Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Here is the original color chosen... Yep it sucked. So I scrapped a days worth of work and shopped around for a new color
 

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Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Here is the carpet that I decided on and it looks great! It's called Toffee bought it from Lowes.
 

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Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I was able to get all the edges bound by a local carpet guy for $90. The black edges finished it nicely. Enjoy! There is just a few more in the fitting stage as well
 

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Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Just a couple with a mock up of carpet, windshield, and new hardware. Also the custom painted motor. For some reason the painter spelled Evinrude, EvEnrude. Not sure if that was intentional since it says custom underneath or what. Not extemely happy with the motor job. There are runs in the clear and it is apparent he rushed through it. Unfortunately we had a falling out due to his financial situation and sticking me with fees I had no obligation to pay. Needless to say he did an all around amazing job. The pic quality of the motor is low due to them being taken with my phone. I post some others later on
 

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Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I gonna repost my questions... They kinda got lost among the pics

First - For the cedar decking what would be the best stain/water repellent to use. I have been researching but really can't find the best. Has anyone used this before and could help?

Next - I need a new prop. The aluminum I have is a three blade 11.75" diameter with 17 pitch prop. It has been recommended to do the same size in a composite piranha prop or switch to a SS 12.25" diameter 15 pitch Powertech SRG3. My only concern with the SS is how the weight of the prop will affect my motors transmission. I have read that adjusting the idle speed with a SS helps with the "Clunk" that is typically heard. What are your suggestions on the matter?

Any help would be great. Thanks!
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Alright I'm back at it again! THIS IS GONNA BE THE YEAR! We coming up on the three year mark and haven't splashed her yet! But I finally graduated and am officially a licensed and practicing doctor of physical therapy.... so that should make things a little easier. Weather here in Arkansas is funky... it was 72 this past weekend and yet I woke this morning to scrape ice from my windshield and without having a garage to work in this makes working on the boat difficult. The small amount of carpet that is being put back into the boat is nearly complete. Should be picking up the western red cedar decking for the floor this weekend. Here are a couple of more pics of the carpet progress.
 

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Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I have bought the cedar decking and ready to start installing the floor. I have a question though... I'm looking for a product kinda like the bed strips they use in classic trucks; That metal strip that's between the wooden planks of the bed. Do they make a product like that for boats? Or is there a DIY type thing out there that will perform the same? I figure this would give the floor a nice finished look. Any help would be great appreciated! Let me know what you think
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Just a little update... Ordered a new prop about three days ago and it was on my doorstep yesterday. It definitely is pretty but heck they are proud of them... this puppy wasn't cheap!
 

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Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Here are some updates... Carpet is finished and bound... Also the floor has been started.. Cedar planks... it looks amazin! Here are some pics... More to follow!
 

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Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Here is that cedar floor!
 

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ezmobee

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

That deck is gonna look really cool.
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I think it is too! The pictures really don't do the wood justice. It looks really good just sitting there. I still have some work on it before I can call it complete. I purposely left the boards too long so I could cut to fit. Also I need to sand down the edges so you don't catch your foot or get a splinter. The boards will be spaced 1/16 of an inch and attached with SS deck screws straight to the stringer. The boards will be finished with Penofin Red Label Western Red Cedar Deck stain. Its an oil based non film forming semi transparent stain. If you have any suggestions I would love to hear them. This is the plan so far
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I'd apply a thinned coat of Epoxy to the wood. Then I'd use Epiphanes Marine varnish. It has great UV protective qualities. Put on 2 coats then while it's wet sprinkle on some sand. Then when it drys apply a third and final coat. This would give you a great Non-Skid deck. This is what the Wood Boat guys use on their 50K boats.
 

Huron Angler

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I agree, that cedar deck is unique and will look great. I did something sorta similar in my 12' boat for removable decking.

Also I used aluminum similarly for my ski locker storage below deck.

Leaving that gap in between will make sure water drains to the bilge quickly. One thing you will want to watch is making sure stuff doesn't fall thru and clog the bilge.

Launch is approaching soon:)
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I did a lot of research when it came to cedar for the finish... I even contacted the Western Red Cedar Lumbar Association this was the reply I received from the East Area Manager:

My Letter:
I am in the process of restoring an old aluminum fish and ski boat and would like to use cedar decking as the floor. What type of sealers and stains should I look for? Any recommendations on the best ones to use? This boat will not be kept in the water and the only time the wood should be wet would be while out on the lake other than that it will be stored covered in my yard. I know it this may be a different question then you are used to receiving but I figured I'd give it a shot. Any information would be great. Thank you for you time.

The Response:
DO NOT use a Marine Spar Varnish, Polyurethane of other clear 'film forming' finish or they will peel off the cedar and require sanding and refinishing. Instead use a coating that is designed to be refinished like a clear water repellent preservative, (Wolman Woodlife Classic for example) or a semi-transparent oil stain on the cedar. Paint or solid stain would work so long as the cedar has been primed using an alkyd stain blocking primer and it is applied before exposing the cedar to sunlight. The top coats can be either a solid (opaque) stain or a paint, and they should be 100% acrylic (water based).

Respectfully,

Ed Burke
Eastern Area Manager
Western Red Cedar Lumber Association


Woodonglass: Would the application you mention be applicable towards cedar?

Huron Angler: I chose a 1/16 so it would be small enough to to allow big particles to pass through but wide enough to allow for adequate drainage of water. I can't wait till launch day... its been a long process but well worth it!

I need to replace the foam... Now I know this topic has been beat to death. My intention is to buy the blue closed cell construction foam board (largest I can find at Lowes is 1") and cut to fit... BUT its almost 23 dollars a board which could add up when all said and done. Is 2 part pour foam difficult to use? Can I pour it between the stringers before the floor is placed and when dry cut it to level it so I can mount the floor? Or should I just eat the extra cost and go with the ease of installation?
 

Huron Angler

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Yeah, 1/16" should be a good width actually. I went a bit too wide and stuff does fall thru once in a while.

Pink/blue foam boards = good.

Pour-in foam = bad.

I'd really stay away from the 2-part stuff, good for fiberglass rigs, aluminum not so much. That's just my opinion though, I've not dealt with it myself, just seen others have issues with it.
 

ezmobee

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

I'm also not a pour in fan. If you do decide to go that route, consider putting some plastic in between the hull and the foam.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

That's why I said to SEAL it with the Thinned epoxy FIRST. The Oil in the Cedar WOULD have and adverse affect on the Spar Varnish BUT NOT the Epoxy. BUT.... epoxy has NO UV protection SOOOOOO you use the Spar Varnish that DOES have UV protection to Protect the Epoxy and provide additional waterproofing. It WILL work great on the cedar IF and ONLY if you seal it first with the thinned epoxy. Thin it 25% with Acetone. Take a sample piece of cedar and buy some 10 minute expoxy from Lowes. Mix it up and thin it with some acetone and apply it to the sample piece. Put a coat of Varnish on and Let it set for a week in the sun and see what happens. If the oil in the cedar is gunna make it cloud up or peel off you'll know in a week.:eek:
 

Piece715

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Re: Restoring 1986 Sea Nymph SS155 (pics)

Woodonglass: Thanks for the clarification I'm new to many subjects involved in boat restoration... this project has been quite the learning experience over the past 2 1/2 years... I will have to give that a shot and see what happens! How would maintenance work with that type of set up? Is it a one time thing or yearly sand and re app would be needed? Also I'm guessing the spar varnish would be applied immediately following app of thinned epoxy? Thanks for the suggestions and help

Huron Angler and ezmobee: Looks like the blue stuff it is ;)
 
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