What year is this Johnson?

matt167

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alrigh, i think compression is good, it has one heck of a time to get going, but once warm she is golden (only took out once due to the boat needing an overhaul)

what carbs can i get to do what you described along with reeds, i cannot find crap for this. even a piston rebuild kit. i emphasize on that cause that is what will need at some point and there is no point in sinking money into a motor i cannot rebuild IMHO

pistons appear to be NLA from the manufacture but there should be some floating around. Have a BRP/ Evinrude dealer do a nationwide search. Some places will come up. That said, if it's got good equal compression and the pistons you have zero need for a rebuild

The carbs from a 60hp 2cyl I'm pretty sure will fit right on. You could also put on the complete later 60hp powerhead. They built the engine into the 80's. You may run into the exhaust being different or things like that. If your not happy with the motor just replace it.
 

Scherfz1

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pistons appear to be NLA from the manufacture but there should be some floating around. Have a BRP/ Evinrude dealer do a nationwide search. Some places will come up. That said, if it's got good equal compression and the pistons you have zero need for a rebuild

The carbs from a 60hp 2cyl I'm pretty sure will fit right on. You could also put on the complete later 60hp powerhead. They built the engine into the 80's. You may run into the exhaust being different or things like that. If your not happy with the motor just replace it.

i know that if compression checks good there is no reason to rebuild, i just want to know i can get them or get them and have them on standby in the event.

as for not being happy with the motor, the motor is fine, bigger is always nice but hp rating is the "issue", 50 is my max but i am willing to bust that within reason....

as for the power head replacement. where can i fine a list of compatible ones? throwing a 60hp on it doesn't sound like a bad gig and if it allows me to get an 80's model power head on it i am game to it. those parts i can find all day long for the most part.
 

Scherfz1

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Well----- if there is no " shift cable " then it is electric shift !!

Ya lol just had that thought after I initially posted that reply LOL

now time to try to figure out what 80’s model power head that could fit on it lol
 

thegipper

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OP, make sure you use the correct lower unit oil for this motor. It requires "premium blend" lower unit oil and can be a little difficult to find. Thankfully, my local marina is still carrying it...for now. I have a 1971 60hp that has the same shifting setup. As many issues as I've had with the rest of the motor, knock on wood, the shifting has always been dead on reliable.
 

Scherfz1

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OP, make sure you use the correct lower unit oil for this motor. It requires "premium blend" lower unit oil and can be a little difficult to find. Thankfully, my local marina is still carrying it...for now. I have a 1971 60hp that has the same shifting setup. As many issues as I've had with the rest of the motor, knock on wood, the shifting has always been dead on reliable.

good to know, i will order some and remove what i just put in it.

also do i fill it like a normal lower unit? keep pumping till it overflows?
 

RaisedByWolves

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Oct 4, 2017
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alrigh, i think compression is good, it has one heck of a time to get going, but once warm she is golden (only took out once due to the boat needing an overhaul)

what carbs can i get to do what you described along with reeds, i cannot find crap for this. even a piston rebuild kit. i emphasize on that cause that is what will need at some point and there is no point in sinking money into a motor i cannot rebuild IMHO

Reeds would be the last thing I would do unless it is a known fix for an issue.

You might gain 1mph on the top end for a couple hundred bucks.

Swapping for bigger carbs and optimizing your prop will give the most effective gains.
 

Scherfz1

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Reeds would be the last thing I would do unless it is a known fix for an issue.

You might gain 1mph on the top end for a couple hundred bucks.

Swapping for bigger carbs and optimizing your prop will give the most effective gains.

cool beans, a i know reeds can cause running issues in dirt bikes and crap, maybe thought that might have some thing to do with my starting issue possibly
 

racerone

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Gasket between block and exhaust housing is the same for 1972 and 2005 models of this engine block !!-----All blocks to 1988 or so will bolt on !!------After that and in 1993 crankshaft spline got bigger----Gasket even appears to be used in 2011 E-tech models.
 

