1995 Crownline 202BR Restore

[Drivewayboater2]

The csm will actually help keep the resin on the surface and give a better water barrier. Even on the flat part of a sheet, the wood can absorb quite a bit, which will actually reduce the barrier quality. The cut out is pretty much all end grain, which is even worse, so I think the csm would be necessary if you want to use resin there.

Okay see your tinking

 

[beta]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll pursue the laminated ply.

On the keyhole, the original was gel coated I think. I was thinking about this before and my initial thought was to csm the sides. Seems straightforward.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

Thanks for the feedback. I'll pursue the laminated ply.

On the keyhole, the original was gel coated I think. I was thinking about this before and my initial thought was to csm the sides. Seems straightforward.

I don't know how tight the tolerance is for those openings, inboards are removed before we get them. Just keep the extra material in mind for fitment.

 

[Pmt133]

1 layer of csm won't hurt fitment. The steering arm cutout notch may be difficult to glass.

My original cutout was finished with a black oil based paint of some sort. Didn't do anything. Adding glass to resin improves waterproofing by a lot. Wood just sealed with gel or resin really doesn't have much of a water resistance

 

[beta]

Check my transom thickness this morning after adding 1708 layers yesterday and got 1.975" to 1.985". So added 1 more layer this morning. I'll check it tomorrow but should be good to go.

Went with the laminated motor mounts. Cut those and did the lamination yesterday. Today I did some sanding and fine tuning on the mounts. I did many, many, many dry fits to fine tune the profiles. Given the slanted hull under the mounts and the slanted transom, it was a lot of in the boat, out of the boat, repeat, repeat, repeat. I didn't want to have to re-make anything so it was a lot of small changes.
Very pleased with the end result and they sit very level naturally. Spacing and height all look good based on my original mounts. Hopefully I can put CSM on the bottom and get them mounted in the boat with PB during the week. Time to make another wood run for the stringers & bulkheads!

 

[Pmt133]

When I fitted (is that even a word?) Mine in I took a measurement at all 4 corners for height and set up the table saw angle to cut it. Not perfect but enough that a little PB fixed. Mine were much smaller though and I had a jig to use for the reference as I just made the old ones the year before.

 

[beta]

I also used a table saw to get the bottom angle. That worked really well once I figured out the appropriate angle.

My original mount was overly complex. It had multiple step downs and angled corners that are not necessary. My version was much easier to build and will be easier to glass. Maybe it was designed that way to accommodate different motors but it's not necessary for mine. I like simple!