Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
146
First, I'd like to say I have read thru every single one of the rebuild threads and learned an incredible amount regarding building these boats. Thanks you all for your great pictures and step throughout your builds. My interior is fresh so I need only replace my transom.

I'd like to clear up some of the questions I have that are still lingering for me. Hopefully, in the future it will help others as well. When it is all said and done I would like to create my own "How To: Replace a Transom on a Starcraft SS". Now, I understand the basics of what I need to do, I just wants some advice on how to go about it.

From what I have seen, removing the splashwell is not 100% necessary. It makes things easier to reach but isn't required. My splashwell has seen better days. Overall, it looks fine. But on the starboard side it looks as if it gave into someone standing on it.

img20110913171947.jpg


Because of this I'd like to remove mine and ideally find a welder to touch things up for me. It that can't happen I'll get some angles and rivet them to the back side and fill in the void with sealant. You can see that it seems the 2 rivets next to the snap failed allowing the whole thing to drop down.

I've got a few spots where it seems the rivets are failing. I'd like to drill them out and replace them. Might as well do them all while it's all out.

img20110913172230.jpg


Once I remove the motor my plan is to remove the end caps then the cap for the transom. What are these connectors/rivets called? How are they removed? What did you guys use to replace them? They aren't typical rivets. They look the same on both sides.

img20110913171927b.jpg

img20110913172028b.jpg


The PO, noticing the rot, took action. He drilled thru the top cap of the transom and injected some no rot solution. This is another reason I will be pulling the splashwell. I have a feeling this stuff is going to need to be scraped away from the transom face and maybe even sanded down. My plan to fill these holes is after the new transom is built and installed I will stick a piece of foil over the transom, stick the cap on top of that, clamp in place, fill w/ either JB weld or body filler, remove, sand & paint. The foil is purely there to keep it from adhering to the transom wood.

img20110913172008.jpg


This question I am a little apprehensive about asking. I've seen the answers and know the opinions on it. The plywood plate between the transom face and the motor. I've seen everything from "It's there to protect the transom from scuffing" to "It reduces noise and vibration". They've been replaced with wood, steel, cutting board material, etc. For those of you who have rebuilt the transom on your SS what did you decide to do? Did you eliminate it? If so, was there an increase in noise/vibration?

img20110913172035.jpg


My drainplug has a smooth bore. I'd like to install one that screws in. Has this been done? Is it a legitimate solution? Why can I not find an assembly for the plate and plug here on iboats? Am I searching for the wrong thing?

Besides the drain plug and splashwell drains, what more needs to be replaced? Did you guys replace all of the nuts/bolts/screws? Obviously, I will need rivets. What size/length of rivets did you purchase?

What is the best way to fill in the holes where the fish finder transponder is? Those holes are the root cause of all of the rot. They were not sealed properly. Obviously, it's ideal to have it welded closed, but what is something I can do myself? I will be installing my own on there as well as a new pitot. The new pitot has the same mounting pattern so I will reuse those holes.

I know I have asked a bunch of questions, but I read all of the build threads and couldn't find those answers specifically. I appreciate any help you guys can give.

Thanks,

Scott
 

paparoof

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
730
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

First of all, congrats on doing your homework first. Secondly good job posting big, clear pictures so we know what you're talking about. The angry mob can have the night off tonight.

I am not an SS owner so can't answer those SS-specific questions, I'm sure someone's typing up that answer as I'm typing this one.

What I can answer is the best way to fill in transom holes. Stainless steel screws (or bolts depending on the size of the hole), stainless washers and 5200! NO SILICONE!

Your plan to JB the holes in the transom cap sounds perfectly sane to me as well. Seen plenty of folks do the same here. Seems to work just fine.

There's no reason to replace screws/bolts that appear good to you. The ones that need to go in the garbage will stand out clearly.

I can also recommend McMaster-Carr for rivets. Google the name for their website. Crazy selection - they got 'em all baby. Good prices and fast shipping. After riveting my new deck and miscellaneous cabin frame parts, I came away with the impression that it'd be better to have rivets that are a little bit too long as opposed to having them a little bit too short. So measure the thicknesses of the parts to be joined then add a little bit for "fudge room". You get to define "a little bit" yourself. They're not terribly expensive so maybe an assortment of sizes would give you the best results.

