited number of potential uses.



It is not really structural rated but I consider it insurance if something drastic happened like a severe hard strike to the motor.

 

[djpeters]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

A couple tips when foaming..

You'll want a paddle on a drill to mix it. You have to work fast... like mix it right next to the hole you're going to pour it in. Don't wait to long to pour. If it kicks in the mixing bucket, you won't get it all poured down the hole because it will expand and close off the funnel. Then you have an eruption going on with nowhere to go with it. I used a plastic funnel with as big a diameter as I could fine. You'll have to peel the foam out after every pour. The stuff is messy, it sticks to everything except smooth plastic. You will have it all over you. It will take weeks to get it off your skin, especially if you're hairy. The amount to pour is kind of tricky. Not enough and you'll have voids because it won't push out, too much, and you may stress your floor or hull. I always left one end open and used a hand-held dam that I could hold some pressure against it, not sure if you can do that on yours.

HAVE FUN! POST PICS!

 

[magnumdeke]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

A couple tips when foaming..

You'll want a paddle on a drill to mix it. You have to work fast... like mix it right next to the hole you're going to pour it in. Don't wait to long to pour. If it kicks in the mixing bucket, you won't get it all poured down the hole because it will expand and close off the funnel. Then you have an eruption going on with nowhere to go with it. I used a plastic funnel with as big a diameter as I could fine. You'll have to peel the foam out after every pour. The stuff is messy, it sticks to everything except smooth plastic. You will have it all over you. It will take weeks to get it off your skin, especially if you're hairy. The amount to pour is kind of tricky. Not enough and you'll have voids because it won't push out, too much, and you may stress your floor or hull. I always left one end open and used a hand-held dam that I could hold some pressure against it, not sure if you can do that on yours.

HAVE FUN! POST PICS!

You make it sound like fun!! LOL How far did you space your pour holes? Every other rib OR ???????
And quantity wise I was planning on a SOLO cup full a pour, I just have no idea what that will yield. You pour yours in measured ounces??

 

[bob johnson]

Re: Magnumdekes 1976 22' Starcraft Islander

come magnum, you are a smart guy....whip up a thin plywood box the same shape as each wedge in between your ribs and mix you solo cup and pour it in your test box.....see if it is enough or is it starts to split your box apart......I bet with just two of those "test" boxes you could nail down about what you need, plus you will have some learning curve for delivery under your belt bob