Starcraft Holiday Rebirth

badbowtie

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May 18, 2007
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634
I also was looking around tonight trying to decide if I want to do 4 swivel seats and pedestals and then go ahead and put the small jump seats back in in the rear corners. Or do I want to do the two back to back style seats and then still put the 2 back jump seats still in the corners. I think I still have enough room to fish. I just worry that the pedestal seats will not be great for family boating also. So I am just confused on what to buy. I keep checking craigslist the last couple days figuring I will find a deal so good that I cant turn down that will make my decision for me.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,780
On the jump seats at the stern: The OB is much lighter than the I/O back there (my point of reference) but about the same hp. People love 'em. Problem is you load up the arse and you have a problem with the hole shot (getting up on plane). Several corrections for that which are prop pitch reduction, Whale's Tail (brand name) bolted to the AV plate, or trim tabs that bolt to the transom. The prop pitch reduction helps the engine to develop it's hp early which keeps the prop twisting under load. The other two are like flaps on an airplane as they force the water down at the transom (for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction....forgot the author...somebody will remind us) which forces the transom up...aka gets you on plane quicker and helps to hold plane attitude at slower cruising speeds. Money well spent and the guys that have them will probably chime in if they see this posting.

On the engine you need to tweak the prop if needed after you diddle with everything else.....all other options. Come back on here and we will help you through that tweak.

On the seats, with the high sides, you will either want a pedestal or you will be sitting on the back of the back to back when you are the helmsman. The latter being the case, you need to ensure that you get the seat close enough to the steering wheel to allow you to do that yet have knee room when you are sitting IN the seat.

Nuf for now.
 

64osby

Admiral
Joined
Jul 28, 2009
Messages
6,826
I prefer the pedestal seats. You could make the back two removable to open up the floor for fishing.

The also refer to back to back seats as head knockers for good reason. Never did like sitting facing backwards. Strictly my opinion yours may differ.
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
Well today didnt get anything done on the boat did try a couple stores for pop rivets and not finding anything long enough. I am figuring I need 3/16 x 1-1/4 I am figuring I also want all alum rivet or alum with steel pins. Or am I looking for rivets to long figured it is 3/4 plywood and if I reuse them metal strips for joints and at each floor rib.
 
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Decker83

Commander
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Apr 5, 2011
Messages
2,593
I bought mine at rivetsonline.. I used the aluminum rivet and shank.. A lot of others use the steel shank.. I don't want the steel in my boat..
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,822
Well today didnt get anything done on the boat did try a couple stores for pop rivets and not finding anything long enough. I am figuring I need 3/16 x 1-1/4 I am figuring I also want all alum rivet or alum with steel pins. Or am I looking for rivets to long figured it is 3/4 plywood and if I reuse them metal strips for joints and at each floor rib.

I would suggest for the decking to use large flange blind rivets in all aluminum including the mandrel. Here is the formula for grip range. You don't want to have under or much over the grip range of the rivet as too long would cause the mandrel to break oddly and not pull as tight as it could. I'm not sure you can even find 1-1/4" grip range blinds.

3/4" ply = .750
Rib= .090 or .080 on some.
Deck covering is the only unknown but it's not ever very thick maybe .080 if carpet.(when compressed).
Grip range= .920
It's always best to make sure you have a little fudge room too if you have to pull some to get things tight together.

If you buy your rivets where I did, make sure you get every size you think you'll need down the road as the shipping is high. Here's a link to the LF blind rivets. Get the 3/16" grip range .876 to 1.00.

An air rivet gun is invaluable when doing these rivets.
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
Okay I am going to call or stop one more place today and then I guess on to ordering them. I have a place about a hour each way that I used to work I know has them it is a semi trailer repair place but I really just didn't want to drive two hours for rivets. I may even see if maybe they would just mail them to me. When I was thinking 1-1/4 I was thinking of overall shank so probably pretty close to 1" grip range.
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
I did get some all aluminum rivets today ordered they will have them tomorrow for me to pick up they are the .876-1.00 grip range. I went ahead and got 200 of them which is more than I needed but figured better have them than not. At least tomorrow I will be able to get the floor all back down if I get time tomorrow night.
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
Well I got rivets today but just aint got the time tonight to work on installing the floor so maybe tomorrow other wise I should be able to get it in Friday. I also did call mirax tanks and they sell a sending unit about 55 shipped that is electrical and she said it was 33-240 ohm so I will have to find a fuel gauge. I have a couple of the universal ones that are gm I think 0-90 ohm ones here. I am just not sure if they will bolt right down to the tank or not. I think I will just order there sending unit as long as she confirms it will bolt right down to what I have. I can buy them fuel gauges for about 30 so I think that will be the best option. I also am thinking I am going to strip the material of the side boards since I may need to rip a 1/4 to fit with the thicker floor and I am thinking for this summer I am just going to paint both sides and just seal them all up and use it like that.
 

Texasmark

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 20, 2005
Messages
14,780
I got my last one at napa and the tank resistor. 33-240 is what I have mostly found in autos, boats, and farm equipment. Easy enough check. Take what parts you have wired up, ready to accept the part you need and connections to get across a battery. Take the wiring rig to the part dealer install the part move the float up and down and check for yourself. No guess work.
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
Okay well tonignt I did pull the old sending unit out of the tank and I checked the universal one I have and it will bolt right on so no big deal there I just need to shorten it and set it up right and then double check but I think it is 0-90 so no big deal just buy a univerasl gauge and have that all worked out. I am going to plan tomorrow and saturday morning to finish getting all the floor pop riveted all back in.
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
Got all the floor back in and riveted in yesterday, even got first coat of sealer on floor. I am going to put a second coat on today so I will be ready to buy rust oleum and some play sand. What hardener should I add wit it to make it even more durable.
1219151609_zpszvtcczlo.jpg
 

g0nef1sshn

Lieutenant
Joined
Feb 24, 2015
Messages
1,291
Most on here seal all the wood (top bottom and sides) with 3-4 coats before installing it. Maybe I missed it earlier, but did you seal all sides with something?

It is turning out nice by the way!
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
I sealed sides and bottom and I am sealing top with it all installed to just paint it all at one time.
 

jbcurt00

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Staff member
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Oct 25, 2011
Messages
25,113
Enamel hardener will improve the toughness of rusto, but it will also raise gloss level. That may make it slicker too. No idea what impact that'll make w added sand.

The hardener also makes the rusto dry quicker. W out it, rusto can stay green for a long time, even w out cool temps.

Congrats on getting the dexk down
 

badbowtie

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2007
Messages
634
Okay well did I screw up know or am I going to be okay. I was at last night and new I needed a another gallon of the kilz sealer so I grabbed one can looked the same. So I grabbed the new one and climbed up in the boat and started painting the whole floor again thinking man it is really brushing really nice with the new brush I grabbed. Got it all done and and climbed out and went to close the can up and noticed sitting next to the empty can I had from yesterday I screwed up and bought the water base instead of the oil base. So am I in for trouble with bounding or not? I also am going to top with the rust oleum oil base so what you guys think?
 

g0nef1sshn

Lieutenant
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Feb 24, 2015
Messages
1,291
Maybe do a good scuff sand and reapply what you meant too? im no paint expert, but thats what Id be thinking of doing. Curious to see what more experienced guys here say.
 
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