My 16 Foot Super Sport

[GA_Boater]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Otte - that piece of wood in the bow that your wife is helping with is the first part hung from the ceiling by Starcraft. Then they build the boat around it. You're lucky, that's the dash in a closed bow and virtually impossible to get out.

On your controller wiring, I think you can buy a new replacement from CDI or BRP. At least the controller to motor part anyway.

The two AL strips are used to tie the deck pieces together. You screw or rivet to them so the deck sections flex as a unit. They go back in.

On the transom - SC used three pieces, the main transom and two upper ends. Some folk make a one piece and some duplicate the original SC set-up.

The transom piece that broke in two - Most the guys think that is an add-on by owners to thicken the transom or to strengthen a rotting transom. Some use a chunk of AL sheet that won't rot since it's exposed to water any time you're boating.

And finally - those windshield bolts are by Taylor Made, 4 for $10-$12 on the web. Remind me when you are getting close to needing them and I'll dig up my bookmarks for them. I have of bookmarks for every I thing I need to rebuild mine when I start, but I saved them with out organizing them and I keep adding.

Merry Christmas to you and yours, Otte.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

thanks GA. Helpful stuff. Glad to hear I am not a moron on the little piece of wood in the bow but sorry to hear everyone else struggles in the same way.

All most forgot.... How did you folks deal with trim that as cut for a gunwale add on when you did not put the add on back. Did you weld/screw in an AL piece back?

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

If you go with 3/4 inch floor/deck and new carpet...the stern doors that hide the gas tanks, battery.. etc...those doors will need to be slightly shorter in height...
Most Hardware Stores will not carry rivets long enough for 3/4 inch....try Fastenal...
When I did my boat with 3/4 inch floor...I took out the spaces under the aluminum channel the stern doors slide on...mistake...don't do it that way...by doing it that way ..channel acts like a small dam and a pool of
water forms in front of the doors when it rains.
The aluminum strips between floor/deck sections I discarded...I cut extra pieces of 3/4 inch plywood and overlapped on the underside of the floor...also used extra pieces where my pedestal seats where going...did a lot
of trial fitting, checking seat placement, making sure pedestal bases were not directly over a rib if they were near the sides of the boat...after I new exactly where the seats/pedestal bases where going...I put T-nuts on the underside of the deck....found out later they are available in stainless steel and used stainless steel bolts to hold the bases to the deck
The vinyl on the vinyl covered panels are held on with staples...you can find stainless steel 3/8 inch staples at most Hardware stores
Some people don't want a heavy floor/deck in their boat...I am over 250lbs...with pedestal seats....I am very glad I went with 3/4 inch

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

While the deck is out...check the bow for small leaks...seems like the bottom of the "V" at the bow where the aluminum overlaps is a popular spot to leak...Mine had a slow leak there... tightened all the rivets..that did not stop the
leak...looked closer...the factory sealant was hard and there was a gap in the sealant...would not flow..would not close up the gap when the rivets where tightened...used JB Weld..(did not know about Gluvit & this excellent web site then)..
solved the leak...I cleaned up/sanded the aluminum before I used the JB Weld...

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

thanks GA. Helpful stuff. Glad to hear I am not a moron on the little piece of wood in the bow but sorry to hear everyone else struggles in the same way.

All most forgot.... How did you folks deal with trim that as cut for a gunwale add on when you did not put the add on back. Did you weld/screw in an AL piece back?

I'm guessing you're referring to the ply on the transom that broke in two (post 40, pic #3)? I haven't replaced mine yet, but for example Jasonoutside used a piece of 3/8" or 1/4" aluminum cut using the old ply as a rough template and bolted/screwed through the transom with lots of 3M 5200 to seal the holes. You don't need anything under the AL, just the holes. He left the piece bare or used Shark Hide on it, I don't remember off-hand. I'm sure someone will pop in if I'm wrong - prob even if I'm right. LOL

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

While the deck is out...check the bow for small leaks...seems like the bottom of the "V" at the bow where the aluminum overlaps is a popular spot to leak...Mine had a slow leak there... tightened all the rivets..that did not stop the
leak...looked closer...the factory sealant was hard and there was a gap in the sealant...would not flow..would not close up the gap when the rivets where tightened...used JB Weld..(did not know about Gluvit & this excellent web site then)..
solved the leak...I cleaned up/sanded the aluminum before I used the JB Weld...

And pic #4 showed you did something right, SC. Nice fishy.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

The two AL strips are used to tie the deck pieces together. You screw or rivet to them so the deck sections flex as a unit. They go back in.

On the transom - SC used three pieces, the main transom and two upper ends. Some folk make a one piece and some duplicate the original SC set-up.

The transom piece that broke in two - Most the guys think that is an add-on by owners to thicken the transom or to strengthen a rotting transom. Some use a chunk of AL sheet that won't rot since it's exposed to water any time you're boating.

To elaborate on GA's points:

Whoever replaced my deck previously used some thicker stock for those floor board joiner pieces. Worked out nice. Lowes/Home Depot have a decent selection of aluminum flat stock if you wanted to beef yours up.

I'd recommend making your new one all one piece.

On both my SC restores, I eliminated that piece. In my opinion it serves no purpose (new boats don't have it, glass boats don't have it) and only serves to eventually compress, rot, and then leak through the fasteners. Oooh and it can trap water against the metal and cause corrosion.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

SC 16 - I love that boat. Wicked cool lights in the boat. Two questions.
1. Did you use textured or metal fleck paint on your gunwales? It looks like it from the pictures. Nice idea.
2. Did you use oak for your dash? I like the look and I am thinking along those lines. I am considering oak or cedar for their ability to hold up to the weather.

