Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

jcsercsa

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

What about dumpimg some more epoxy in there ??? John
 

BobsGlasstream

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

That would be a major bummer.:(
A couple questions.
What makes you think you have more voids in it???
When you clamped it, did you have PL squeeze out into the transom opening all the way around?
Bob
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Bob,

No, and that is what started my concern. also, tapping with my fist on some areas, i can feel it flex. I don't think i put it on thick enough to account for the little bit of warp and honestly, I think i got some bad PL. I didn't like how it dried initially when I was playing around with some over spill. At any rate, I don't think I can accept knowing it isn't right. I think if i can get the PB cut out good around the edges that it will come off without too much trouble, prying it off from through the outdrive hole.

John: I don't think i'd be confident I got it all.

Red: ummm, no. Lol.
 

BobsGlasstream

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

83mulligan,
You may want to look at getting a toe kick saw from HF. They allow you to get very close to the haul and make short work of cutting the PB. The down side to that saw is that it only cuts 3/4" depth.
Really sorry to hear about your issues. That stinks. If the PL wasn't very thick it probably just dried on you to quick.
Good luck
Bob
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Well, I let my anger subside long enough then I went back at it today. I have a 3 ft. by 1" piece of stainless that i used the grinder to make a "transom motivator" with. I pried it in and started tapping. It goes through between the hull and transom pretty easily. Cut the PB all the way around. Can get in from the top pretty far. The problem is the corners. I cannot get the transom to budge there. I can probably a half inch space along the top.

I'm considering making up a thin version of pb, really hairy with lots of 1/4" strand and microballoons and pouring it from the top with it shimmed till full then pulling the shims and reclamping. Thoughts?

here are some pics, I could easily inject the pb mix around the transom hole and lower part of hull..............

P6300165.jpg


P6300166.jpg
 

ondarvr

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

That's a tricky one. If there was very little or no PL in there then using epoxy and clamping would be fine, the PL may cause problems with the epoxy bonding though.
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

That's a tricky one. If there was very little or no PL in there then using epoxy and clamping would be fine, the PL may cause problems with the epoxy bonding though.

its not that there is none on very little, it just wasn't enough. Some spots are bound tight. I can't get it out. Will the epoxy bond to PL?
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

well, pouring is just not going to work. I put the clamp back on dry and it just doesn't seal up. Too much stuff got behind it, including a small shim. Sigh. I have to get the transom out.
 

jcsercsa

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

OOOOOOHHHHHH MAN !!!!!!!!!!!!! John
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Well, progress update. I feel like such an idiot. I don't know why I had to decide to pull the transom off. I guess I was just not happy with the PL bond. and rightfully so. I scraped all i could off working through the transom hole with a 3 ft. piece of steel and the pl is very easy to sepeerate. However, where i poured the epoxy down in from the top, its a no go. I have put a chisel through the outer skin trying to break it from the top. I don't think i can do any more by scraping. Prying either. The points that are stuck are stuck and prying against the outer skin is no good. Next step is to make sure its cut all the way around the edges then try and pull it off with a come a long. I don't know if this will work or not. If it doesn't, chainsaw and dumpster for the boat.
 

redfury

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Whoa there! Lets consider one other option before the wrecking ball comes out!

IF, and I say IF because I'm not there looking at the boat....

IF the bond around the perimeter of the transom is GOOD, then why not cut the inside section of the skin off, clean up the transom, and then reglue the skin back on? Really, the strength is going to be from the outer edges of the transom and the transom itself, not the skin around the outdrive hole. That's merely there for its good looks. If you can pry around that area and remove it, then square it off and cut the skin off from around the outdrive hole to the point where you got voids. There are plenty of transoms removed and replaced from the outside in...if you leave the curvature of the corners of the hull intact, along with a healthy sized tab, then all you'll end up having to do is grind a nice taper off either side of your cut and then do some glasswork. Lots easier than pulling that transom out, and you can ensure the bond between the outer skin and the transom itself.

I mean, hell, it's IN PLACE and not moving. It SOUNDS to me that you just aren't comfortable with the outer skins contact with the transom itself.

