MC-1 Drive Dog failure?

[Pmt133]

5/16 and 8mm are virtually the same size. Especially in a low-torque situation like these hose clamps.

In any case, nothing locally available, so hopefully a 1/4" u joint and a non-deep socket will clear... not nearly as tight as the previous trim wiring job (where a very-low-profile MAC 7/16" u-joint socket was the only way to get there with the drive and bellows in place). In both cases I will be using an 18" extension bought specifically for the latter job.

It's 50/50 if I can get an 8mm on a hose clamp or not. The drive ones may be okay, the ones at work don't fit all that well and usually hop off...

Those carb adjuster screwdrivers (the cable ones) work well for that as well. Stick a nut driver adapter in the end

 

[ratdude747]

Working on the bell housing and having an issue.

Seems the new lower bushing is very sloppy compared to the old bushing. The upgraded upper bushing fits the shaft fine. Is this intentional? Or am I correct to put the old bushing back in?

 

[Pmt133]

Define sloppy... fit to the shift shaft or fit to the bellhousing? There is a little play in the lower for the foot to move around and align if memory serves.

 

[ratdude747]

Define sloppy... fit to the shift shaft or fit to the bellhousing? There is a little play in the lower for the foot to move around and align if memory serves.

Sloppy on the shaft.That said, from what I'm reading this is common/normal.

 

[ratdude747]

More work done today:

• Shift cable and bellows removed (I ran some coated wire rope to maintain the routing).
• Bellhousing tapped. Didn't cut metal; seems the threads were always all the way thru and the tap is just to clean junk from said threads?
• Per my prior posts, swapped shift shaft bushings. Waiting to install the shaft and lever until I'm closer to installing the outdrive (avoid exposed grease)
• Outdrive lubricated (U joint grease and gearcase oil) and prop/hydrofoil reinstalled.

Next step will be bellows swapping and new cable installation, followed by outdrive installation. Getting closer...

 

[ratdude747]

Frustrating day. The theme is "messed over by tools" (what I wanted to type is a bit more colorful, if you like!)

First issue was getting the shift cable threaded into the bellhousing. As it turns out, I erred by buying a cheap socket on eBay.

(file uploads aren't working, so no pic)

Notably, they're made with 15mm sockets (not 9/16 or 14mm as they should be) that are only thinned partially down the length (still hits case side) and only are good for mangling the threads on the shift cable.

Went to the Auto Zone down the road intending to buy a socket to weld, but after a couple of tries, found something off the shelf that works:

Duralast 3/8in Drive 9/16in Spark Plug Socket

Shop for Duralast 3/8in Drive 9/16in Spark Plug Socket with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

Idea is that it's a slightly shorter version of the welded socket, but since the hex on the end is smaller, one can stack a 16mm thin wall deep socket on it and get enough reach.

The right tool is probably a better choice, but at least in a pinch (and honestly, it wasn't all that bad), the spark plug socket trick seems to be a winner.

The second frustration was discovering 3/4 into swapping the exhaust bellows that bozo here forgot to order the expander tool. By the time I discovered this I already had the transom side adhered (2nd attempt, but this one didn't budge when yanked!). I have a tool on order but won't see it until Sunday (projected).

 

[nola mike]

Frustrating day. The theme is "messed over by tools" (what I wanted to type is a bit more colorful, if you like!)

First issue was getting the shift cable threaded into the bellhousing. As it turns out, I erred by buying a cheap socket on eBay.

(file uploads aren't working, so no pic)

Notably, they're made with 15mm sockets (not 9/16 or 14mm as they should be) that are only thinned partially down the length (still hits case side) and only are good for mangling the threads on the shift cable.

Went to the Auto Zone down the road intending to buy a socket to weld, but after a couple of tries, found something off the shelf that works:

Duralast 3/8in Drive 9/16in Spark Plug Socket

Shop for Duralast 3/8in Drive 9/16in Spark Plug Socket with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

Idea is that it's a slightly shorter version of the welded socket, but since the hex on the end is smaller, one can stack a 16mm thin wall deep socket on it and get enough reach.

The right tool is probably a better choice, but at least in a pinch (and honestly, it wasn't all that bad), the spark plug socket trick seems to be a winner.

The second frustration was discovering 3/4 into swapping the exhaust bellows that bozo here forgot to order the expander tool. By the time I discovered this I already had the transom side adhered (2nd attempt, but this one didn't budge when yanked!). I have a tool on order but won't see it until Sunday (projected).