Good luck and keep us up to date on your project! Every time I read a new thread, I learn something new.
 

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
146
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Great, helpful info. Thanks! From what I recall reading there is a specific closed end rivet? Is this correct or am I mixing info? I know I def want Aluminum rivets. Any advice on the drain plug?
 

CheapboatKev

Vice Admiral
Joined
Oct 4, 2008
Messages
5,813
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Great, helpful info. Thanks! From what I recall reading there is a specific closed end rivet? Is this correct or am I mixing info? I know I def want Aluminum rivets. Any advice on the drain plug?


Welcome!
Dont worry about the drain plug.
A 2.00 rubber plug from anywhere will fit. Push it in and twist the T handle to expand it.
They used to be cork, way back in the day.
The brass screw in type is a GAR plug I beleive, and while good, do you really want to have to wrench it off after a days boating?
Expecially if in Saltwater and is stuck?
 

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 12, 2011
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146
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Hm... I guess I hadn't thought of that. My issue with the type in there now is it's hell to get in. There is a little ridge inside the hole that it seems to hang up on. I guess I'll be replacing it any way so a new one should be easier. These are not reusable once removed from the transom and boat, correct? (The drain hole tube not the plug itself)
 

CheapboatKev

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5,813
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Hm... I guess I hadn't thought of that. My issue with the type in there now is it's hell to get in. There is a little ridge inside the hole that it seems to hang up on. I guess I'll be replacing it any way so a new one should be easier. These are not reusable once removed from the transom and boat, correct? (The drain hole tube not the plug itself)


I myself would not even think of cutting out the plug unless it was trashed and leaked. Get a new plug, put the hose in the bilge and make sure she holds tight. Just jack up the bow so all the water is back in the bilge where it belongs.
 

Pugetsound

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 5, 2009
Messages
1,824
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

The ridge in the plug hole will still allow the expansion plug to work fine. I have them in my 22 Holiday and the 16 SS I restored and sold this summer. If the ridge bothers you use a Dremel to smooth the ridge out with.
 

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 12, 2011
Messages
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Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Ok. I'll just live with it and try and smooth it out a little with a sanding bit on the dremel. The washer on the end of the plug seems to bind on the ridge and make it a pain to get in. I usually have to unscrew the handle on the plug and spit on it :)facepalm: I can see where this comment may go) to get it in. Then I screw it tight again and flip the handle up. Maybe after doing it a few times I'll get the hang of it and it won't be such a hassle. I've only had it out on the water 2 times.
 

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 12, 2011
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146
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

One more thing, the beam the runs forward of the splash well, is there wood in there? I can see the foam from under it but didn't want to chip the foam away quite yet. Since the starboard side of it pushed down I may have to remove the whole thing to get it back to the position it was in originally.
 

Pugetsound

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Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

another best advise is to get the plug with the tee end so you have to manualy screrw it tight. No way for it to come loose and fail. I have used the lever in the past and they are trouble unless there inside and I wouln never intentionalkly set the drain plug from the inside of a boat .
 

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 12, 2011
Messages
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Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Great advice. Thanks guys. Keep it coming.
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Messages
23,767
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Those fasteners you asked about are nails. In my opinion, don't replace them. Just 5200 the transom cap back on. I've done this on two SC transoms and it works fine. Putting little holes at the top of the transom wood for nails just seemed like a terrible idea to me.

Also my opinion, eliminate the outer piece of wood. It is unnecessary and only serves to eventually compress and leak through the fasteners. Newer tin boats and no fiberglass boats have that piece. I ditched it on both of mine.

For your extra holes, I used JB Weld with little squares of aluminum flashing as backers. Worked great and kept the plugs from "popping" after I sanded them smooth. You can get a hole roll of the stuff at Lowes for like $6. This will work great for your transducer holes also.

As for the plug, I've been using a handle plug for many years with nary an issue. Don't mess with that existing nice sturdy plug hole.

Since you're fairly local to me, I'm pretty sure you'll be able to find Arauco plywood at Lowes. Super nice stuff and great for your transom. Coat it with two coats of epoxy and then paint it with Rustoleum or equivalent.
 

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Jul 12, 2011
Messages
146
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

Never thought about just gluing the cap back on. I figured it may make for a pain when having to remove it, but I doubt in my lifetime I'll be the one doing it. You guys have all been extremely helpful. Thanks a lot!

