Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

my stringers were 3/4 " single ply (except for the keel, don't know why that one was different.) Why, are your's 2-ply?

I haven't gotten into them that far yet. I was just curious what you found. I guess I was assuming they were double 3/4 ply. I'm glad they aren't, less material.

I'm not following your definition of "keel stringer" i guess. It has me confused. My Gas tank and engine sit on the same plane on the floor. I think the "sole" they sit on is fine. Are you talking about the stringers that support the deck inboard of the two main stringers? On mine those are glassed into a ply bracket that is glassed to the bulkheads fore and aft of the gas tank.

 

[58hydraglide]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

83,

I have 2 main stringers that are roughly 39" apart ( 19" from either side of the center of the boat. The keel stringer runs down the center of the hull, aft to stern.(the very center and bottom of the hull.) The keel stringer is below the deck in the engine and gas tank bay (yes, they are on the same plane) the main deck is about 12" above the engine/gas tank deck and then drops down once you get to the helm. I have a teak grate that covers the gas tank and is at the same level as the main deck. Yes, I am talking about the stringer that supports the deck inboard of the main stringers BUT, on mine, the edges of the engine/gas tank deck run directly to the bottom of the hull (port and starboard). Our hulls might be a little different in design. If you need some pics, let me know. BTW the keel stringer is only about 3-4" tall.

 

[58hydraglide]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

If that doesn't help, I'll take some pics of the main stringers and keel stringer and try and provide more detail. we'll get it figured out.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Mike, check out page 1 post 13 in this thread. Is the mini stringer in the middle my keel stringer? Sounds like the same layout as your boat just a bit narrower and a few feet shorter. I'm guessing that extends back all the way to the stern, now that I'm understanding it better. I don't know why there are two mini stringers in there. One on the keel, on starboard and no port????

 

[58hydraglide]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

83,
I looked at the pics and read through the thread. Where exactly is this located in the boat? (fore and aft) maybe some zoomed out pics of the surrounding area to get my bearings straight. Was that where the gas tank was placed? I'm not so sure they are "stringers" per say. I think our hull design are a little different.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

its just forward of the helm. It's the basin that is just aft of your porta potty. I've got a pic of the hull with the windshield off and gas tank out. I'll post it in a little while.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Ok, here are the pics of the gas tank out and the windshield off. 58, you can see the well i'm talking about just forward of the helm through the door opening.

 

[58hydraglide]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

83,

OK, now we're getting somewhere. If you were to take the floor out of the gas tank hole, you would find the keel stringer running right down the center of the hull. All of your stringers will end somewhere before the hull sides meet the bow. (just ahead of the helm for instance.) As the hull starts to form the bow, the chines merge closer, the hull has a tighter curve, and there is less "flat area" in the hull that requires reinforcement. (the curves and chine provide reinforcement). I will bet that the "stringers" in question in your boat are probably molded in to provide a mounting surface for something (toilet?) and not stringers at all. As you said they are starboard and center but not port. That wouldn't make sense. I'm not sure if your boat had a toilet option or not. I'll do a little research ans see if I can't find some specs on your boat.

Mike

 

[58hydraglide]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Now it IS possible that the "center stringer" in that basin is indeed part of the keel stringer but no taller than it is it would'nt provide a whole lot of hull strength at that point. at that point they are run that far forward to provided structure to mount decks or cabin framework to. The keel stringers usually run the farthest forward.

Does that help?

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

hey, yeah, i actually feel like I AM getting somewhere! I'll be interested in the response to your foam quesion, as I'm sure I'll encounter the same thing with a bit less volume of foam to consider. Also, did you do all your work on a trailer? mine is on a roller trailer. that should be plenty of support, don't you think?

The floors in the engine and gas tank wells are very solid. no flex at all. The bulkhead forward of the gastank is rotten though. It has foam in the compartment between the gas tank well and helm wall (if that's what you call it) then my water damaged well is next, then the covered bow area. I'm really hoping to not have to tear up that forwardmost bulkhead and floor piece up under the bow. Do you think there is foam in the area forward of the last bulkhead?

 

[58hydraglide]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Yes, I did all of the so far whil it was on the trailer. My trailer is a bunk style though and I think you'll find differing opinions on the different types of trailers regarding the work that you're doing. I would say that it would be adaquate support, particularly since the drive system is removed. Plus, as you, I left the engine bay deck intact , to about 4' forward of the transom. That provides a lot of strength to the bottom of the hull. I removed the inner AND outer glass on my transom. When it came to to replace it I used the old skin as a template. Once my transom plys were prepped for installation, I used the old skin as a template and braced the hull with 2x4s taking care to ensure an even gap all around the old skin. I used a die grinder and cut off wheel to cut out the old skin so I had a narrow kerf to use as a guideline.
I'm afraid to say, but you may find rot up in the bow. Try drilling a small hole as far doen as you can in that basin in the cabin. Drill it forward towards the bow and see what the wood shavings look like and keep an eye on it for water drainage. It may take awhile.

