Re: Restore 1988 Bayliner Capri SKI
Using PL or PB for bedding the stringers is fine. I haven't decided what I am going to do on that aspect I might be just router the edges of my stringers so they match the shape of the hull but then that's a lot more work than just laying in some PL so whats my time worth if it works. I am using a 20oz cloth only but I am using epoxy with my boat so the CSM is not as needed with the strength of the Epoxy and I plan on creating a rounded edge for my stringers so the sharp corners are minimized.
I will let someone else address the
splicing/repairing just a portion of the existing stringers (and ultimately the 'glass, which most, if not all of the 'strength' anyway, since my stringers are
JUST 'glass u channels poly'd upside down into the hull, no wood, no foam 'stringer meat') while they are in the boat, except to say I have seen it done.
73Chrysler: I wouldn't skip the bonding the stringers to the hull step, you need to make sure they are firmly in place prior to filleting & 'glassing begins. And as long as you are spacing the stringer wood off the hull surface 1/4"+/- to prevent a hard edge of stringer wood in direct contact with the hull (<<-- this is not good, direct hull creates a hard edge that becomes a stress point that can lead to putting cracks in the hull). Routing the stringer to fit good is ok, just don't do it in lieu of a 1/4" gap.
The PL is a bit of a black sheep here:
Some would only do it that way ~ it may remain somewhat more flexible to aid w/ prevention of stress cracks along their length.
Others wouldn't do it that way on their own boats if you were to pay them to do the work & buy all the PL to be needed ~ poly or epoxy PB only. But they still gap the stringer meat off the hull & fill, tab it in w/ 'glass & resin (poly - epoxy) of their choice mixed into PB. Plus PL can bubble, esp when laid on thick (as a fillet), takes awhile to cure (doesn't like too cold or too hot temps), and once cured the bubbles are a b#tch to sand, and w/out proper prep just like epoxy & poly, & full cure, its bond can break/pull free.
That said, I am going to be using PL on parts of my project, and taking steps to allow full cure & minimize bubbling.