I'll do some measuring on my pieces to size my rivets and place my order for all of my materials and should be breaking into it within the next few weeks.
 

GLG fishing

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 25, 2009
Messages
456
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

This question I am a little apprehensive about asking. I've seen the answers and know the opinions on it. The plywood plate between the transom face and the motor. I've seen everything from "It's there to protect the transom from scuffing" to "It reduces noise and vibration". They've been replaced with wood, steel, cutting board material, etc. For those of you who have rebuilt the transom on your SS what did you decide to do? Did you eliminate it? If so, was there an increase in noise/vibration?

img20110913172035.jpg


Scott

You may find corrosion behind that wood. If so you can cut a piece of aluminum to replace the wood.
Did that on a holiday and so far it looks and works great. Seal with 3m5200 and your good to go.
GLG
 

sje0123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 12, 2011
Messages
146
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

If there is corrosion behind it and the pitting isn't an issue I will grind it off. While I have it all apart I plan to repaint the whole back side. I'll probably repaint the splashwell also since it's pretty rough. That's just something else on the list to experiment with. The paint on the whole boat needs work but I need to find out if it's possible or even worth it to try and bring it back or if I'm better off repainting it. We'll have to see.
 

CheapboatKev

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5,813
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

There really isn't any "bringing back" the paint.
It doesn't have gel coat that you can buff or shine.
since you will have it in pieces now is the time to paint her.
You also have a good existing coat of old paint so use that in place of primer.
Just rough sand a little to scuff it up and give the new paint something to hold on to.
 

barato2

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Dec 7, 2010
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Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

my auto-painter-guru freind agrees with Kev on the priming.....with the resources you have as an individual (or even a pro painter with spray booth), you simply cannot lay on a coat of primer (even if self-etching and shot right after acid wipe)that will adhere to bare metal as well as the factory paint. this is true with cars and i suspect even more true with alum boats.
 

bunker108

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
482
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

I will have to disagree here. I painted my boat in a booth at my friends shop...who guided me through the process. I talked about leaving factory paint, and just scuffing it but he talked me out of it. There would have been much more tedious work involved trying to blend every scratch, nic, or imperfection in the factory paint to lay down a smooth coat on top of it. We went down to bare metal, filled any and every deep scratch with bondo, applied with a razor blade, sanded again, "waxed and greased" it to clean, and then sprayed it with a straight to metal primer. These primers are available just a bit pricey. I paid about $200 for a quart. We got incredible adhesion to the aluminum, which you could tell when finish sanding before final paint. The primer just feathered down when I was doing some final filling and sanding before the topcoat. Poor adhesion would be indicated by flaking primer.

The question is what kind of finish are you going for. As anyone will tell you that paint is all about prep. So if you can live with seeing all of those nics and scratches peeking out from under your new shiny paint, then by all means just shoot over top of it. I sanded down to bare metal, finish sanded before primer, the finish sanded the primer before paint. I even skipped an entire step with an even finer grit becasue I knew that I could "live with it". There are still imperfections that are visible throught the paint.

So the question isn't about adhesion to bare aluminum, it is how far do you want to take it? I would have been "ok" with the route I had planned on taking but I am glad that my buddy convinced me to do it right and go all the way. I admit that I took it a little far for a 1973 Starcraft, but the results are worth it. I am fortunate to have a professional willing to help me, but it was done right and should last at least as long as the factory paint.

Good luck...and if you have and questions on products I can get you product names and codes.
 

barato2

Commander
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Messages
2,956
Re: Starcraft SS Specific Transom Replacement Questions: My Rebuild Project

you may be right as to alum boats. my friend was talking about stuff like electrostatic charging of the metal to ensure paint adhesion, and dipping the unibody components into paint to ensure complete coverage....neither of which may be applicable to a 70s Starcraft.

and you're absolutely correct on paint prep being 85% of the result. we shot my Westy in a 1943 garage and got a great job, simply through sweating the details. we probably spent 2 weeks on wet sanding between primer coats alone.

the results on your boat certainly look great!

altho, IMHO, on a boat, a 20-20* paint job is usually good enough to make people ooh and aah

*looks good from 20 feet away when vehicle is going 20 mph ;)
 
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