Search results

  1. MNhunter1

    1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

    Mine is a center console, so the holes in the center are for the steering, controls, wires/cables, and livewell plumbing to run under the deck and back to the transom. This model has an aluminum tray that rivets to the stringer to hold all the cables. The livewell plumbing just rests on the...
  2. MNhunter1

    1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

    Yes, drill a hole or two and install the rivet. Only way to ensure everything stays aligned and doesn't shift if you go through and drill them all. I always start with the stringers and do the rib ends last. Put some tape or a stop collar around the bit so you don't drill them too far and hit...
  3. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    I've contemplated this approach as well. Unfortunately, my brackets are not flat on top, so I would need to somehow adjust for that, but still something I am pondering. You can see the little bump where the rod is enclosed, but I could also just grind off the welded on roller arms and use the...
  4. MNhunter1

    1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

    I would strongly suggest forgoing the existing hole locations and just drill new holes. The thought of trying to line up all those existing holes for a tight rivet fit while working with 3M5200 gives me a headache and anxiety. It's much more efficient to drill the new holes and I do not believe...
  5. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    FYI - added a post in the Trailer and Towing thread, tagging here for ease of following/sharing of information: https://forums.iboats.com/threads/bunk-bracket-suggestions.769355/
  6. MNhunter1

    Bunk bracket suggestions

    Yeah, that was a thought too, just lop off the tail that would hang below the cross member. Just wonder if it would compromise the structural integrity as the U bolt wouldn't be completely captured on the lower leg. Also thought I could just drill through the frame and bolt on directly, but...
  7. MNhunter1

    Bunk bracket suggestions

    I'm considering converting my rollers over to bunks. I have a low slung drop axle trailer w/ only 6" of ground clearance. Is there a bunk bracket available that can be mounted on the cross member that will not protrude below the cross member and catch/snag/drag as the lowest point of the...
  8. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Might be better suited for the trailer/towing forum, but I trust the opinions of the mob a little more than I do the general population. My drop axle/low slung wobble roller trailer fits the boat just perfectly, but I'm tempted to swap out the rollers with bunks. Problem I have is the low...
  9. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Been a busy week! Nautolex down, hull supports solid riveted in, gunnels attached, hull painted...making progress. First pic of the vinyl was before I glued it down, so may look a little wrinkled. Also could have done a better job sanding some of my hole fills on the gunnels, but they'll still...
  10. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Photo dump from phone…
  11. MNhunter1

    196X Starcraft Mariner 16

    I would tend to agree. The bow casting deck and existing side console were a PO add on and the side panel structure, supports, and console attachment are all consistent with the SS model. Looks to be a heavily hacked SS.
  12. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Installed the bow brace/support and played with some clecos to get the gunnel tops all mocked up and mark all the holes I still need to fill before prepping for paint.
  13. MNhunter1

    1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

    For straight cuts on the foam, a table saw or circular saw makes easy work of it as well. Not the best for the blades and leaves a bunch of pink(or green in your case) fairy dust all over the place, but they rip right through it. Pretty easy to just score it and snap it clean if you don't cut...
  14. MNhunter1

    1973 Starcraft SuperSport 16ft. restoration questions

    No experience, I always use Nautolex, but don't see why it wouldn't work. Not sure how slippery it might be when wet? I see many using a hydroturf or seadeck type material these days too. As long as you have your decking sealed up good, which it looks like you do, I'd think it would be fine as...
  15. MNhunter1

    1976 22' SUS O/B "Hydration Break"

    How many cans of adhesive did it take for the big girl? I was thinking I could get by with two for my 18'r, but don't want to run short. Can't recall what I used on my other builds.
  16. MNhunter1

    1976 22' SUS O/B "Hydration Break"

    Pressure washer and/or air compressor to blow out the ribs. Use a hacksaw blade to keep the drain channels clear. Just keep hitting it over and over again.
  17. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Big hurdle completed! It's amazing how everything starts to fly together once the deck goes in. I'll give it a week to let the 3M5200 set up, lay out the Nautolex, hammer in the side supports with some solids and 5200, and another week of cure time. She should then be ready for hull paint...
  18. MNhunter1

    180 SS New to the Forums.

    I completely understand the thread getting dusty. Recently been trying to blow a bunch off of mine as well. Interested in more information on the new bimini and kicker bracket you went with. Two items I've been contemplating for my build as well.
  19. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Me too:)
  20. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    No, just one. I have two sitting there, one with low compression in one cylinder sitting around 100psi with the rest at 125-130. I'll get the main one running and then see what I can do with the 2nd one. Hoping I can get the compression up and it won't need a rebuild, but will cross that bridge...
Top