You have LESS to REDO, if you do it this way, vs trying to remove the transom itself, and it will still be plenty strong. If you have concerns about the transom transmitting force to the rest of the hull, you can always reinforce it with more glass.
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Red, that is a viable option to consider. I'm kicking myself for the route i took that got me here in the first place. I think putting some pressure on it will get it to pop. I've already done tons of mindless work breaking the bond, so the bond on the perimeter is essentially gone. I could cut the skin and rebond that part. The transom itself is far stronger than the skin and you are right i didn't like the bond or the voids. hence why i'm at this point. Thanks for the suggestion. We'll see where this leads. I'm on vacation for a few days. Be good to let my mind decompress from this. Thanks for the input!!
 

redfury

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Sometimes when you are at your wits end, it's best to just leave and go do something else for a while, let your mind wander and then come back to it. Your brain won't be so fried, and you might have an epiphany in the mean time as to the best plan of attack.

Used to happen to me all the time working on tracked vehicles for the Army...certain things just wouldn't come out and I'd blow up at the vehicle in disgust and frustration. Off to lunch and when I'd come back, everything went smoothly because I had a chance to relax and allow myself to tackle the job from another unique approach...most times it was successful.

This is however, one of the reasons I took up smoking in the Army...:p
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Red, good advice. Appreciate it. Taking a break from it helped. I got home from 4th of july mini vacation and started tinkering. I bolted a piece of angle across the transom and used a heavy duty pry bar. It moved some. 1/8" i'd guess. I need to make sure i'm trough across the bottom joint. I know i'm not in a lot of places. Also need to do some more work along the sides. I think it will go this way. I hope it will.

Red, I got to thinking about your idea of cutting off the skin. I'd still need to get it off the back of the transom. Either way it has to come off. I'll keep going at it this way. If it just won't work, that will be the next step.
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

well, i'm still having one heck of a time getting this transom pulled off. Man, it is stuck good in spots. Like the bottom and sides. I'm trying to pull it with a come a long. Top center, nope. Pulls, but just will not break the sides free. This is so frustrating.
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

If anyone is still reading ths...........The transom is OFF!!!!

I cut part of the skin off around the lifting hook on the transom. Then I reversed the lifting hook and attached it to a come along which was fastened to a forward stringer. It was all i could attach to.

P7100168.jpg


P7100170.jpg


I started cranking it and I'll be, I finally heard the sound of glue seperating.

P7100174.jpg


Pulled it as far as i could on that side and then switched back to top center and off she came............

P7100175.jpg


You can see the shiny glue where it was troweled and wasn't in contact with the transom..........

P7100176.jpg


This method worked pretty well, however, i didn't have the bond completely cut under one corner and it cracked there. I'm hoping this is just in the gelcoat and can be easily repaired.

P7100178.jpg
 

redfury

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Well, at least your sense on the poor overall bond is verified! Can I assume that then next time you'll be going the route of Oops!'s super duper peanut butter?

I think the PL works great as an adhesive for transoms, especially considering the amount of effort it took for you to pry that off.

However, I think it's going to be best suited for smaller transoms or situations where you can guarantee that the skin will have FULL contact with the transom wood.

Nice thing is, the skin is still intact and the areas you cut can easily be built back up and not affect the performance of the hull.
 

BobsGlasstream

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey 83mulligan,
Sorry I haven't been around much lately. Life getting in the way again.
That's a real bummer about the transom.
Whichever way you decide to go next time, just remember to use enough material to get a good squeeze or you will have the same problem.
Take care
Bob
 

83mulligan

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

bob and red: Thanks guys. yep, verified my concerns. That batch of PL I just wasn't impressed with. It's very easy to peel off both surfaces. It held pretty tight around the edges and yes, it was a royal pain to get off. However, i think i'll be going with epoxy this next time.

Bob, yes, you are right. This time I'll trowel both surfaces and make sure its heavy enough in the void areas from last time. Also, that transom has a little curve to it and with 4 sheets of 1708 in it, clamps just don't take it out. So I may try and build up the middle with another sheet of 1708 to make it straight across.

Bottom line, i have to clean it up and do a better job of application this time. I was in a rush to get it in and didn't take the time to survey it properly. This time i will. After all that, i'm still glad i decided to pull it out and do it correctly. Sigh.
 

tdrudd87

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Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey 83, sounds like a tough break. Glad you have a plan to go forward.

Have you thought about using a PB mixture, made up just a little looser than PL so it flows and clamps easier? Not trying to throw a wrench in your works, but thats how I did mine and had plenty squirt through all the holes and around the edges.

Then again, a nice thick layer of PL would probably do just as well...you are using the super sized 28oz contractor tubes right?

Terry
 
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