transom and Stringers

[Woodonglass]

Wood, do you mean by drilling holes in the outer fiberglass skin? Or the 2 pieces of ply on the inside for the mechanical bond?

NO!!! Only in the wood transom!! We have a member "Nurseman" that, IMHO, did one of the best transom installs that's ever been done here on the forum. It's for an Outboard Boat but...the principles are the same. It starts here...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...69#post8278669
Install is here...http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...s-total-gut-and-rebuild?p=8512409#post8512409

and continues for several posts. I'd Highly recommend you study these posts and follow what he does. He used Poly resin but again the methods will be very similar. When you glue your wood together If you use the TB III I'd recommend using Deck screws as described in my link. Then once it's cured remove em and then drill the holes for the PB to ooze thru. If you draw a rough out line of where the Keyhole will be for the outdrive then you won't need ooze holes in that area. You'll need about a 1/2 gallon of TB III to glue the transom together. Maybe a little less. Make sure all areas are cover with a thin coat does not require a heavy coat. Pour it on and then use a plastic bondo spreader or a plastic putty knife to spread it around. It needs to be 60 degrees + in order for the glue to cure properly. Kinda like Resin!!!

 

[CT River Runner]

Good read Wood! That was a great job he did. That's exactly how I'm doing mine. Clamp method will be different, but everything else I'm doing the same. I'm going to do my transom before I end up ripping up the rest of the Stringers, just so I can get measurements. Thank you soo much for the help

 

[CT River Runner]

I'll post pics along the way so everyone can see

 

[kcassells]

Dave,
Don't forget to "DOO" the dog test grub recommended.

 

[CT River Runner]

What type of ply was that again. Looks likea sanded Pine? I was planning on using Douglas fir cd?

 

[kcassells]

ACX, BCX 5 to 7 ply. Exterior grade glues used to bind the wood. CD has a lot of of voids but has been used.

 

[jigngrub]

Home Depot has some pretty good looking SYP 3/4" CDX right now. The edges aren't filled or sealed and you can see that the voids are few and small.

If you're going to go for the 2-1/4" thick transom with 3 layers of 3/4" CDX I strongly suggest you screw or clamp and screw the sheets together tightly when bonding them together.

 

[Woodonglass]

I would NOT recommend using CDX for any of your wood layups in your restoration. If you read up on how its made it's just NOT that good of a product. Will it work, yeah probably, but for a few bucks more, and a little more searching, you can find a better grade of wood. Do you have some local Lumber yards that might carry some ACX or some Floor Underlayment?

 

[CT River Runner]

Yes wood. They have an ac which Is sanded on one side and rough on the other. A for the sanded side and c for the rough side? X for exterior? Plus I noticed nurseman not tabbing in his transom, he just lays 1708 twice over the transom over lapping the hull. Is that something I can do? (Don't worry about the dog s*&# challenge! Its happening)

 

[CT River Runner]

Plus I'm not going to laminate 3 pieces of ply together. That then the glue, then 170 biaxial cloth. .... I'll be way to fat and have to grind down to fit the transom assembly. 2 1/4" is the max spec for valvo/mercruiser. I would rather just add another layer of 170 biaxle cloth to get to my desired spec.

 

[CT River Runner]

Sorry for the name change boys. Name did not fit with all your fancy nik names. ..... haha

 

[kcassells]

Sorry for the name change boys. Name did not fit with all your fancy nik names. ..... haha

Yup..your on the right path now. AC or BC is the way to go. Most of the time its about whats they have when you go there to buy it. Cause you have a hankering to get the work done. Keep up with the other threads and the HOW TOOs in search. Lots a good reading.

 

[kcassells]

What do you mean by to thin? I am assuming Theresa required thickness then? I've read several threads on people having two layers of glass on the inside.

If you were making the PB {peanut butter} I was referring to not making it so thin that it rolls off like pancake syrup. Add cabosil just to give you a fuller/workable
material. Kinda like spackle out of a 5 gal bucket.

 

[jigngrub]

People without a discerning eye and a knowledge of lumber are better off following the crowd. I tend to forget not everyone works in the building trade or works with lumber daily... but there are alternative materials for those interested.

Some people would never dream of using OSB to build a boat even though a $10 mil. yacht has been made out of it. It's all in knowing what material you have and how to work with it.

 

[Woodonglass]

CTRR,

By the way I like your Name Change, I thought you might like some info on the CDX plywood. Like I said, it would work. Heck if you put enuf Resin on it you could build a boat out of cardboard but I wouldn't advise it!!!! But, If your budget is such that you need to go CHEAP then sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I'd encourage you to use the best materials that you can afford. All the voids and knot holes in the CDX have to be dealt with before you glass over it cuz if you don't they'll make your life miserable when you try to lay your 1708 over the top. Anyone who's ever done any glassing KNOW's what I'm talking about. You want your surface to be void free and smooth as a baby's bottom. Might as well get plywood that has a surface that's already that way. The voids in the inner lams can cause issues too when you go to mount your motor and other accessories too. You want your transom wood to be as sollid as possible.
CDX Grade comes from US voluntary plywood Standard PS1-95 for Construction and Industrial Plywood established by APA ? The Engineered Wood Association.
"CDX" is not the name of a plywood grade . CDX stands for "C-D Exposure 1 plywood" . C-D means that one side of the plywood is rated "C" grade and the other side is rated "D" grade . The letter "X" means the glue of the plywood is exterior glue . But CDX plywood is not exterior plywood . Because usually the core veneers for CDX plywood are not as good as exterior plywood. CDX plywood is moisture resistant but can not be exposed to water or weather for long time .

CDX plywood is a kind of economical plywood . Usually CDX plywood are sanded but not polished . So the face/back of CDX plywood is rough . Some knots and knot holes exist in the face/back .
As construction and industrial plywood, CDX plywood is usually used as wall sheathing, roofing and so on .


http://buyleedlumber.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Y510.pdf

 

[CT River Runner]

Ok. SO AC ply should be ok? Put the two rougher towards the inside where I'll be using the tb 3. Then I'll have the nicest sanded ply towards the hull side and the fiberglass side. Smooth for both. That's what you recommend? That's Not a problem. I'm going to get a lot done this weekend. I'll post pics as I go.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup and if the surface is really rough I'd sand it with 60 grit first before glue up to smooth it up a bit. If it has any major knot holes or voids in the surface I'd recommend filling them with some PB first too. Don't get too messy with the PB you want as much clean wood surface as you can get so the TB III can adhere well. Use ample TB III so you get some ooze out when you shoot the screws to it.

 

[CT River Runner]

Will do. Did you read the post where I asked you if you saw nurseman tab in his transom? I didn't notice that. It looks like he just went over twice with 1708? Is that something I can do? Or should I tab it in.

 

[kcassells]

Absolutely, that's called wet on wet. It's also a stronger bond. If practical it's the best way to do it. you are still "tabbing"" but running up the height of wood.

 

[CT River Runner]

Ok so I don't have to cut individual tabbing pieces, I can just run my 2 courses of biaxial cloth?