pulling the cyl head to inspect water jackets isn't al that comlicated and only costs is a new gasket.
is this a sudden problem , evolving problem over time. ?
when was the impeller serviced last ? any chunks missing ?
salty or fresh water engine ?
mdl# ???
IF...compression is 60 try another meter with a short hose .
it should be decent like >75-80 psi. my 9622a 9.5hp run perfect at 65 psi so don't give up.
you may be just starving out of fuel.
I assume you have good strong sparks...on both plugs !
easiest to try is pump the fuel bulb...
what I said was a maybe....
your cut hose may have been the one feeding oil to the fuel line just before the lift pump.. Inspect your fuel route to see if you have alterations or missing T on the fuel line. Make 100% certain all oil lines to the crankcase are installed.
that cut...
the exhaust housing is full of carbon deposits & unburnt fuel-oil when inefficient 2 stroke engines blows out the cyl fumes when the incoming load of new fuel-oil fills in the cyl. space on the downstrokes.
Probably 30% of good fuel and oil is waisted by the 2 stroke design which is...
When it is struggling to start, sometimes it will seep dark oil out of the bottom unit right before the prop
most likely carbon and sludge wash out from extra fuel on those et oil plugs
You may want to consult the attached. On FICHT and ETEC engines up to about 2006 or so.... one oil feeder sends oil into the incoming fuel line to provide a mix of fuel oil undr EMM control . Check to see if previous owner did not cut it and fed pre-mix at 50/1
this link will list...
how about some more details as to what you want to analyse ...on what type of engine modern oldy ... ignition, timing , capacitors, coils modern ECU like EMM,s on ETECS etc...
making your own may be audacious .
time to buy the book to understand and service your engine there are no "primary" coils under the FW ... just 2 magnets built in the FW that spin around the 2 coils .
https://watercraftmanuals.com/outboard/johnson/manuals/johnson-302231.htm
compression has nothing to do with sparks especially if plugs are just simply grounded to the frame and not themselves subjected to extra PSI's
crankcase is just a cavity to allow movement of internal parts. ..
remove the plugs stick a screw driver in the boots and confirm...
I doubt they would give you much. most don't pay current fair market value they simply depreciate the purchase price value down to 0$ after 27 years. !
no harm in trying...
That page is just a sample..... your model may not be so equipted in any event just disconnect the wire if you have one and that will at least let you check for sparks with no interference . the points (for testing purposes) should have 2 wires one to the condenser one to the coil...
silly question but type of plug wire did you use.... solid strand metallic 7mm or carbon fiber wires for cars ??
to service these oldies the johson manual provides all u need for $20
Good for Johnson and cousins Evinrudes...
check basics .. the plug boot to engine frame electrically goes to ground via the secondary coil winding...
measure & confirm the HV secondary ohms (4-8KOhms) with good SOLID connections and confirm that continuity is not lost at anytime. if you loose continuity while doing whatever...
