My 16 Foot Super Sport

[talltx]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I seem to remember seeing something like that in some big boat restos like Islanders or Chieftains where you can build refrigerator sized boxed. Of course I can't remember where.

I saw it too. check seven_magnum's thread titled....Well I Did It...It's a SC Islander. Hope this helps. May not be the one you're talking about but should give ya an idea of what it could look like.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Are you guys thinking of this? http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/Picture012.jpg If so, yeah that's from a new Islander. That wasn't what I was thinking of but it's cool nonetheless.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Are you guys thinking of this? http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/Picture012.jpg If so, yeah that's from a new Islander. That wasn't what I was thinking of but it's cool nonetheless.

That is cool. Very creative. Hmmmm

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I am trying to figure out, if I end up going with pedestals, what pedestals will handle speeds faster than 5 mph? There are AD and other letters by the pedestals but I can't figure out what they mean with regard to pedestal strength. iboat gurus powers unite... form of answers. thanks in advance

 

[CheapboatKev]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I am trying to figure out, if I end up going with pedestals, what pedestals will handle speeds faster than 5 mph? There are AD and other letters by the pedestals but I can't figure out what they mean with regard to pedestal strength. iboat gurus powers unite... form of answers. thanks in advance

Properly bolted and secured, they would handle anything you can throw at em..
Are you afraid of them ripping out of the deck when you gun it?

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I don't know what I am concerned about really. I just know there are some that are meant for slower speeds. I am guessing the rating is due to post thickness.

Properly bolted and secured, they would handle anything you can throw at em..
Are you afraid of them ripping out of the deck when you gun it?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Just don't get those ****ty black sheet metal ones and you'll be fine.

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

I am trying to figure out, if I end up going with pedestals, what pedestals will handle speeds faster than 5 mph? There are AD and other letters by the pedestals but I can't figure out what they mean with regard to pedestal strength. iboat gurus powers unite... form of answers. thanks in advance

Otte, options are many.

The reason I chose the Springfield peds for the main cockpit, at the consoles is because they were low
enough as discussed earlier, they are legal and safe, and never need to be removed, versus the 238 Models
where the stem can be removed from the base, but Swiveleze 238's have been known to get stuck.
Had those in my 2000 Starcraft and they were a pain

All the websites grade out each hardware as CLASS, regarding what MPH they are rated for.

For the casting deck, I use the 5 mph models because that is there purpose, plus they remove
easily when not needed, and the bases are flush mounted, and the stem screws in and locks.

I do have an additional 2 of these mounted in rear cockpit for trolling(under 5mph) where you
can rest your feet on the aft deck, enjoy a beer, and wait for a bite.

Passengers do not ride these underway, they either use the bow seating or removeable aft jumpers
that power Velco to the aft deck.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

That is great information Starman (and EZ to a lesser extent )but let me ask my question in a different way. What do the letters (AC etc...) classification stand for as I continue to look for good deals on pedestals? So what am I looking for, regarding class, for pedestals that can handle WOT speeds? I just want to make sure that I know what I am getting before I purchase this time.

Otte, options are many.

The reason I chose the Springfield peds for the main cockpit, at the consoles is because they were low
enough as discussed earlier, they are legal and safe, and never need to be removed, versus the 238 Models
where the stem can be removed from the base, but Swiveleze 238's have been known to get stuck.
Had those in my 2000 Starcraft and they were a pain

All the websites grade out each hardware as CLASS, regarding what MPH they are rated for.

For the casting deck, I use the 5 mph models because that is there purpose, plus they remove
easily when not needed, and the bases are flush mounted, and the stem screws in and locks.

I do have an additional 2 of these mounted in rear cockpit for trolling(under 5mph) where you
can rest your feet on the aft deck, enjoy a beer, and wait for a bite.

Passengers do not ride these underway, they either use the bow seating or removeable aft jumpers
that power Velco to the aft deck.

On a different note. I have the floor cut and fitted and I am moving on with putting plywood re-enforcement under the deck for seats and the joints. In the doubled ply spots I have 1.25" of wood to attach seats and bow pieces. I have the AL strapping pieces that were original (I think my deck was either original, at least in sections, or second generation for the boat) that went across the underside of deck seams that I will substitute with plywood joiners at the seams. I believe that the plywood joiners will give a bit more support at the deck seams than the thin AL straps. I will be re-using the strapping in different places on the boat as angle or re-enforce some new items/ideas I have in my head. This process takes a bit and I really under estimated how long this would take me. At best I am a rough carpenter and this aspect of the project pushes my experience and skill a bit.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Yes the carpentry is tough. My bow deck was a real pain. And I get to do it again :facepalm: but at least I'll have real good templates the 2nd time.

