Maybe, but the oil cooler has several small tunes that would stop impeller pieces if it did come apart.
Could angle the hose into a 5 gallon bucket. The pump should fill the bucket in about 5 or so seconds
Thanks Lou, my bad and should have paid more attention
I noticed exhaust manifold and stopped right there. Didn't notice it was about the entire motor.
The IAC is part of the Throttle Body (TB), again not current issue
Get a short piece of clear hose, a hose clamp and double barbed fitting from the local hardware store. Remove hose going into thermostat housing that comes from the raw water pump. With boat in the water see if you see any...
Diagram is for a 4.3 with out TKS carb. Your motor has a TKS so I have also attached wiring for it and block functional diagram
20 amp fuse shown may be a 15 amp
The wire is chaffed and is making contact somewhere with something hot (12V).
The yel/red comes from the switch then to the kill switch (man overboard) then to the slave relay. The slave relay is on the motor. The relay will have 4 wires on it. Small yel/red (the one with 12V your tracing)...
With it hissing and then stopping this would saay the module is shutting off the extra fuel as the motor warms up, which is good.
What did the old plugs look like?
Do a compression test
Barbed fittings are always hard to get off. The ones on the pump should only have one ridge like hardin's, right?
https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-14353-cast-stainless-fitting-1-npt-to-1-14-straight.aspx
It's a tad heavy but other then that should take about 15 to 20 minutes to remove
If its an alpha drive the impeller is in the drive, Bravo is on starboard side of motor. Alpha drive must put shifter in full forward before removing, Bravo in neutral
That is the start wire
If both ends are Yel/Red then go to the key switch and see if there is constant 12V on the red/purple and 0V on both the Purple run wire and yel/red. Might have a bad key switch
Your doing it correct, its just froze up do to not being used to free drop.
Just snug, if it needs more it will start to slip on retrieve. My Maxwell doesn't use a wrench and is loosened and tightened by hand.
Suse, with
Sure with drive removed, just connect hose to input bell housing connection.
Or remove belt to pump and connect hose to input connection at thermostat housing