GA - nope I was referring to the small decorative piece under the bow. That is a bugger to get out. I am thinking about something different for the back "outside" transom piece. I assumed that piece was to allow the bolts to bite into something other than the actual hull of the boat. I have read that some of you contacted your local metal shops. I plan on looking in to that as an alternative to plywood back there.

EZ - Good advice. I am going to look into that idea. I wonder if I did aluminum if I could beef up the transom, give the bolts something to bite into and avoid the rot. Most of this idea will depend on cost.

I love the ideas guys. Keep them coming!

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Can't wait to scrub the boat tomorrow.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

GA - nope I was referring to the small decorative piece under the bow. That is a bugger to get out. I am thinking about something different for the back "outside" transom piece. I assumed that piece was to allow the bolts to bite into something other than the actual hull of the boat. I have read that some of you contacted your local metal shops. I plan on looking in to that as an alternative to plywood back there.

One of the SS re-builders will have to weigh in on that front piece, Otte. I'm with EZ on the transom add-on. I don't think it's needed.

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

SC 16 - I love that boat. Wicked cool lights in the boat. Two questions.
1. Did you use textured or metal fleck paint on your gunwales? It looks like it from the pictures. Nice idea.
2. Did you use oak for your dash? I like the look and I am thinking along those lines. I am considering oak or cedar for their ability to hold up to the weather.

GA - nope I was referring to the small decorative piece under the bow. That is a bugger to get out. I am thinking about something different for the back "outside" transom piece. I assumed that piece was to allow the bolts to bite into something other than the actual hull of the boat. I have read that some of you contacted your local metal shops. I plan on looking in to that as an alternative to plywood back there.



EZ - Good advice. I am going to look into that idea. I wonder if I did aluminum if I could beef up the transom, give the bolts something to bite into and avoid the rot. Most of this idea will depend on cost.

I love the ideas guys. Keep them coming!

SC 16- 1. That blue texture under the side-rails is blue textured vinyl glued to the hull...I think it might be original to the boat...boat is 1971
2. Used hardwood for dash...got it at a local woodworking store...liked the grain...don't know if its oak...the original dash was vinyl over plywood...the vinyl had a wood-grain pattern on it
I replaced the original windshield on boat...use to have your style windshield with those strange fasteners/tabs to hold down the windshield...was going to replace the original glass with lexan when I ran across someone
on CL selling a windshield off a late 70'S Starcraft SS...worked out great on my 1971...some of those pics are with the old glass and some with the new...

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

One of the SS re-builders will have to weigh in on that front piece, Otte. I'm with EZ on the transom add-on. I don't think it's needed.

Happy Holidays.........

Consider:

I used 1/4" starboard material as a transom backer, same stuff new boats use for mounting items.

If the wood piece in the bow is the fascia piece, it is a keystone piece

Stick with 1/2" for the flooring and rivet in lateral "nailers" at the seams

Pitch the sliding doors in the back and get creative

Used 3/4" marine play for dash panels, coated in Gluvit, primed with Kilz, finished with Rusto enamel, then veneered with Formica

Built custom shelves under each console

 

[STARCRAFT16SS]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Hi Otte...what year is your boat...just curious...here is a pic from a 1971 brochure from the efforts of of North Beach and Motorpsykler
2nd pic is from a 1970 brochure...thanks to Bunky & Huron Angler

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Here is the boat power washed, scrubbed, rinsed and power washed again. Whew - It was dirty. It is still stained but clean of grease and dirt. Here are two pictures of the cleaned up boat.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I thought it was a 1976/78 but now I think it is a 1971. I even have the little black piece on the starboard side of the boat. Same blue color... for now and the same bow rail.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Thanks for the ideas Starman. Happy Holidays to you too. Where did you get the starboard material? How much did it run you? It is the facia piece and I finally got it out today. Only had two bolts on the port side so this side was not as tough as the starboard side. I think I am going to the 3/4 on the floor to beef it up. I am no tiny at 215 and my friends are even bigger. I live in the land of the huge... dutch people in West Michigan are big people. Six foot, 200 pounders are considered average here.

I have the doors but no sliders on the floor. I have already decided to go a different route on the doors. I like the curtain idea that hides the junk but allows for flexibility in stuff pushing against the curtain.

Do you have a picture of those console shelves. That sounds like an interesting idea.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

For the Starboard, Google "Taco marine lumber". I used 1/4" for my dash panels. It's great stuff.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I found out why the boat took on water. I noticed a hole in the hull before but did not think it went through. Today, after cleaning and putting the boat back in the garage, I noticed a steady stream of water coming from the hole. Now I need to figure out a solution. Do I pop rivet the hole, use JB Weld or a different solution? I should say the hole leads into a rib so I can only get at it from the bottom side of the hull. Thoughts?

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

You have a pic, Otte?

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I found out why the boat took on water. I noticed a hole in the hull before but did not think it went through. Today, after cleaning and putting the boat back in the garage, I noticed a steady stream of water coming from the hole. Now I need to figure out a solution. Do I pop rivet the hole, use JB Weld or a different solution? I should say the hole leads into a rib so I can only get at it from the bottom side of the hull. Thoughts?

measure the location of the hole and mark the inside area location

if not inside a rib, get some aluminum for patching, if inside, get some filler like silicone II

A rivet and JB from the outside is something I would do to fill the void, then attack from inside as a redundancy