Exactly if supplying 12 v direct from battery wouldn’t matter if there are upstream voltage issuesBut now he says he has no spark with or without the jumper cable. That jumper would bypass any problem from the R terminal, wouldn't it? I'm thinking he may have multiple issues. Unless possibly the jumper was not making good contact this time. Are we sure there is 12V on the coil terminal itself with the jumper in place, not just on one of the wire terminals.
Chaffing on wire from points to negative side of coil can do thisWondering if something is intermittently shorting to ground the coil neg. Open the points and check for continuity to ground from the coil neg.
Yes start with correct wires...I bet you can take needle nose pliers and stretch the connections so they firmly fit. Didn’t u just replace all this? Start by zeroing the mileage with wear otherwise you are chasing garbageHey, the coil wire had slipped lose. It fired right up with the 12 volt jumper again.
My distributor wires slip off frequently causing skipping. I put nylon ties on them but it does not seem like I should need to do that. Wrong wires?
R terminal and coil sounds right but I can’t figure how to trace or fix it (just confusing) that wire goes from the negative coil? to the solenoid at the starter or the other solenoid. I don’t know which wire I’m looking at and I don’t think there are any relays between them?
The wires and full tune up was done almost a year ago by my mechanic. The distributor cap plug wires started slipping off very soon. I used the nylon ties and that seemed to help but the tie came off of the coil wire, it unplugged itself that fast!Yes start with correct wires...I bet you can take needle nose pliers and stretch the connections so they firmly fit. Didn’t u just replace all this? Start by zeroing the mileage with wear otherwise you are chasing garbage
there are no relays In The harness. Start with first things first. If the plug wires fall off fix that first. I would suspect this is part of your intermittent spark issue . Rule this out.The wires and full tune up was done almost a year ago by my mechanic. The distributor cap plug wires started slipping off very soon. I used the nylon ties and that seemed to help but the tie came off of the coil wire, it unplugged itself that fast!
I just don’t know how to fix that R wire deal! No relays in that harness I’m pretty sure.
Did this not seem like relevant information before now?The distributor cap plug wires started slipping off very soon. I used the nylon ties and that seemed to help but the tie came off of the coil wire, it unplugged itself that fast!
Correct, was an easy fix!Did this not seem like relevant information before now?![]()
I’m thinking the R terminal is the major red wire on the starter but I’ll look fir the R on it.Multiple issues! Can you find the "R" terminal on your starter--I think it will be marked as such right on the plastic on the starter. If so, just run a jumper from the "R" terminal to the plus terminal of the coil and see what happens. (Without the previous jumper from the battery.)
NoI’m thinking the R terminal is the major red wire on the starter but I’ll look fir the R on it.
Thanks!
It's hard to say for sure, but if we compare this picture with Glenn's, it appears that his "R" terminal is empty. I don't even see a hex nut on there that would have held a ring terminal.No
that is the B terminal
the s terminal is the one that the comes from the starter pilot relay
the R teminal is opposite side of the s terminal
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agreed, looks like there is no wire coming off the R terminalIt's hard to say for sure, but if we compare this picture with Glenn's, it appears that his "R" terminal is empty. I don't even see a hex nut on there that would have held a ring terminal.
Whoops. Everyone forgot that this is a 170. The 12v coil voltage is supplied by the slave solenoid, not directly by the starter.no, the boat uses a 1.5 ohm coil requiring a balast resistor for running and gets full 12 volts when cranking via the I/R terminal on the starter. that is the way the boat is wired.
Now the colors make sense! If the Pur/Yel wire looks good between the coil positive and the slave solenoid, then run a jumper between those two points just to make sure there's not a bad spot somewhere you can't see. If the engine still won't start there must be something wrong with the solenoid, right?Whoops. Everyone forgot that this is a 170. The 12v coil voltage is supplied by the slave solenoid, not directly by the starter.