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

It is good to know that I am in good company on what I perceive is tough carpentry. I had good templates to start with so I had a one shot and done cut job it just made me slow down and think. The old plywood sheets were all a smidge wider than each of the sheets I was using so I was a full .5 inches short when I got to the front, last in my fabrication order, piece. So I ended up cutting the front twice but used the first piece as an under deck re-enforcement.

Another item I found interesting that the previous deck, and now my current deck, went as far as the beginning of the ribs up on the side and left a gap around the edge. At first I was POed at myself for not looking or thinking about going all the way to the hull edge. But as I worked more on the floor I thought that it was a decent outcome even if it was an oversight or design flaw. Water that gets on the deck surface from rain or splashing can escape to the underneath without having to go all the way to the stern bilge area before getting under the deck. We have bunk sides and bow areas on the SS that cover up the edge like a floor molding any way so no biggie on appearance. Just interesting things I have seen during the process.

Can I ask why you have to redo? Is this something I should look for and avoid by learning from your mistake or mishap?

Yes the carpentry is tough. My bow deck was a real pain. And I get to do it again :facepalm: but at least I'll have real good templates the 2nd time.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Can I ask why you have to redo? Is this something I should look for and avoid by learning from your mistake or mishap?

It was too weak around the hatches and the wood has cracked in multiple places. It's been shored up from underneath with some 2x4's but that's just a temporary solution. I'll need to rebuild with thicker wood and better bracing. The deck cracked at the red lines: http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2539-1.jpg What you need to take into account, which I didn't, is the tremendous force a 200+ pound man stepping into your boat from the dock with one foot places on a given area. A thin strip of 1/2" ply isn't going to cut it.

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Otte, the cutaways at the ribs(chine-line) outer edges are because of the hull curvature forming the V/keel

Here is your ABYC link for seating codes. Basically, locking mechanism for high speed.

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/userfiles/file/Catalog/20011 Catalog/11_2011AttCatalog_Pedestals.pdf

In runabouts, that is also why you see back to back jumpers on a box, which provides
similar results to a free standing pedestal, and why you should NOT use a single box at the helm.

As far as bow deck construction, think basic rough stick-frame. The quandry does come into play for
hatches because of the need to maximize storage space beneath them.

Somewhere in my resto thread are some ideas, and what I did, but basically, the outer perimiter
of the decking around the hatches were bolstered using 1/8" SS strips 3" wide that incorporate
the original "flanges" and inner floor.

I will edit this post with a picture

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

"In runabouts, that is also why you see back to back jumpers on a box, which provides
similar results to a free standing pedestal, and why you should NOT use a single box at the helm."

Now that makes sense. Maybe others were saying the same thing but they way you said it makes sense to me now. So.... if a box is built for seats it should be at or close to the size of the back to back jumper boxes.

I am going to re look at those front hatch construction ideas.

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Its more about how a seat is attached to a single box when not having a "back wall"

original SS16 had the back to back jumpers, some resto's here retained them, some went modern
with pedestal, as they provide flexibility and space

Building a box may cost more in difference versus returning your old pedestals for new ones

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

What's your plan? 3/4 or you going to double it to 1.5? Another plan?

It was too weak around the hatches and the wood has cracked in multiple places. It's been shored up from underneath with some 2x4's but that's just a temporary solution. I'll need to rebuild with thicker wood and better bracing. The deck cracked at the red lines: http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2539-1.jpg What you need to take into account, which I didn't, is the tremendous force a 200+ pound man stepping into your boat from the dock with one foot places on a given area. A thin strip of 1/2" ply isn't going to cut it.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

What's your plan? 3/4 or you going to double it to 1.5? Another plan?

Depends on what strikes my fancy at the time. Maybe 5/8" if I can find it. Whatever it is, the hatches will be better positioned and braced. Probably similar to Starman's layout.

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Be it on my own boats, or as a guest on others, I always make sure
I don't step/stand directly on a hatch lid, and I am sure this is common to all
of us.

On my bow modification, I utilized some of the bow well by adding the front wall
extension, and that provided additional strength. Also, by closing off the side
storage portals in favor of topside hatches, the extension pieces added to the voids
added more strength, as did doing the decking in 2 pieces versus 3.

I am sure there are better ways, but it worked OK so far

 

[Starman8]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Otte, sent you a PM a set of 4 seat hardware.....................steal of a price

 

[Otte]

Re: My 16 Foot Super Sport

Got it and it was deleted by author... sold?

Otte, sent you a PM a set of 4 seat hardware.....................steal of a price