Thank you fellow iboaters'

[Bondo]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

So, after my first lake test I was checking over everything and pulled the dipstick to check the oil, yep water in the oil. And not just a little, it was about 1-2 qt. extra.

I am hoping I don't have a cracked block.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,.... I believe you've got a Crack somewhere...
Headgaskets don't dump water like that....

Drain it, 'n block off the motor's cooling passages, 'n pressurize with air.....
You'll Hear the crack,... follow the sound....
My guess is either the lifter valley, or the inside of the base, opposite the drain plugs....

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Ahh, Bond-o that was not what I was wanting to hear.

Thanks for the warm welcome! I love this site...

 

[achris]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Hey Gunsup,

Nice setup.. Like Bond-o I suspect a cracked block. The 'nice gentleman' you bought it from probably didn't know how to winterise and left water in the block last winter. You seem handy with a spanner, so go out and find a 4.3l block from a car/SUV/truck of the same era and get swapping...

Here's a fantastic site another member posted up on the 4.3l block history. -> http://www.hotsixes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=12 This is very helpful when looking for a replacement block, what with there being so many variations of block on the 4.3l.

After you get through with the engine repair/rebuild/re-block, the next thing I would do (and know I'm going to get shot down for this, but hey), rip that stupid, worthless piece of plastic off the back of the leg!

As for the damaged skeg, it's just cosmetic. I have a friend with the same engine and drive who ran for about 8 years with no skeg at all!

If you are handy with a TIG, or have a tame welder with one, then Merc sell a new skeg you can cut to size and have welded on. Part number is -90185A1, about $46 worth....

Chris..........

 

[achris]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Just a couple of things to look out for on the '94 4.3LX
1. Make sure you have a ground wire on the distributor body.
2. You'll have a 4bbl Weber carburettor. They dribble fuel on shutdown. There is nothing you can do about it, and Merc say 'there is nothing wrong', but there is. On first start for the day you'll need to crank the engine forever to get fuel up to the carb. For starts during the rest of the day you'll need to crank the engine forever to clear the flood. When you do the engine repair, get the starter looked at by an auto-sparkie.. it needs to be in top condition....
3. You have a pressed tin sump. While you have the engine out, get it hot-dip galvanised. That will make the sump last forever....
4. The coil is located in the wrong spot (and you can't change it without a bit of drama), check it for corrosion on the base.
5. Pull the top cover off the drive and throw away the rubber 'dam' in the water jacket. Water collects above the dam and starts corroding the top of the drive from the inside out. Merc stopped putting them in there about 1997 (roughly). Just run a bit of silly sealant around the top of the water cavity before you put the cover back on, and torque the bolts to spec.

Speaking of spec, do you have the manuals? (Proper ones, not seloc/clymer)....

Chris..........

 

[Struc]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

If it does end up being a cracked block, don't worry about it too much. I've found and bought two 4.3l engines out of vehicles for $200 each recently. One of them was a 1992 and the other a 1997 with Vortec heads. They can be had for VERY cheap. Just watch craigslist auto parts section. Swap out the core (freeze) plugs for brass, and you're good to go. You can buy a complete FelPro engine gasket kit for $60 at Advance Auto Parts by using the BIG30 coupon ($30 off anything over $75). Mine just arrived a couple days ago. Exhaust manifold gaskets are different, but you can buy those seperately and still save a ton of cash over buying a full blown marine gasket set.

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Hey Gunsup,

Nice setup.. Like Bond-o I suspect a cracked block. The 'nice gentleman' you bought it from probably didn't know how to winterise and left water in the block last winter. You seem handy with a spanner, so go out and find a 4.3l block from a car/SUV/truck of the same era and get swapping...

Here's a fantastic site another member posted up on the 4.3l block history. -> http://www.hotsixes.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=14&Itemid=12 This is very helpful when looking for a replacement block, what with there being so many variations of block on the 4.3l.

After you get through with the engine repair/rebuild/re-block, the next thing I would do (and know I'm going to get shot down for this, but hey), rip that stupid, worthless piece of plastic off the back of the leg!

As for the damaged skeg, it's just cosmetic. I have a friend with the same engine and drive who ran for about 8 years with no skeg at all!

If you are handy with a TIG, or have a tame welder with one, then Merc sell a new skeg you can cut to size and have welded on. Part number is -90185A1, about $46 worth....

Chris..........

Thanks so much for the info. Chris. The more I dive into the engine the more it is looking like a cracked block. I think I have decided on just bolting on a skeg guard for now, and there is no way I am going to pull that piece of plastic off. That is my dive platform... LOL. Ha, you didn't know it had multiple uses did you?

