"Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Not 100% sure what you are asking, but hopefully this will answer your question...

The PB does a couple of very important things...it creates a rounded transition between things so the glass can follow the curve...glass does not like to go over sharp corners...
The other thing it does, besides gluing the parts together, is it fills any gaps or voids...

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

sorry I know that the pic sucks cause it is not a recent one. Maybe I can explain it a little better.

When the Stringer is placed in its permanent spot, there is a 1/4 gap between the stringer and the raised edge (Strake, I think thats what its called)I'm still not familiar with all the terms of the boat yet. So I was thinking PB to attach the stringer to the hull and round the edge to the inside of the boat, then PB the entire gap so that the transition is straight for the gunwale over the stringer then down the stringer. If the makes sense.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Yes. I think...:redface:

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

the step in the stake takes a little planning. the stringer adds surport to this area so you can not leave a 1/4" gap. there are 2 options which is to either add thickness to the stringer in this section to close the gap or to fill it. as its only 1/4" the cost to fill it seems the best option. once filled you will still have to add extra to give a rounded transfer from the stringer to the hull. somewhere about 3/4 of the way down the boat the stringer might cross the stake or the stake will get further away, if the stake gets over a inch away then radius the stringer and the stake so the glass will flow from the stringer to the hull then back up the stake. fiberglass likes curves it doesnt like tight angles. (hope that ans your question).......just as a note from what you have said (i may be reading something into this thats not there) the fiberglass is going to be applied length ways on the stringer not across the stringer and the fiber glass is not going to cross the top and come down the other side in one go unless you are real good at glass work. the way i did it was to lay the stringer once sized to fit on the glass then trace around it then added extra inches to the bottom where it will be tabbed into the hull so i ended up with all the glass cut and numbered before i put the stringers in. first layer was +2 next was +4 next +6 etc. depending on temp and work time lenth of stringers you might find that this is to much glass to lay in one go. once you do the transom you will have a idea of how much glass you can work before the cure time.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I know this picture is a little blurry but I think it is really the only one that shows the gap that I am talking about. You can see some foam kinda in the gap.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So in theory I want the stringers as close to the stake as possible. Is that what I am understanding in your post Glenn

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Best guess at what I am seeing is to remove as much of the foam/debris that you can from these areas, then do a little Pre-Filling with some thickened PB, basically stuff as much as you can to fill the voids, then proceed as normal...

Plus what Glenn said is spot on...

If possible, get a long shot from a couple of different angles to help clarify at what angle and where this area is...the close up in this case is a bit confusing...

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

PS- check out the 4th pic in post #703 of my thread...there you can see one of the outboard stringers that have a step near the bow, similar to what Glenn is talking about...again, I think...:redface:

And the stringer next to that has the same "step", but is PB'd and CSM'd in already...

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I appreciate the help the problem is when I get the new pics there is nothing left in the boat. Its all gone. So these horrible pics are the only thing to back on. I thought I have documented pretty well, up till this point I have not done near enough...LOL

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

After looking at what your talking about I think it may be lack of proper boat terms that may be causing us issues. Let me do some googleing and lets see if I can get the right words in here.

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

dont worry about the correct names as im never correct with the names anyway. i know what you are talking about so heres some basics...
you can not rebuild (or should not) the same way it was done in the factory. they didnt care if the stringer missed the stake as they assembled some of the boat while it was wet. they also had a way to soak out large amounts of cloth and just drap it into the hull which is why its rotten in the first place. on my build the stringers didnt even touch the hull when they poured the foam in it went under the stringers. they also left gaps between the glass so it was bare wood in spots thus it was rotten all along the bottom of the stringers. the best way is to get a sealed stringer tight onto the hull and have a boat thats going to be here in years to come. small gaps get filled large ones get additional wood real odd shapes get filled first. get the stringers as close as you can with in 1/4" of the hull if theres a gap down the side then its either add wood or filler your looks like filler (pb) is your best option. pb is a great filler it not cheap but its real fun to work with.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Hello again everyone, I had to take a month off, vacation got in the way of boat building and been lazy last couple weeks. Decided to get back out and work on the boat. I got all of my mock stingers built out of pink foam, and I still have some questions on how to place the stingers. I think before there was still confusion as to what I was talking about so I decided to make some pictures, now these are no picaso's so take it easy on me. This is what I am trying to figure out, do the stringers go against the raises or should there be space between the raises in the stringer. Example below

This is what My current hull looks like.

