O'Day Mariner Sailboat Restoration

[jigngrub]

I like this bad boy for foam removal:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-24-in-Wrecking-Bar-DWHT55129/202985576
Breaks out big chunks for rapid removal.

 

[tpenfield]

I like this bad boy for foam removal:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-24-in-Wrecking-Bar-DWHT55129/202985576
Breaks out big chunks for rapid removal.

Yes, I have something like that (except it is green ) . . . I am hoping that the foam has shrunken and or deteriorated enough that it does not put up much of a fight.

 

[alldodge]

Foam removal :facepalm: sure hate that stuff

Looks like a nice project

 

[tpenfield]

Foam removal :facepalm: sure hate that stuff

Looks like a nice project

Thanks AD. I am hoping the resto work is a lot easier than the powerboat.

 

[tpenfield]

UPDATE:

I power washed the topsides and then removed the boat from the trailer. The water from the power washing was chalky white, so it looks like the boat really needs to be re-coated. Getting the boat off of the trailer was a bit tricky, but it is done.

My plan was to lift the boat with my chain hoist so that I could pull the trailer out from underneath it and then set it on boat stands. Here is the boat lifted by the hoist and straps. The boat wanted to tilt forward the entire time, so I inched the trailer out a few feet at a time and then supported the stern with boat stands until I was able to get another set of stands in near the bow.




I kept the straps about 6 feet apart at the hull, but I had a center lifting point with the hoist.



There are not very good lifting points on a sailboat, since the hulls are thin and not well supported as compared to power boats. I used the transom to provide a solid lifting point at the stern.





The v-berth structure provides some good lifting points in the bow.



Now I can get good access to the underside of the hull as well as work on the trailer. I plan to do all of the 'below water line' work while the boat is off the trailer, then do the rest after I put the boat back on the trailer.

I'll be refurbishing the keel (Centerboard) and applying barrier coat and anti-fouling paint on the hull bottom while the boat is on the stands.

Next steps are to 'drop' the keel and get started sanding the hull bottom.

 

[jigngrub]

Everything looks real good Ted, and I love it when a plan comes together!

 

[Scott Danforth]

looking good. I keep thinking you could mount a few electric drive units like http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/ENGINE-MOUNT-160-SALTWATER/ on the back and get rid of the outboard mount.

 

[tpenfield]

looking good. I keep thinking you could mount a few electric drive units like http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Produc...160-SALTWATER/ on the back and get rid of the outboard mount.

They look cool, but quite pricey.

Actually, I checked on the Mariner Association web site and most folks are using long shaft outboards to get the prop at a good depth. The engine mount is at 15" above the waterline, but usually a long shaft OB is better since sailboats are light in the stern, and the transom comes out of the water a bit as you go over waves.

I have been scouring CL for something in the 3-4 HP range with long shaft (20")

 

[tpenfield]

Everything looks real good Ted, and I love it when a plan comes together!

I used the same chain hoist setup to take the engine out of my Formula 242. :thumb:

The entire sailboat does not weigh much more that the Merc 454 engine The fully rigged weight of the sailboat is about 1400 lbs. Without the rigging, etc. it is probably closer to 1250 lbs.

 

[Scott Danforth]

A bunch for sale right now on CL

4.5's https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=4.5hp+outboard+long+shaft+site:craigslist.org
4's https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=4hp+outboard+long+shaft+site:craigslist.org
3.5's https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=3.5hp+outboard+long+shaft+site:craigslist.org
3's https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=3hp+outboard+long+shaft+site:craigslist.org
Merc 3's http://nh.craigslist.org/boa/5207243140.html (only found one, and its in your corner of the country)

 

[tpenfield]

Scott,

I like your search method. I have been using the CL search directly and searchtempest, but you seem to be getting better results with Google. :thumb:

 

[Scott Danforth]

yes, simply type in 4.5hp outboard long shaft site:craigslist.org and it pulls them all up on craigslist

if you did site:ebay.com, it would search all of ebay or site:iboats.com and it would search all of iboats

 

[tpenfield]

Quick Update:

I picked up a 1980 Johnson 4.5 HP long shaft motor yesterday.





