"Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Woodonglass

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

PB does NOT require glass bubble and or Qcells. To glue the transom in you only need resin and cabosil. You can add some Chopped fibers too but not absolutely necessary. The bubbles and cells are used in place of the cabosil when making Fairing Material. They make the resin much easier to sand. a Gallon of Bubbles for fairing material should be all you need.
 

sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

OHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, Thanks so much for clearing that up. I thought you always needed something with the cabosil. So essentially I could do resin and q-cell for a compound that is much easier to sand? But where would you use that at? And what if you added chop strand to it, what would that do for the compound?
 

sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

sorry I dont really understand the meaning of faring. I apologize again this is the first time I am doing something like this. Sorry for the noob questions.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Fairing is a very smooth creamy substance used to fill small scratches and depressions or gouges. It is the final product used to "Fair" the surface of a repair and make it smooth and ready for primer. I leaves no pinholes and is easily sanded. You could use it as a thickener and add chopped stand to make it more structural, however it will allow water absorption and is not recommended for below the water line. Mainly used for the Fairing Putty for surfaces that will always be above water. To make PB to glue the transom use this forumula. 1 qt resin (1,000 ml ), 1 qt cabosil, 1/4 cup Chopped strand. You may need to add more cabosil till it gets to the consistency of creamy peanut butter. Add 10 cc's (metric) of MEKP stir for 30 secs and then apply.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

The Glass Bubbles will NOT absorb water so you use them for Fairing material used below the water line.
 
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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

the holes in the hull are used for live well pumps and drains they can be filled if you no longer plan to have live wells but will be needed if you want the wells.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Any chance you're talking about the 8 holes in the TRANSOM & not the bilge. As you're last few photo show the boat gutted, essentially there is no bilge currently. There are a few holes in the transom:
232323232%7Ffp%3B73%3Enu%3D3244%3E%3A%3C8%3E882%3EWSNRCG%3D35865643%3C7339nu0mrj

And that you want to enlarge the 1's you want to keep, then fill them all solid w/ PB, and install the transom plywood. Then re-boring the holes you need to the right size thru the PB 'plug' so there is no wood in the thru hole, it's all PB resin? GT did fill quite a few holes that way........
 

sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So today I started fiberglassing, well using BP to fill the screw holes in my new transom and other misc holes in the boat that I created. My question is the Temp in my garage is 52, will the resin ever harden. I have waited about an hour now and it seems to be the same texture as it was when I started.

I made 1 quart and used 10ml mek added copped fibers and cabosil. Temp is only going to get colder in the garage. will it ever kick on its own or am I going to have to get heat in there?

Also is it possible to put fiberglass on to early? I mean if it is taking to long to kick and I try to put csm on the transom and wet it out am I just going to make it take even longer.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Resin needs 60 for an extended period of time, 12hrs +/-. Below 60, the resin may not be able to generate enough heat (gets hot enough to deform a plastic bucket if left in the bucket too long) to properly catalyze. The resin needs the exothermic reaction to cure properly. The surfaces you are bonding to need to be at 60 too during the resin's cure time.

I suggest you fire up all the halogen lamps you've got & get a heater started SOON, the temps will quickly drop after dark.....

If you make an error in calculating the amount of MEKP, and under catalyze a layup, someone posted that they had been instructed by a fiberglass manufacturer or supplier to slightly over catalyze the next layup & it would aid in curing the previous layup.

For example: If the ideal MEKP for your work time & ambient temps is 1.5% and you think you may have only used 1.3%, the next batch should be smaller then normal (mixed 'hot' it will kick faster) & mixed at 1.75%+/-....

It does not mean to mix at 2.5% MEKP, over cooking the resin is counterproductive too.

If the above example is workable, then I think it makes it difficult to add a layup too early. Laying up multiple layers at once, and as soon as a previous layer tacks over applying an additional layer also indicates to me that it'd be hard to add additional layers too soon. As long as the previous layer has cured & bonded sufficiently that you aren't moving it around or pulling it loose while you are working the next layup, I don't see any problem proceeding early.

NOTE: Too many layups added quickly 1 after another, or too many layers laid up all at once and the resin can over cook itself with the exothermic reaction.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

BTW: you are at about the absolute minimum MEKP% for proper catalyzation.

1 Qt = 946.xxx milliliters

10ml of MEKP to 946ml of resin is just barely over 1%

It is not surprising that at 52 (8 below the required minimum) that it seems to be curing slow. Using my example from before of 1.5% MEKP as ideal for normal curing, as the temps approached 60, I'd have probably used 1.75% instead of the minimum 1%.

Unless you've already gotten some heat going, I'm not sure that after an hour + at about 52, it may not cure properly no matter what happens now.
 

sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Well good news and bas news, was able to get the first layer of glass on my transom and was able to get it to kick. Thanks JB for the awesome info. I mixed it at 1.75 and put a halogen on it got everything to dry. However wife is pissed whole house smells like resin. She is not happy about this. I can not get the smell out. its now 40 degrees outside and the windows are open and the smell just wont leave.

Anything I should be worried about with smell. Im not going to go to sleep and never wake up am I?
 

GT1000000

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Hopefully you are awake as you are reading this and not some spirit looking down from above...:rolleyes:...

Unfortunately the smell is like the smell in a farmers field...to the city slicker it smells like S***, to the farmer it smells like money...

In time, the city slicker gets used to it...

You can only hope the same of the Mrs...:redface:

Happy Monday:D
 

sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Thanks, I am awake but bruised, I would assume that is from the beating the wife gave me. It looks like this whole thing is going to be on hold until it gets warmer. This is real disappointing however it will give me plenty of time to plan.
 
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Bill3434

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

It's amazing that women love to be out on a boat but when it comes time to repair or make them safer they are always complaining about the work. About to kick my room mate over the boat work.
 

sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Hey guys I'm back, its been a while but the weather is getting better in Kansas, Finally. So I attempted to fiberglass my transom, it did not turn out well. I will take pics later when I get everything cleaned up. I could use some tips around the edges. And also should I tear off the piece that I did and start over? Again I will post a pic in a little bit.
 

Bill3434

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Hey guys I'm back, its been a while but the weather is getting better in Kansas, Finally. So I attempted to fiberglass my transom, it did not turn out well. I will take pics later when I get everything cleaned up. I could use some tips around the edges. And also should I tear off the piece that I did and start over? Again I will post a pic in a little bit.

Yep the weather is much nicer now I spend my whole weekends working on my restore now and not worrying about the tempature.
 

sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Well, due to the embarasment of the horrible layup of the transom for the first time, I decided to not take pictures (to much pride I guess). So I went ahead and got the grinder out and went at clean up around the bad areas. I was fortunate to have no air bubbles on the main surface, most of the issues were around the edges where it would not wrap around. So I cleaned all of the excess hang off and cleaned it with acetone.

I went flipped it over and started glassing the other side. with a couple tips that I got from Gt1m. I now see why you round over the edges. It does not mater how much resin you put on it, if the corner is sharp it just will not lay over with out creating the bubble on the edge. So I have more prep work to do on all of my wood, but I think that I now see how its going to act. No pics due to the rain starting. And because I can not glass in the garage, I had to place the drying work underneath my boat cover, that is covering the cap.

Darn Rain!
 
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