"Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

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Bill3434

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

sevanseriesta said:
I think the wife has demanded that it gets wet this season. But now I am trying to decide if I want to redo the inside. Get rid of the second console and make more storage space. Not sure if its worth it or should I just leave her as is.
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You can make that your project for this winter when it's to cold to be on the lake, unless you like to ice fish.
 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Im not sure Im gonna want to repaint and fiberglass everything once its done. Ill see what I want to do when the cap is ready to go back on. That is still aways away.
 
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Bill3434

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

I'm just waiting for my motor to be installed so I can finish up with the small stuff.
 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Finally got my Resin Supplies yesterday, so hopefully I will have the inside fiberglassed this weekend. That is the tenative plan at least. So motor will be back on hold. But it appears that there is some sort of electronics issue.
 
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gddavid

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

sevanseriesta said:
anyone know anything about 70's model johnson's. I posted in the johnson/evinrude section with no response.
this is a 1970 115hp johnson. 115esl70d
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It has been a few years but I became familiar with 1970's vintage lower units. When the motor isn't running it's default position is in forward. It is a complicated system but when it is right it is a very good system. There is actually two solenoids in the lower unit that control a hydraulic pump which drives a piston forward and back to engage the clutch dog, simple enought right ;). There are two wires bundled together that some up out of the lower unit, each one engages one of the two solenoids. When the motor is in neutral, power is going to one solenoid that closes a valve for the hydraulic pump which builds pressure and pushes the shift dog aft to the middle position which is neutral. When power is going to both solenoids they both close valves in the pump which builds the pressure higher and pushes the shift dog further aft which is reverse. If no power is going to either solenoid the motor defaults to forward, this is nice because if all else fails in the system you can drive the boat home. The reason johnson went through so much trouble to accomplish this is to solve the operator error of grinding the clutch and gears from shifting too slowly, this system makes for accurate shifts. Unfortunately there are many points of potential failure. Johnson used this hydro electric system for the larger motors (lager 2 cylinder and all 3 and 4 cylinders models) during the 70's.

Earlier big evinrudes (60's) had an all electric system where the solenoid itself was in the bottom of the lower unit and slide the dog into and out of gear, no pump but a lot of fine metal windings that could break and lose your shifting ability. I have no personal experience with these.

Note: While you should never be in the water next to a running outboard in neutral, it is an especially bad idea next to one of these 70's models because if you lose power in the circuit the thing will go right into gear and we all know how unreliable wiring can be in the harsh marine environment.
 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Wow, thanks for that awesome response. I wish I could check to make sure they are working correctly by at least getting the motor started. I can tell you however that if I have any other button other then neutral pushed it will not even turn over. So I assumed at this point that the gear change was working properly.

I did notice that when trying to turn over the motor that the prop does turn for a split second and stop, I would assume that is what you are talking about the always starting in the forward position?
 
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gddavid

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

sevanseriesta said:
Wow, thanks for that awesome response. I wish I could check to make sure they are working correctly by at least getting the motor started. I can tell you however that if I have any other button other then neutral pushed it will not even turn over. So I assumed at this point that the gear change was working properly.

I did notice that when trying to turn over the motor that the prop does turn for a split second and stop, I would assume that is what you are talking about the always starting in the forward position?
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I don't recall how exactly, but you can jump a wire out and get it started in gear in a pinch just like any other outboard.
 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Yesterday I was able to get all of the stringers completely glassed. Boy was I kidding myself when I thought this was not gonna be that difficult. I will tell you a couple things that I learned.

Doing the 2 layers was the way to go. I did not realize that the 1708 the ends like to stick up. So I saves some grinding. Not sure if the up and over was easier then tabbing and then putting one layer over the top, but this bad boy is strong now. a lot less flex. I believe that I may run into a problem when going to put the cap on as well. Somehow the back of the gunwales are 1" in from where I started. Well see but I guess thats better then being out 1"

Anyway here are some pics.

First is the outside stringers. I did the 2 layers at the same time. Or wet on wet as they would call it.




This is the 4 center stringers, I only did single layer of 1708. I regret that now because I had to grind all the little dubs off and I did not change when getting out the grinder and how to itch. Good thing I wore the mask.





This is the everything completed

 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

WOG if you see this, Did I read somewhere that you have plans to build a gantry I Need to flip the hull and I dont have anyone to help me. I built one before but not sure that would handle the boat now. If you do if you can send me a PM with those I would appreciate it.

Happy 4th Guys and Gals.
 
Woodonglass

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Of all the gantrys posted on iBoats, this is my favorite. No Plans, but I think you could build one similar from this pic. Looks like 12 2x6's some plywood and couple dozen bolts and you'd have one built in a day.

Gantry-1.jpg
 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Awesome, thanks I think I can build one from that pic to....

Your awesome once again
 
Woodonglass

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Tip: If you put Cheap metal Flashing between the layers on the "Beam" of the Gantry, It will increase it's lateral Load Strength 3 fold. On a 8ft span it will lift a ton with no flex.
 
Woodonglass

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Yeah, sold at Lowe's in the roofing dept...
images
 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

Lets talk boat flipping or hull turning. Anyone that sees this and has insight please chime in. A couple things that need to be kept in mind for doing this.

Has to Be done with Minimal people! I would say 2 at most and 3 if extremely distraught. Would prefer to do this individually.

I will have a tree and a home made gantry much like the one posted on the previous page. I will not have a chain hoist but do have large ratchet straps. I have an engine hoist if needed.

I do not want to have to build some big huge extravagant wood frame for it to roll on (Like on you tube.) Bow eye and stern eyes are all installed, If I need to add a different one I can.

So I ideas on best way to do this please be as detailed as possible again the gantry will look identicle to the the one previous.

Here is where Im at with my idea:

I am going to use the port or stern eye and attach a quick link or anchor shackle to it. Then use a ratchet strap to raise the stern up.Should bring the boat up on its side. Im thinking of using the hoist to lift up the bow. This should for the most part put the boat completely on its side correct?

Then I could somehow figure out how to slowly lower the ratchet strap, after I have side kicked out a little, If that makes sense?

Also what about just using the tree and an engine hoist, do you think it be done with just those two? Again needs to be done with 2 at most but prefer 1.

Thanks in advance for all the advanced help. And I will have full video of the whole thing so It can be used for future I boaters with limited amount of large friends.
 
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sevanseriesta

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Re: "Master Bait'R" Restore Thread

So now I understand why no one really has any pics of the boat flips. It really is a lot easier then it looks. I did have one other person help me. Now my boat is only 18' long so I am sure that larger boats are more trouble.

We took the boat off the trailer and unloaded it in the grass. To do this all I did was pull on the stern eyes and when it got about half off. We lifted the front up and pulled out the trailer. Then she was sitting on the grass. The only thing that I added to the hull were 3 2x2's from port to star.

Then my neighbor saw what was going on, he decided to come over and help so we lifted the hull up sideways to see how heavy she was. It went up pretty easy, so as he held it upright I went the the otherside to catch. He then came over and we lowered it down on the 2 cradles I made to support the hull earlier in the rebuild process. So here are some pics. I have also took pics of the damage to the hull so I can compare what it looks like after I get done.

Here is what she is sitting on



Here she is flipped. I don't have any pics of her coming off the trailer and upright.



And here are the some of the damage.





 
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