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Just a couple of things to look out for on the '94 4.3LX
1. Make sure you have a ground wire on the distributor body.
2. You'll have a 4bbl Weber carburettor. They dribble fuel on shutdown. There is nothing you can do about it, and Merc say 'there is nothing wrong', but there is. On first start for the day you'll need to crank the engine forever to get fuel up to the carb. For starts during the rest of the day you'll need to crank the engine forever to clear the flood. When you do the engine repair, get the starter looked at by an auto-sparkie.. it needs to be in top condition....
3. You have a pressed tin sump. While you have the engine out, get it hot-dip galvanised. That will make the sump last forever....
4. The coil is located in the wrong spot (and you can't change it without a bit of drama), check it for corrosion on the base.
5. Pull the top cover off the drive and throw away the rubber 'dam' in the water jacket. Water collects above the dam and starts corroding the top of the drive from the inside out. Merc stopped putting them in there about 1997 (roughly). Just run a bit of silly sealant around the top of the water cavity before you put the cover back on, and torque the bolts to spec.

Speaking of spec, do you have the manuals? (Proper ones, not seloc/clymer)....

Chris..........

If it does end up being a cracked block, don't worry about it too much. I've found and bought two 4.3l engines out of vehicles for $200 each recently. One of them was a 1992 and the other a 1997 with Vortec heads. They can be had for VERY cheap. Just watch craigslist auto parts section. Swap out the core (freeze) plugs for brass, and you're good to go. You can buy a complete FelPro engine gasket kit for $60 at Advance Auto Parts by using the BIG30 coupon ($30 off anything over $75). Mine just arrived a couple days ago. Exhaust manifold gaskets are different, but you can buy those seperately and still save a ton of cash over buying a full blown marine gasket set.

Man you guys are giving me tons of great info. Thanks!

So, there is no big deal in using an automotive 4.3. Especially since I will be swapping everything over? Just making sure.

Oh, and Chris what is a good brand of manuals? I am using a seloc right now and I am not too impressed...

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

I just wanted to give you guys an update and let you know, I still haven't found the source of my leak. The further I go, the more I am getting that sick filling in my gut that it is going to be a cracked block. I pulled my exhaust manifolds off yesterday and filled them with acetone to test them, and they turned out perfect. I have been told that by pouring acetone into the manifold is like pressure testing with up to 20psi due to the 4 times lower surface tension of the acetone over water. Pretty cool. I have also included a video of what my set up looked like so that maybe somewhere down the road it will help someone else out.

 

[Struc]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

So, there is no big deal in using an automotive 4.3. Especially since I will be swapping everything over? Just making sure.

Oh, and Chris what is a good brand of manuals? I am using a seloc right now and I am not too impressed...

Get the factory Mercruiser manuals. They can be had on Ebay for $25-$35 usually. Or watch for someone posting links to a electronic pdf version and download it. I actually prefer the hard copy, but you can get by with an electronic version and just print out the pages you need when you need them.

As far as using a truck block and swapping parts over - yeah, go for it. It's the cheap way to get it done. Blocks are the same - just different parts are put into them (cam, core plugs, intake manifold, etc). If you find a good low mileage engine, you can keep the rotating assy alone too. Pistons/rods/crank are all the same.

 

[achris]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Manuals...

Engine->http://www.4shared.com/document/TcnPb3wU/Service_Manual_18.html
Drive->http://www.4shared.com/document/dPQUcyn_/Service_Manual_14.html

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Thank you for these links! You rock man!

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Guns,
Keep the vids coming... There are tons of pics and vids on the dry dock forum on structure, glassing, etc...but very little on the engines. Being new to boat ownership, and not having a mechanical background, the power systems have been the steepest part of the learning curve for me by far (electrical a close second)...

Thanks for documenting your troubleshoot on the water issue, and I'd love to see more threads like this. I too appreciate the experts chiming in because it helps us newbies...

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Pmccraney, thanks for the feed back. I didn't know if video taping the tare down of an engine would be helpful or not, I just thought I might try it and see what kind of feedback I received. I also wanted to include videos so, if I start making any bone head moves as a first time boat owner, I am hopeful that all the experts on this site will stop me and help me out. Everyone on this site have been so helpful thus far and I am just getting started. I will keep the pics. and videos coming as I continue on this venture!

Thanks man.

 

[joewithaboat]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Welcome to the site.

Your problem seems to be one of the most common type of threads, water in the oil.

My skeg looks just like yours, This below worked great for me all this year. Its currently on sale!

