Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

[thrillhouse700]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

hahaha 115!!! we did most of ours in the summer at around 90 with about 60% humidity. Right now we will be rolling the boat into the garage with some heaters. Its getting really windy and really 50 degreeish.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

The gel time of resin is tested at 77F, as the temp increases the gel time will become shorter. For every fifteen degrees above 77 it will cut the gel time about in half, for every fifteen degrees below 77 it will about double the gel time, this isn't exact, but will give you an idea what will happen when you add catalyst at a temp other than 77.

Depending on where you buy the resin, you may or may not be able to find out what the gel time is.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Come on man, I want to see pictures. I posted mine!

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Alright here are the ugly pictures. Please notice the color difference on the hull beside the stringers is actually due to the original glass underneath being a different color, not massive air bubles.

First layer of CSM for tabbing.

Here are some close ups, notice the airbubles where I couldn't get the csm all the way down in between the where the stringer and hull meet. This area was later filled with a ton of resin while the glass was still wet with resin.

This picture gives you an idea of the bad stuff and I guess I will share. I didn't realize that I needed to sand the sides of the stringers and get rid of the PL bumps or that they would be an issue until it was too late

This is the 1708 going down over the second layer of CSM on the center stringer. The fuzzies on the small part of the center stringer in the bilge will be trimmed down.

A side shot of the 1708 layed down for test fit.

I don't have any pictures of the finished center stringer or the work I have been doing with trying to cap the stringers with csm and 1708.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

The gel time of resin is tested at 77F, as the temp increases the gel time will become shorter. For every fifteen degrees above 77 it will cut the gel time about in half

Ondarvr, some say poly won't work well or at all below 60? What do you think? It is going to be 50 here the next week and the only heaters I have are propane radiants which I am scared of using around flamable poly resin.

 

[83vert]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I feel your pain. I just started glassing today and it is a little harder than I expected. Did you round over the top of the stringers? Looks like you are doing a great job.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Thank you

I have not rounded over the stringers yet, except for small test areas. Several areas are to my satisfaction, but some are not.

It is like Bond-O said in an older thread I just read:

Personally,....
Draining Water away from whatever composition you dream up is the #1 thought going into Any lay-up for a hull...
Boats, Will take on water,.. somehow, some way,...
As long as drainage allows for drying,... Everything else will just fall into place....

That is my # 1 priority, making sure that water can be drained, sucked, or dryed from all of the under hull areas.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Looks about like mine, but I am sure it is strong. Keep it up man.

I need a shower!!!!

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Ondarvr, some say poly won't work well or at all below 60? What do you think? It is going to be 50 here the next week and the only heaters I have are propane radiants which I am scared of using around flamable poly resin.

The easiest way to keep the area warm is to use a heat lamp or halogen work light, just keep it far enough away from the layup, they can put out a great deal of heat and cook the layup. Any type of a cover will also hold in some heat.

Colder temps also give you the opportunity to go thicker (more layers of glass) and still not over heat the laminate.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Very good, I have three 500 Hallogen lamps and was noticing how much heat my single put out last night when I was using it in the work area.

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

system-f
Overall it looks pretty good. I still think you're being too hard on yourself.
I hope to start glassing when I get back home again.
How much resin have you used. I've got to pick mine up and would like an idea of what it's going to take. IF you don't mind letting me know.

Bob

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

So far I have used about 4 gallons, but on the last 1708 + CSM layup we were using too much resin.

I came in to work today and remembered to ask the machinists about making me an alignment bar using Don's picture he posted with the specs. I printed up the specs and showed them to one of the guys and he fell over laughing at how easy it would be to make. I come back from lunch and I have an alignment bar made in 304 stainless!!! This thing is so awesome looking...I love stainless!! I was hoping to get one in aluminum since that is what we use the most, but stainless is all they had due to some new projects!

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Got to love resources.
Thanks for the information.
Bob

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I just got done doing some 1708 tabs from the stringers to the transom and playing with CSM capping one of the stringers over a 2 foot section. I am getting better working with the glass but still not content. I will learn what I can and focus that knowledge on my next project this next winter.

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

That tool is just awesome. Just when I was gettin comfortable using glass, I was finished.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I have a long way to go and the problem is I am getting much better but working over non smooth surfaces so it is even harder to get it to conform. I am doing small sections at a time so I can dab as many air bubbles out as possible. Maybe I will be done with the stringers by this weekend...

First thing I did when I came home was test the tool and it fit the coupler and gimbal bearing perfectly.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I guess I should throw out an update since I have been working on this thing just about every day of the week. I am getting closer to getting the stringers glass in. The center stringer is done, the port stringer is almost done and the starboard stringer needs one more covering of CSM. I had to open my second 5 gallon container of resin today and to date have used 5 gallons and 12 OZ of resin. I also purchased a laminate roller from west marine and this is the tool I was missing. I can now force the CSM or biax around whatever obstruction is under it once wetted out. My air bubbles have been severely reduced.

The other day a friend told me that she had a guy living down the street that does fiberglass boat repair for a living and she gave me his phone number. Dying to talk to someone I gave this guy a call and asked him how I was doing. He made me feel much better about my work and told me that I was on the right track. He also can sell me fiberglass supplies and poly at around $15-20 per gallon! I will be calling him in a couple of weeks to get an emergency 2 gallons of poly since I have a lot of surfaces to cover with csm and biax.

One thing that has me concerned after reading one of erikgreen's posts is the amount of glass I have on the transom. It was my understanding, and I am wrong a lot that in an I/O application the push from the outdrive hits the transom and is then transferred to the boats hull via the stringers. That the glass covering the transom is purely for water protection (mine had none from the factory, just paint and roven tabbing). I have covered my transom with one lay of csm and tabbed the heck out of it with biax plus it is getting another covering of biax and I figured this would be more than enough?

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

Someone said in my thread that he had 50oz on the transom. I have 24 right now and I was going to put more on there. I want to see what people say.

 

[system-f]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

I want to see what people say.

Me too, mine had 0 oz from the factory with some 20oz roven tabbing and not much at that.

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: Poor Man's Skiboat...Restore?

When I removed mine it was about 1/8" -3/16" thick.
I just plan to build mine up to 2" -2 1/8" total thickness and call it good. Whatever that takes in glass.
Bob