Interesting. Wonder if the MC-1 is different? I've never needed a special socket for an alpha.

 

[kenny nunez]

Be sure to use glue to hold the large rubber ring in the bell housing and the water passage “O”ring. The gasket is a dry fit.

 

[ratdude747]

Be sure to use glue to hold the large rubber ring in the bell housing and the water passage “O”ring. The gasket is a dry fit.

Of course... that's partially what deep sixed my upper gearcase! Bellows adhesive or aviation gasket maker (perfect seal)? I'd think the former since it's metal to rubber?

Interesting. Wonder if the MC-1 is different? I've never needed a special socket for an alpha.

Maybe slightly. The issue is that the plastic tube sticks out farther than a normal deep socket (with a ratchet plugged in) will allow. In this case, the hole in the center of said spark plug socket is just big enough to allow the tube to pass.

 

[nola mike]

Of course... that's partially what deep sixed my upper gearcase! Bellows adhesive or aviation gasket maker (perfect seal)? I'd think the former since it's metal to rubber?


Maybe slightly. The issue is that the plastic tube sticks out farther than a normal deep socket (with a ratchet plugged in) will allow. In this case, the hole in the center of said spark plug socket is just big enough to allow the tube to pass.

I wouldn't overthink the adhesive. Permatex works fine. And that tube is removable...

 

[ratdude747]

My coworker had an expander tool... So the bellows are done. Shift cable fought like a stubborn mule but I made do there. But the drive install is not going well. Gets stuck 1" out... I suspect that's the o rings on the gimbal shaft. I installed the ones that came in the upper seal kit... But I have other sets to try.

Also tore the gasket severely... So I'll try the alpha gasket. It'll need trimming after install and will have a partial gap but I'm out of options unless I want to wait on shipping with a bunch of greasy stuff exposed to the elements.

 

[ratdude747]

I've done it... Tried giving the drive some light dead blow taps and now have the shift jammed in the bearing. Having no luck getting it out in a way that doesn't skewer my other gasket.

I'm thinking this input shaft still has rust in the o ring grooves. May be better off trying to swap the gimbal yoke from the original drive that is rust free.

 

[ratdude747]

Good news! It's off! Used the 2x4 and trim ram trick.

Bad news is I cheesed the second gasket a bit at the very top. Not completely torn but not great. Still ok to use?

 

[ratdude747]

Better news: it's on!

Did some testing with the old input shaft and old gimbal bearing and determined the issue was surface rust on the new shaft hanging the bearing... Wasn't even hitting the o rings. I wire brushed the shaft until the old bearing slid on comfortablely and replaced the o rings (I had like 4 sets of them!)... The gasket I chose to reuse since the broken area wasn't fully ripped and seemed like it would compress back together ok.

Now working on trim cylinders... Then the rest of the shift cable, then it's ready for a lake test! (Maybe, there is a small lake near me that's too small for what I normally do but probably perfect for this?).

Maybe premature, but whew!

 

[ratdude747]

Back to square 1. Shift cable adjustment still not doable. I fiddled with it and got it a lot closer than it had been (both directions catch but just barely and can be pushed past).

Seems the issue is the helm cable. I'm only getting 2 21/32" of throw (should be 3"?). The lower cable is much improved. I'll remeasure before bed (midnight oil job!) but I think I recall it being 3/8 of play (shift cable is tight shifting too). Edit- it is 1/2" right on the nose... In spec.

What's next? Figure out how long my helm cable is? Or pull the throttle lever?

 

[nola mike]

Your lower cable adjusts to a different spec than the alpha, 5 ⅞ or something, iirc. Also you have the cable full up in the slot?

 

[ratdude747]

Your lower cable adjusts to a different spec than the alpha, 5 ⅞ or something, iirc. Also you have the cable full up in the slot?

I tried it both ways. Little difference. And yes I did move it all the way in the slot to try to make it work.

 

[ratdude747]

Pulled the throttle... what a pain. For future reference, if one has a morse controls throttle like this, shift full reverse or else the shift cable lever won't allow it to exit the gunwall.

The shift linkage had a second cable attachment hole that gives a roughly 1/4" greater swing of the lever. I moved the cable to such and re-installed... and that did it! I was able to set the cables. I'm not thrilled that I had to use 60% of the slot adjustment to get there, but it's there at least.

My suspicion is my lower unit does have some wear in the shift dogs. I may look to picking up a used MC-1 lower to play with later... or use the Gary one that's missing a chunk of the skeg? Maybe have that one welded? The shifter did move nice on that one.