Scherfz1

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Gasket between block and exhaust housing is the same for 1972 and 2005 models of this engine block !!-----All blocks to 1988 or so will bolt on !!------After that and in 1993 crankshaft spline got bigger----Gasket even appears to be used in 2011 E-tech models.

hell flipping ya man, thats is some darn good info there!!!!!! you my friend are my new best friend!!!!!!
 

MTboatguy

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1 Have the 73 version of that in an Evinrude, it has been a good engine until just the last couple of weeks and I can't get any fire out of it, so thinking maybe I have a problem in the kill switch wire, but when it runs, it runs strong, it is currently on my 73 Starcraft SS160. I have had no problems finding parts for mine, but as long as the compression is good there is no reason to rebuild it. I am getting ready to repower with a 65 HP mercury that I horse traded for. The 73 is the manual shift model.
 

Scherfz1

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1 Have the 73 version of that in an Evinrude, it has been a good engine until just the last couple of weeks and I can't get any fire out of it, so thinking maybe I have a problem in the kill switch wire, but when it runs, it runs strong, it is currently on my 73 Starcraft SS160. I have had no problems finding parts for mine, but as long as the compression is good there is no reason to rebuild it. I am getting ready to repower with a 65 HP mercury that I horse traded for. The 73 is the manual shift model.

i don't plan on rebuilding if the compression is good, my issue is pouring money into a motor that once it blows up, id like to rebuild it.

hell id like to change out the prop, clean carbs or go bigger on them and so on, but that a waste of money and time if pistons are no longer being made and i defiantly dont have money for custom remakes.
 

MTboatguy

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I have had good luck finding just about anything I need in the past on the big auction website, I have a few trusted sellers that I normally can get parts from for even for my 1962 Big Twin motors.
 

Scherfz1

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well i am interested in doing a power head swap, that seem straight forward enough if need be. wonder how much gain i would get out of a three cylinder lol
 

jimmbo

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May 24, 2004
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1 Have the 73 version of that in an Evinrude,... The 73 is the manual shift model.

It is a Hydro-Mechanical Shift model. like the hydro Electric there is an Oil Pump to provide the shifting action, with what OMC called "Positive Mechanical Follow Through". Unlike the Hydro-Electric, which shifted in and out very quick, these only shift as fast as the operator moves the gearshift lever. To increase life of the Dog Gear, OMC undercut the dogs, providing a minor Locking of the gear-dog. To place less strain on the Shift Cable, and Linkages when trying to shift out of Forward into Neutral, it was decided to utilize Hydraulic power to assist,
 

MTboatguy

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It is a Hydro-Mechanical Shift model. like the hydro Electric there is an Oil Pump to provide the shifting action, with what OMC called "Positive Mechanical Follow Through". Unlike the Hydro-Electric, which shifted in and out very quick, these only shift as fast as the operator moves the gearshift lever. To increase life of the Dog Gear, OMC undercut the dogs, providing a minor Locking of the gear-dog. To place less strain on the Shift Cable, and Linkages when trying to shift out of Forward into Neutral, it was decided to utilize Hydraulic power to assist,

Jim, I didn't see anything to indicate Hydraulic power assist when I rebuilt the lower unit, is it located somewhere else?
 

jimmbo

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Are you sure you have a 73?



In 1975 the Assisted Shift was dropped on the 50hp and 70hp models.

The Hydraulic pump was located in the same Location as it was on the Hydro-Electric Models, in front of and driven by the Forward Gear, but instead of Solenoid Controlled Valving, a Shift Rod controlled the Oil Flown and also moved the Clutch Dog
 

Scherfz1

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So I found a somewhat complete powerhead from a 82 Evinrude 55hp that is ready for rebuild. This also should bolt right up to my Johnson 72 lower correct? And a rebuild kit with a 3.187 bore correct?

Thanks for the help,
zack
 
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