Search results

  1. T

    1987 Power Play XLT-185 - floors, stringers, and upholstery

    A few days ago I poured foam under my ski locker floor. I missed the temperature recommendation of 80F+ before the first pour, so it didn't expand as much as I calculated. After that I cranked up the heat in the garage and heated up the cans of resin before mixing them. Today I PB'd the...
  2. T

    Fletcher Bravo Arrowsport 150 restoration...

    Looking good. I can't really tell how small or large the void is, but personally, I'd just fill those spots with hairy PB when laying the tabbing and call it a day.
  3. T

    Restoring a 1990 Larson

    You should be good as far as regulations go. You only need to have access to the sending unit and fittings, and the ability to inspect/remove/replace the hose between the tank and engine without having to cut the floor out. I totally agree - I'm looking to avoid running any screws into the...
  4. T

    Fletcher Bravo Arrowsport 150 restoration...

    I don't know what I was expecting (just solid glass?), but I was surprised to see balsa core in the sides of my hull. After grinding out tabbing and then wetting the hull out with resin, the inner glass on the hull becomes clear and you can definitely see the end-grain balsa.
  5. T

    Fuel tank to engine hose routing

    Thanks guys. I went ahead and ordered all my fuel hoses last night, and I'm going to go look at PVC conduit with long sweeps at HD tomorrow. It's cheap enough I'll just buy some and mess around with it to see how I would put it in under the floor.
  6. T

    Fletcher Bravo Arrowsport 150 restoration...

    My boat uses 3/4" ply for transom (2 layers), bulkheads, and stringers. 1/2" ply for decking. I used ACX exterior grade plywood - about $40-$50 per sheet. Marine grade plywood was $100 per sheet. Coosa board is about $600 per sheet.
  7. T

    ‘85 Chris Craft Scorpion transom, stringers, bulkheads and upholstery

    I'm doing an 18 ft boat. I left mine on the double bunk trailer without adding any cradle supports and pulled the cap off. I measured hull width every foot and drew a sketch. I removed 2 of the 5 stringers, the rear bulkhead, and transom and replaced those. While bedding and tabbing in the first...
  8. T

    Fletcher Bravo Arrowsport 150 restoration...

    I just ground mine until the texture on the surface was gone and there were smooth transitions everywhere. As I was grinding, if I could tell there was an air pocket or delaminated glass underneath, I would grind deeper. My hull was by no means flat. Look at the pictures in my post here - you...
  9. T

    If you get a boat, you will never, ever, ever be done working on it...

    You can only edit your post for about an hour after posting it. Plan on it taking at least 12 months and plan on needing to replace all the wood structure (floors, stringers, bulkheads, transom). Before you go crazy ripping all the rotten stuff out, take lots of pictures and make lots of...
  10. T

    Fuel tank to engine hose routing

    Yep, I've read the regs. I'm under the 12 ft. It's right around 10 ft.
  11. T

    Fuel tank to engine hose routing

    Thanks for the input. I thought about running PVC under the deck, but what about making turns - are there fittings and elbows with gentle enough curves and no step in them that would allow me to get a 3/8" ID fuel hose through? I had also thought about PB'ing a piece of PVC against the hull...
  12. T

    Fuel tank to engine hose routing

    I'm doing a full gut/cut restoration of a 1987 Power Play XLT-185 and can see the light at the end of the tunnel for being able to put the cap back on. Before I lay down a new deck, I'm looking for input on fuel hose routing. This boat has an aluminum fuel tank in the bow with an anti-siphon...
  13. T

    1987 Power Play XLT-185 - floors, stringers, and upholstery

    Appreciate the detailed input. I'm going to CSM and gelcoat my ski locker too. It will drain constantly directly into the bilge. I think I'm going to put some kind of drain in the deck where people will sit to allow that area to drain into the ski locker, and the ski locker into the bilge. I...
  14. T

    1987 Power Play XLT-185 - floors, stringers, and upholstery

    Ski locker floor tabbed in, holes drilled for pour-in foam. I did end up just going with 2 layers of 1708 tabbing after all.
  15. T

    Replacing bulkheads and deck on 85 Chris craft

    Look in my thread - "1987 Powerplay" - I'm 4+ months in on my restoration - first time just like you. Learning as I go. I've got pics of where I drilled my transom and what the wood shavings looked like. Buckle up and prepare to spend a lot of time breathing through a respirator and itching over...
  16. T

    '90 Maxum 2100SR - restoration & conversion

    Looks really good man! The gelcoat takes it to another level.
  17. T

    '90 Maxum 2100SR - restoration & conversion

    My boat had wood that was just resin coated above deck. For the stuff that didn't get rained on, it's still in surprisingly good shape. Personally, I'll probably CSM everything, just because I've got it.
  18. T

    1987 Power Play XLT-185 - floors, stringers, and upholstery

    Ground down all the glass that was sticking up above the top edge of the stringers from the bulkhead tabbing. Also started calculating material for cleats to hold the decking down. Laid a fat bead of PB on top of the center stringer and laid the ski locker floor down with some weight. I did...
  19. T

    1987 Power Play XLT-185 - floors, stringers, and upholstery

    Appreciate it! Question - I think I'm only going to use one layer of 1708 to tab the ski locker floor in - anyone have an opinion on that? I figure since it's not really part of the structure, it doesn't need the 2nd layer.
Top