Still having trouble with Quickstart........... Please help.

[clanton]

Trace the white/black wire from the pack, should go to one of the overheat sensors. Check the wire and sensor. This sensor causes the timer to shift when engine reaches operation temps.

 

[sutor623]

Trace the white/black wire from the pack, should go to one of the overheat sensors. Check the wire and sensor. This sensor causes the timer to shift when engine reaches operation temps.

Clanton, I have this problem even when the black/white wire is disconnected. Once the engine is warm, if the wire is connected, the QS will drop out. But either way timing bounces around when QS is supposed to be engaged.

 

[clanton]

When you had the flywheel off, did the magnets look ok and timer magnet ring in place? I have my manual now. I would like to see photo of yellow red wire connected to solenoid .

 

[oldboat1]

Hey Sutor,

"Quick start" to me means prime, choke and pull (if it works). That said, I think Clanton's suggestion (#21) makes sense, even given your prior grounding tests of the blk/wht temp sensor lead.

Grounding the sensor disengages QS in your tests (engine running) -- presumably signals QS that engine temp exceeds 105F. QS normally operates for a short period after start up under all conditions, as I understand it. If it operates normally for 10 or 15 seconds after start up while the sensor is manually grounded -- then shuts down -- I think QS would be working correctly. Would seem reasonable to conclude then that an intermittent signal from the sensor is causing the wonky operation you are getting with normal sensor connection.

Thinking maybe you haven't tried grounding the sensor lead during start up(?) And maybe my logic has grounded out....

Prime, choke and pull. Nothing to it.

 

[Faztbullet]

Hey Sutor....The yel/red supplies voltage to get QS engaged till RPM is fast enough that voltage from org-org/blk power coil takes over. Will it disengage when you rev it up? I will look to see if I got a spare timer base.

 

[sutor623]

When you had the flywheel off, did the magnets look ok and timer magnet ring in place? I have my manual now. I would like to see photo of yellow red wire connected to solenoid .

Clanton, flywheel looks better than I have EVER seen on a motor 20 yrs. old. Paint is all there, magnets do not seem loose, timer magnet ring is in the place where the factory made their placement mark. Does not seem to be cracked at all!! What do you think?

 

[sutor623]

Hey Sutor,

"Quick start" to me means prime, choke and pull (if it works). That said, I think Clanton's suggestion (#21) makes sense, even given your prior grounding tests of the blk/wht temp sensor lead.

Grounding the sensor disengages QS in your tests (engine running) -- presumably signals QS that engine temp exceeds 105F. QS normally operates for a short period after start up under all conditions, as I understand it. If it operates normally for 10 or 15 seconds after start up while the sensor is manually grounded -- then shuts down -- I think QS would be working correctly. Would seem reasonable to conclude then that an intermittent signal from the sensor is causing the wonky operation you are getting with normal sensor connection.

Thinking maybe you haven't tried grounding the sensor lead during start up(?) And maybe my logic has grounded out....

Prime, choke and pull. Nothing to it.

Oldboat,
I agree with the statement on QS. Id rather this motor not have it and do it the old fashioned way. I can ground the lead at startup, but QS still engages for 5-10 seconds, and sounds terrible.

 

[sutor623]

Hey Sutor....The yel/red supplies voltage to get QS engaged till RPM is fast enough that voltage from org-org/blk power coil takes over. Will it disengage when you rev it up? I will look to see if I got a spare timer base.

Fazt, thanks for all your help here, and the email you sent me.

I have also started the motor with the boat harness completely disconnected and tried another battery, so I have ruled that out as well.

I have tried 2 timer bases with the same issue so I am not sure that is the cause. If anything, Id like to try another flywheel (even though mine looks great.)

I have disconnected ALL of the wires coming into the powerpack, except for the orange and orange/black from the power coil, and the timer base. Thats IT!!!!!

I suspect bad AC voltage coming in. The new stator tests a little low for resistance (93-103 is spec, and I get 89). ALSO, they painted over everything with the reman powerhead. I had to sand down the contact points for the ignition coils and where the starter grounds to the block. Guess what I didn't sand down? The places where the stator sets on the motor (as seen below). Although, I would think the 4 screws that hold the stator down would be a good enough ground.

 

[clanton]

Nice photo, looks good to me. ​ Stator does not need ground, just a clean block contact for heat transfer.

Have you checked the output voltage and ohms of the power coil (2 orange wires) and output voltage and ohms of timer?

 

[sutor623]

Nice photo, looks good to me. ​ Stator does not need ground, just a clean block contact for heat transfer.

Have you checked the output voltage and ohms of the power coil (2 orange wires) and output voltage and ohms of timer?

Sorry, not really ground but I meant a solid contact with the block.
I think you are on the right track with the test for the power coil and timer base, but they all checked out perfectly, again and again.

So I took the flywheel off, AGAIN!!! Cleaned up the powerhead mounting surface to stator. No love. But, at least I know that I have a good ground now

I talked to Clark at CDI. He is THE man when it comes to these ignition systems. A very hard man to get a hold of. He told me that some motors just misbehave with QS and he believes that it is RFI.

After I went through the list of issues that I have gone through with him, he told me he was pretty sure that I had a bad ignition coil somewhere, leaking RFI into the system. Could be, because I haven't tried to change them. Luckily for me, I have 4 new coils at home that I am going to try.

He also said that for some reason the QL78YC's may give some feedback, and to try the QL78C's instead if the coils dont do it. (It is just an unprojected tipped plug. Not sure what it will do, but he is the man, not me.)

His last suggestion was to swap the orange and orange/black wires, and if that cures the problem just leave them that way.

He also told me that if I disconnect the "advanced" coil off the timer base it should cause NO harm, but he would only do that as a last resort.

 

[clanton]

Check the coils for cracks in the insulation, replace if has cracks. Sparkplug wires should have wire core, no rust on wire end.

 

[sutor623]

Check the coils for cracks in the insulation, replace if has cracks. Sparkplug wires should have wire core, no rust on wire end.

Will do. These old coils have the black rubber potting coming loose and lifting by the ground strap. The plastic casing doesn't look cracked though. Lord knows if there is any corrosion etc. in there. Would this cause interference issues?

Spark plug wires are 20 years old so I am just going to replace them. CDI sells the coil and spark plug wire for $25 each. Can't beat that!!

 

[sutor623]

Update:

I put on brand new ignition coils and spark plug wires, along with new plugs. The problem is STILL present. But, now the motor starts up on super cold days even with the timing skipping back and forth for the first 5 seconds. I have chosen to ground out the white/black wire and advance the throttle during start ups. I have checked/replaced all of the ignition components to not only try and remedy this issue, but also for good measure with this new powerhead.

So, I guess the powerpack is very sensitive to RFI, but I am not going to be concerned with this issue anymore. Just ground it out and be done with it. Not worth keeping me off the water any longer!!