No water discharge from port 1967 33hp evinrude

[Old man Boat]

Thank you Racerone.
I have the parts catalog and service manual. Looked to see any place that would allow water to squirt out-no luck. The exploded view shows a lot of work to remove power head, as does the steps in the service manual. I’m sure it’s not as bad as it appears on this motor vs a newer 90+ hp. I can only believe it has something to do with the water spray at the top by the shift rod. It ran very hot (275° on upper block) with hardly any water coming out mid port. I felt the temp at the exhaust by the prop today and it wasn’t even warm. Thanks again

 

[racerone]

These motors are easy to work on !!

 

[kdiddle]

@Old man Boat - have the 1964 version of that engine. As was already mentioned there is def no thermostat and I'm not aware of a plug anywhere that can be checked. In my experience, my engine puts out a tremendous spray of water out that exhaust port above the water line, so I'd assume if you're not seeing significant water spray, something is definitely amiss.

Personally, I'd possibly try spinning the lower unit with a power drill in a bucket of water and make sure you're getting water flow out of the water pump. If yes, think that pulling the powerhead is the next step to investigate. Unless your engine is different in some way, I believe you have to completely remove the powerhead (starter/generator first, followed by carb, lower unit, then powerhead, after which you can remove/inspect the exhaust cover). I've taken my powerhead off probably 5 times now, so I'm pretty sure I can do it in my sleep at this point...let me know if you have any questions about the process.

One thing to check when reassembling is ensuring the grommet where the water tube goes into the water pump housing isn't folded over and blocking the water flow. I had my engine overheat in the past after water pump replacement and I'm pretty sure that's what my problem was...

 

[Old man Boat]

Is it possible to drop the exhaust housing from the steering bracket and power head without taking power head off? Maybe the plate gasket(s) are broken (#96) allowing water to squirt out over/by the shift rod..

 

[kdiddle]

I'm not sure what correlation the exhaust/powerhead has with the steering bracket. But in my experience, you can't get the exhaust cover off without removing the powerhead entirely. As I recall, there is a single bolt that you can't get to due to the lower cowl being in the way (but someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong)

 

[racerone]

No short cuts.----It is a simple job ( in my opinion ) to remove the powerhead in order to inspect cooling system.

 

[F_R]

No fear, the powerhead is easy to remove.

 

[Old man Boat]

Question. Is the o-ring (#57) supposed to go above impeller housing (3)? There are 3 vertical fingers that prevent the o-ring from seating onto the flat upper surface, of the upper impeller housing. If it was flat, what purpose will it serve just sitting loosely on the top of the housing does nothing. My buddy and I put it between impeller and upper housing (3) and I believe that is what caused my issue of low water flow since there is now a gap the thickness of the o-ring (just under 1/8”) that will allow water to just flow over impeller blades instead of pumping, giving almost no flow (which is what I experienced). Before I put it back together, where EXACTLY does this o-ring go? #57 is described as “O-ring, driveshaft.” Thank you to all

 

[racerone]

I think that o-ring fits in the groove of the driveshaft.---Just below the upper spline.----It seals the crankshaft spline and driveshaft spline.----Keeps the crankshaft spline from rusting out !!----Very important part.----And that o-riing has nothing to do with the operation of the water pump !

 

[Old man Boat]

Ok. That’s possible, but I didn’t remove an old one from there, not that it didn’t bust/fall off years ago. I lifted the lower impeller plate (5) and there is a groove in the cast, maybe the o-ring goes between cast and #5?
Below: Top of impeller housing. Arrows point to “vertical fingers” that prevent o-ring from siting flush.

 

[racerone]

Sorry if you mis-understand !----The o-ring fits in the groove at the top of the driveshaft.

 

[Old man Boat]

I understand. And I mentioned there wasn’t an o-ring there when I took it off. Your theory makes sense if you put the pieces together as latex out in he schematic.

 

[Old man Boat]

Laid out... not latex (stupid iPhone!).

 

[racerone]

People leave that o-ring out because they simply do not know what they are working on !!

 

[Old man Boat]

I’m going to place the o-ring on spline grove, put together and try tomorrow. Can’t wait!

 

[racerone]

Are you using factory original parts in your repairs ?

 

[Old man Boat]

Yes

 

[Old man Boat]

Ok. Pump works. Placed O-ring below upper spline. Now, there is a lot of “whipped “ lower unit oil floating on the water. I replaced the drive shaft seal (WITH a #313284). I guessing something is amiss with that seal. If lower unit oil just leaked out, it would be the same color as when it went in. Since it’s light brown and foamy looking, I’m guessing it’s coming from around the drive shaft and being pulled into the impeller and being whipped before it’s forced thru the motor and exhausted.
pic is of drained tank

 

[racerone]

Once again some folks here will tell you that this ---" foamy looking " ---goop is normal for this motor.------What you are looking at is technology from 70 years ago.----I see a nice " expensive to own " 4 stroke outboard in your future.

 

[F_R]

Relax, it's absolutely normal. Yes it is normal when running in a tank. It is the oil that you put in the gas. 100% of that oil goes through the engine. Part of it is burned (makes smoke) and the rest goes out the exhaust, along with the other combustion byproducts. When discharged into the exhaust, it emulsifies with the spent cooling water and forms that froth.

Next question is, what about all that pollution? Thankfully, it will be much cleaner when running on a boat, on the lake, where it was designed to operate. But it still is 1960's technology.