Be sure to consider vortec head upgrades while you are torn down. Its a good clean looking rig you have.
Good luck! Will be watching your posts.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pant...=skeg+graurd&WTz_l=Header;Search-All+Products

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

All right so, I had a little time over the Thanksgiving holiday to get a few things done! I am a sales manager and work in retail so, of course things are hectic this time of year, but I was able to get the upper half of my out drive primed, painted, sanded off the first round of paint, and then re-painted. Yep, the first paint job had to come off. I was not happy with the results. I used Interlux Trilux 33 the first time and as you can see from the video, it did not turn out well. After doing a little research I was either going to use Valspar Tractor and Implement Enamel paint or Rust-Oleum Enamel. I decided to just run down the street to Home Depot and get the Rust-Oleum High Performance Enamel. This paint went on perfect, especially from a rattle can. As you can see from the video it looks awesome.

If any of you guys have used this type of paint before please let me know how this stuff holds up to the elements. I will only be in fresh water and dry store the boat when not in use.

The next step will be to duplicate this process on the lower half of the drive and get it all back together.

Hopefully, everyone had an awesome Thanksgiving and didn't eat too much that they were to full to work on their boats! LOL

Oh, and if my video looks blurry while you are viewing it, please change the youtube settings to 720p HD. I have been shooting in HD, I just realized that.

 

[achris]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

I've just painted my new sump (it came unpainted) and I used an etching primer from a can, then used a cheap spray gun and an epoxy (2 pack) black paint. I used a 2 pack because it's so much harder than spray can paint (harder in product, not use ). I would certainly recommend a 2 pack on the leg, not spray cans. I think you'll be redoing it again after it goes in the water a few times. In the past I have used the Merc touch up paint on my drive, it lasts about 3 trips and then wears off. It's just not hard enough, that's why I went down the 2 pack path with the sump. When the leg needs a repaint, I'll be putting the spray gun to use again.

Chris.........

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Thanks for the info. Chris! Three to four days late, but great future reference...LOL Yeah, I probably should done the extra work. Do you know of any top coat (clear coat) that maybe I could spray on top to help it last longer?

 

[achris]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

Thanks for the info. Chris! Three to four days late, ...

Had you posted that you intended to paint, I would have given the same advise... Then you would have had it earlier....
Any top coat would also have to be enamel...

 

[gunsup007]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

So, I'm finally back. I've been wanting to work on the boat for a while, but I guess you could say it just hasn't been the top priority lately.

I have had some time in the last week or so, and have been able to start the tear-down of my engine in order to figure out why I was getting water in my oil. Well it turned out to be the worst case scenario. It is a cracked block. I have a crack running along the top of the block right under the intake manifold, and in-between cylinders 1 and 3. I have inserted pictures so, you can see exactly what I found. On top of that I found out that the water circulating pump is cracked as well, and even though I pressure tested my exhaust manifolds I found that there was a crack in my port side manifold as well. I guess since there isn't a lot of pressure inside the manifolds, it had rusted it's self back together. I think I am just going to use some JB Weld to seal the manifold. I hope it will hold for a season or two, since I am going to be spending enough on the motor right now. I have gone back and forth for weeks deciding whether I was just going to find a used block somewhere and rebuild the motor myself, or just order a long block that was already rebuilt. Well I broke down and after a lot of research and deliberation, have decided to order my long block from US Engines. So, my long block from them will be a little supped up. They have increased the horsepower by 50 and the torque by like 27. My little 4.3L with the 4 barrel carb should now be around 255HP. SWEET! Those are numbers close to an older 350. And it comes with a 7 year or 500 hour warranty. Nice!

Now for my questions:

-Has anyone ever ordered a motor from www.usenginesinc.com before? If so, what was your experience like?
-With the increase in horsepower, will I or should I make any other adjustments? I'm hoping not so, I don't have to spend any more money.
-There is a serial number on my current engine that matches my current title, do I have to change it on my title? If so, how? It has to be okay, because I'm sure folks have to change their engines out all the time.
-Do you think the JB Weld on the exhaust manifolds is a good idea?

I look forward to all your replies and help.

Thanks!!!

 

[Struc]

Re: Thank you fellow iboaters'

-With the increase in horsepower, will I or should I make any other adjustments? I'm hoping not so, I don't have to spend any more money.

You'll be fine with what you have. With the extra HP, you could probably change your prop and get more speed out of it, but it certainly isn't necessary.

-Do you think the JB Weld on the exhaust manifolds is a good idea?

How much are you spending on your new engine? How much time are you putting into it? Do you want to put busted exhaust manifolds on your brand new engine?

Click on the link in my signature for my parts boat destruction. That's what the previous owner of that boat did.