It has an internal fuel tank, which I wanted to have for this boat. This engine is about 20 lbs lighter than my Mercury 7.5. Although I will say that I like the mechanical design of the Merc much better.

This should have plenty of power to move the boat at hull speed. I gave it a quick test run last night, and probably will run it some more before laying it up for winter. I think it needs a little tuning, etc.

 

[tpenfield]

UPDATE:

I removed the keel from the boat today. It is held in with a 1/2" bolt at the forward pivot point and then has a cable attached to the rear portion for raising and lowering. The keel is made of iron/steel and tends to rust over its lifetime, which is approaching 40 years. My plan is to refinish the keel and encase it in epoxy & fiberglass so it will last in the salt water and provide good sailing performance.

I used the dolly that I made a few years ago for my 454 engine rebuild. I added a couple of right angle uprights that will guide the keel down from the keel trunk and hold it during restoration. Here is the dolly in place under the keel.


I used a scissor jack to take the weight off of the pivot bolt inside the cabin. I was able to remove the bolt fairly easily. My original plan was to use the scissor jack to lower the keel, but that did not work out too well.

So, I used my 10,000 lb cargo ratchet strap. The keel weights about 170-200 lbs, so not a big deal for the strap. My Catalina 22 had a 500 lb. keel, which I removed and refinished about 12 years ago. Being a lot heavier than this keel, it was more challenging to handle.



I cut the keel cable, as that will be replaced with the restoration. Then I rolled the keel out from under the boat. Here is the keel on the dolly. You can see the 'water line' in the rust pattern. When the keel is fully raised, it is tucked into the hull and flush with the hull bottom. So the lower 1/2 of the keel stays in the water.



There was not much metal flake on the keel, and for 40 years of age it looked really good. Removing the rust and prepping the keel should be fairly easy based on its condition.

The pivot hole where the bushing goes was in great shape !!! Looks almost new The bushing itself was in great shape too . .



The hole for the keel cable also looks good.


Next steps will be to grind down the rust and prep it for epoxy and encapsulation. While the keel is out, I will also prep the hull bottom for barrier coat and anti-fouling paint.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would have it sand blasted vs attacking it with a grinder

 

[tpenfield]

I would have it sand blasted vs attacking it with a grinder

Good advice, Scott . I used to have sandblasting equipment but I am not sure where it is. I may look for some local shops that could do it for me.

In fairing the keel after it is cleaned up, there seems to be 2 schools of thought on the process

1 being to start with a rust preventitive paint, like POR15, then go to thickened epoxy.

2 being start with thickened epoxy then go with barrier coat paint .

I think that I am favoring the #2 approach.

Comments and thoughts welcome.

 

[alldodge]

This article covers the best process of how to paint steel
http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/save-steel

 

[Scott Danforth]

I can not in good conscious recommend POR15 anymore

 

[tpenfield]

Quick Update:

I did an initial pass over the keel with my angle grinder w/ wire wheel attachment. The keel looked really good. So I decided not to go the sand blasting route and have been using grinding and chemicals to remove/dissolve the rust.

I also found that the keel still has some paint on it that is very robust. I originally thought that it was plating of some sort, but it turned out to be paint. I have done a few passes with acetone and paint stripper to get down to bare metal. The paint is really hanging in there . . . probably explains why the keel is in such decent shape versus what you typically see coming out of boats like this. :thumb:

Here are a couple pictures of the keel with paint stripper applied.





Once I am satisfied with the keel, I think that I will apply a couple coats of Interlux interprotect epoxy barrier coat to keep it from rusting while I order some epoxy fairing supplies.

 

[kcassells]

Love that Keel Look! Good luck with this project. I'm tagging along. I don't know a sheet from a sail but new is always good. that whale dorsal fin is looking real nice!