Another picaso is coming for this explanation. On my smallest stringer it is 1" high by 1 3/4 wide and 10' long. my question is because there is not a lot of room between the raise and the stringer. Can I fill the gap between the two with PB and just but my layer of fiberglass lengthwise from the gunwale accross the hull, over the gap filled with pb, accross the top of the stringer, down the side and 4" down the slope. this is about 20" wide but did not know if this was an option or should the gap be there I hope this drawling makes sense. and obviously i would cap the stringers also

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Welcome back!

I went with placement 2, and just filled any gaps left w/PB fillets...this post in my thread kinda shows what I did... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3776051&viewfull=1#post3776051 ...

Made it easier to do the fillets and tabbing...the places where the stringers go away from the strakes and follow thw the curve of the hull, I just fillet w/PB and tab...

Just remember to keep about a 1/4" space, more or less, between the bottom of the stringers and the hull...you can use popsicle sticks or wooden dowel pieces for spacers...

Have Fun and Happy Saturday!

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

i went with placement 2 then adjusted the measurements on the floor when i cut that.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Welcome back!

I went with placement 2, and just filled any gaps left w/PB fillets...this post in my thread kinda shows what I did... http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=521706&p=3776051&viewfull=1#post3776051 ...

Made it easier to do the fillets and tabbing...the places where the stringers go away from the strakes and follow thw the curve of the hull, I just fillet w/PB and tab...

Just remember to keep about a 1/4" space, more or less, between the bottom of the stringers and the hull...you can use popsicle sticks or wooden dowel pieces for spacers...

Have Fun and Happy Saturday!

Thanks, I wanted to go with placement 2 as well because it just looked easier but placement 1 is how the factory had it so just was not sure if there was a right or a wrong.

Also is there a specific reason why you keep the stringer directly off the hull. I know that outside most stringer sat directly on the hull, the other 2 I am not sure as they were mostly rotted so I did not get much from them.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

i went with placement 2 then adjusted the measurements on the floor when i cut that.

looks like thats the way to go then.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Thanks, I wanted to go with placement 2 as well because it just looked easier but placement 1 is how the factory had it so just was not sure if there was a right or a wrong.

Also is there a specific reason why you keep the stringer directly off the hull. I know that outside most stringer sat directly on the hull, the other 2 I am not sure as they were mostly rotted so I did not get much from them.

I don't know the scientific reasoning behind it, but it has something to do with preventing a hard spot on the hull...I will try and find the specifics on this, but maybe someone with the knowledge will jump in and help to clarify...

 

[glenn property of pam]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

on mine the factory stringers didnt touch the hull they left gaps in the glass down the inside so foam would fill the gaps which also worked great on letting water into the stringers. i spaced mine 1/4" up and 1/4" in then filled the gap and chamfered with pb. i had to make the cut out for the bilge pump 3/4" wider when i cut the floor so it wasnt a big change in design.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So I think I am ready to start glassing in the stringers and the the transom and fix the holes that I put in the hull. Does anyone have an Idea of how much Fiberglass I should start with. I do not have enough Money to buy everything at one time so I would like to get enough to at least get me started.

Stringers are
3/4"w x 7.5"h x 6.5'l
3/4" x 4" x 12'
1.5" x 1" x 10"

Transom is
1.5" x 17" x 81"

3 Bulkheads

3/4" x 15" x 28"

What I would really like is enough to get it tabbed in enough to have everything in place and strong enough to be able to flip it. This includes enough stuff to make PB as well.

budget for first purchase is $150. I know I should wait and purchase everything at the same time, but I am ready to start glassing.

 

[sevanseriesta]

Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So I came up with this supplies list, if anyone has some input or recommendations let me know.

20 yards 1.5 csm
16 yards 1708
10 gallons Resin
1/4 chop strand
talc
bubble buster

My problem is not knowing how much talc and 1/4 chop strand to get for the PB Mix. Anyone got an idea on that.

Second Question would be, would you recommend PL or PB to attach the the transom to the hull? And what is the right PL to use? I have PL375 left from a basement project.