Something else. I would strip tha boat af all of the rest of the interior trim etc. anything you can remove that isn't a major project. Get it out of the way, because as you'll find when you start grinding it's gonna get messy. Besides that. It's easier to see each task at hand without any undue clutter. in other words get those shelves built in the basement and fill em up! and remember, one step at a time. Heck my boat started out as a simple outdrive reseal!!

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

outdrive reseal, eh? how good at that are you? good enough to teach me, lol? Shelves have been in place for a week. 24 linear feet of "marine center". I'm looking forward to getting her in the garage this week so i can start the demolition phase. I need to figure out what order the transom plate, bell housing stuff comes off. When I'm feeling overwhelmed I just go read Oop's Hull Extension thread and my project seems more manageable!

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Ok, i'm kind of at a crossroads here. I need some advice because I need to start buying some plywood and getting it dried. I'm going to use AC or BC ply for the deck. Whatever is available. Right now, the deck is 1/2" ply glassed in. I'd replace it with the same, but I have a huge stockpile of teak that I am going to overlay on the new glassed in plywood on the deck. It is 1/4" batting. I don't want to add any more weight than I have to because I eventually want to put a hard top and rocket launcher on this boat and I'm adding an 8 horse high thrust yamaha and bracket to the back as well. I got the teak from a salvage yard for a heck of a deal and now I have to figure out how to use it. I don't want 500 screw holes in my new deck, so I'm contemplating using an adhesive over the fiberglass. Another option I've been kicking around is to use an adhesive to attach the teak to a freezer cooler panel and then shoe molding that at the deck edges over the plywood. A floating floor concept, so to speak. This would allow me to remove it, if needed in the future without destroying the teak.

So, in a nutshell, thickness of ply to use and methods for fastening the teak batting is what i'm asking for help with. Here is a pic of all the teak i'm going to be using:

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Another question for the experienced here----The boat is on an ez loader roller trailer. Dual axle, two rows of rollers each side. One row is pretty close to right under the two main stringers. I would like to leave it on there, but need some opinions as to whether its enough support. I'm thinking it is, but need some thoughts.

--I took the windshield off so it will fit under garage door. I can put it back on once in if its important, or build a frame using the windshield bolt holes too.

--The cap is staying on.

--I will have to cut the helm wall free from the deck to pull the deck.

--plan to replace the transom first, then starboard stringer, then port stringer cutting the bulkheads free as i replace the stringers. I may have to cut the stringers back a couple feet to get the transom out and new one in.

what are your thoughts on bracing needed?

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hay steve , If your leaving the top on you shouldnt need the bracing !! is she staying on the trailor?? if not you just need to brace the bottom good !! John

 

[redfury]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Two thoughts. One, teak is an oily wood, so you will want to make sure you have an adhesive that will actually stick to teak without it eventually loosening.

Two, if you make the teak as a "floating floor", you take the chance of trapping water/moisture between the floater and the subfloor. You'll end up with mildew at the least and rot at the worst.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Two thoughts. One, teak is an oily wood, so you will want to make sure you have an adhesive that will actually stick to teak without it eventually loosening.

Two, if you make the teak as a "floating floor", you take the chance of trapping water/moisture between the floater and the subfloor. You'll end up with mildew at the least and rot at the worst.

good points red. I've thought about the water entrapment issue. its certainly valid. One of the primary reason for making it a floating floor is so that I could remove it periodically and sand it down on a bench. 3 sections that pop right out. A bead of caulk should keep water intrusion out on an annual basis. The question becomes do i stay motivated enough to yank out the floating floor and refinish it EVERY year.

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

HAy Steve whats going on ?? been on her ???? John

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

been cleaning the garage to make an organized spot for her. It's almost done! Today my mom and dad came over (mom's bday) and then i had to go down to my shed and do some flood control work. I haven't seen the water this high in my backyard since i've lived here. I had trenched a gas and electrical and sattelite tv line out to the shed and hadn't filled it back because i still need to work on some broken sprinkler irrigation lines in it. It's acting like a conduit for the water and was starting to wash out the dirt around one corner of the cement slab.

Should have the boat in Tuesday night. Oh, and traded compressors with dad so i can use my little die grinder for most of the glass cutting.

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

been cleaning the garage to make an organized spot for her. It's almost done! Today my mom and dad came over (mom's bday) and then i had to go down to my shed and do some flood control work. I haven't seen the water this high in my backyard since i've lived here. I had trenched a gas and electrical and sattelite tv line out to the shed and hadn't filled it back because i still need to work on some broken sprinkler irrigation lines in it. It's acting like a conduit for the water and was starting to wash out the dirt around one corner of the cement slab.

Should have the boat in Tuesday night. Oh, and traded compressors with dad so i can use my little die grinder for most of the glass cutting.

Very cool !! Thanks for stopping for some tex !!! I didnt think of that , Bass PRo shop would have it !! Gander Montain didnt have it , the last time i was there !! Did you see they gotton rid of there big boat at gander??'

Hay how was the boat show at Brich Run ?/? how was that guy ???? learn anyting ???? John