So let me get this straight.....

[AChotrod]

Doing a new stator, trigger and regulator on my engine Merc 60hp serial # OG252205. Not touching anything else. Is it right I do not have to mark or adjust anything for timing?

I have the Factory service manual and it says nothing about it for my flywheel only ones marked with the adjustable timing pointer. There are no adjustments I can see on mine. So I assume its a keyed crank hub and as long as I put it all back the way I took it off all should be good? Parts should be here in a day or two and want to dig in right away.

Thanks
Mike

 

[wired247]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

All cranks are keyed for the flywheel. I wouldnt trust the timing mark to right unless I verified it with a piston stop or dial indicator.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Ok well there is no adjustment hole or set screws on mine to set anything. The stator has 4 bolts and the trigger has a link arm. Even if I wanted to how would you adjust it?

 

[wired247]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

If you set it all up and the timing mark is where it needs to be then you dont do anything to establish zero. If its 2 degrees off you mark 2 degrees +/- as zero and time based on that point as zero. It doesnt sound like thats what you are asking though. The trigger and stator and setting the timing don't have anything to do with the zero mark . Once zero is established you set your timing with a timing light. The idle and overall timing are adjusted with the linkage stops as part of the link and sync setup.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Well I guess Im just not seeing how it would make any difference. Its keyed and the manual says nothing about timing the stator or trigger adjustments without the adjustable FW.

Guess you could bolt the stator on wrong but that's not likely, trigger only goes one way and there is a key on the FW and it has no adjustment. So if it goes on the way it came off should it be good? Or do I need to adjust the timing? Im new to boats but have plenty of time with car engines. This is totally different but I just don't see how i could adjust anything besides make sure it goes on right.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Is there enough play in the keyed FW to make any difference? That is my main question.
This is the plan.
1. unbolt flywheel bolt.
2. use puller to remove flywheel
3. removes stator and trigger
5 install new stator and trigger (same exact way it came off)
6 install FW torque to spec.

What else do I do? Dont think a dial caliper is needed for that.

 

[wired247]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Do you not want to set the timing? I don't get it.

Is there enough play in the keyed FW to make any difference? That is my main question.
This is the plan.
1. unbolt flywheel bolt.
2. use puller to remove flywheel
3. removes stator and trigger
5 install new stator and trigger (same exact way it came off)
6 install FW torque to spec.

What else do I do? Dont think a dial caliper is needed for that.

 

[wired247]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

The stator doesnt have much to do with the timing. It just provides power to the capacitors that fire the coils. The trigger has everything to do with the timing and same part number or not, you cant guarantee that the spark advance will be the same as it was before after changing the trigger. Set the timing. Its a 5 minute job.

Once you get a hang of it you'll understand that 2 cycle outboards are so much simpler and easier to work on than what you find in the automotive world.

 

[bgc]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Timing on the motors is critical. There are very minuscule differences in the parts that can change the timing of your motor.
Wired247, is the max advance controlled by the top screw, on the outer throttle arm for the 3 cylinders?

 

[bgc]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

AChotrod,
My manual outlines the timing procedures in section C of Ignition and Electrical chapter(December 1996 printing). I see what you're saying and there is no mention of a non-adjustable timing marker.
Use a dial indicator to double check where your timing marks are, even if you don't have the adjustment. Better to be sure than rebuilding a powerhead

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Do you not want to set the timing? I don't get it.

I want to, but there is no way to. There is timing marks on the FW but looks like that is to set the carbs.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

AChotrod,
My manual outlines the timing procedures in section C of Ignition and Electrical chapter(December 1996 printing). I see what you're saying and there is no mention of a non-adjustable timing marker.
Use a dial indicator to double check where your timing marks are, even if you don't have the adjustment. Better to be sure than rebuilding a powerhead

So you agree there really is no way to set it but I should double check it to be safe.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Sorry guys If I got home earlier yesterday I would have taken pics of the FW. This is the best I have on me and those are the only marks on the FW. No window, timing pointer or adjustments that I can see.

 

[wired247]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

you appear to be missing the flywheel cover. Just ghetto it up and use a coat hanger bolted to the block somewhere for a TDC marker.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Thats probably why I was so confused. I do have the plastic cover but didnt look at it very close. Figured it was just a dust cover. I will look into that once I get home.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

New plan
1 remove FW
2 remove trigger and stator
3 reinstall stator and trigger
4 replace flywheel and tq to spec
5 disconnect fuel line to motor
6 disconnect throttle linkage at throttle arm
7 remove plugs and ground wires(ie stuff some wire in each plug wire and ground to block)
8 set motor at TDC set dial indicator to 0 then turn FW counterclockwise until is says .550, then turn FW clockwise until indicator reads .459. Mark FW
9 hook up timing light to top cylinder spark plug wire
9 Crank over and check timing at idle position(should be at 2* to the right of the 0*) If not adjust with idle timing screw on throttle arm until it is
10 Hold throttle arm wide open.
11 recheck timing and make sure it is at BTDC mark on FW. If not adjust spark advance screw. Until it is.

This sound right?

 

[wired247]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

The idle timing number is pretty much worthless. You are going to set it where you need to to get the idle RPM to 700 or so in gear in the water. If its 2 degrees that's great with the idle screws out sufficient to transition from idle to main or intermediate circuit . If its not who cares? You get what you get.

Heres a much easier way to do WOT timing. Stick a dial indicator in the spark plug hole and find TDC mark it or just verify its what the flywheel says. Disconnect the carb linkage from the throttle arm . Start it up and push the throttle down all the way. It will only only run up to 1500 or so without the carbs open but the advance will go all the way up. Adjust total timing to WOT spec with your timing light. Shut it down and reconnect your carbs. Have a beer.

 

[AChotrod]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Well I love beer so that sounds like a plan. Reading all this crap hurts my brain and a beer eases the pain. lol.
So grab a plug fouler and indicator verify TDC with FW then set WOT timing to spec with the carb linkage off. What about all this grounding of the wires etc? Seems too easy after everything Ive read/watched.

 

[wired247]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

You arent ground plug wires because its running. Plugs in , hooked up , running and all that. Just disconnect the carb linkage from the main linkage arm and let it pull in timing without opening the carb butterflies while its running. Sometimes it seems like the military took over that instruction manual and made it as difficult as possible to follow and understand.

Well I love beer so that sounds like a plan. Reading all this crap hurts my brain and a beer eases the pain. lol.
So grab a plug fouler and indicator verify TDC with FW then set WOT timing to spec with the carb linkage off. What about all this grounding of the wires etc? Seems too easy after everything Ive read/watched.

 

[jbjennings]

Re: So let me get this straight.....

Did I read somewhere correctly that it may be better to set it at 2-4 degrees retarded from spec, since when the engine winds up to full throttle, the timing will advance that far vs. what the timing is at 1500 rpms. I say 2-4 degrees because I've read both from 2 different guys that are very knowledgeable. I'm thinking the Joe Reeves method says 4 degrees from spec when setting at low rpm. I forget what procedure I read said 2 degrees. :faint2: