Your the Canadian with the blown engine right? Or did the a second compression test, test out better? Flywheels get a little stuck but tighten the main puller bolt and than tap with a hammer... It will pop like Tp says.
I know you said that already. Motor should idle, warmed up and in the water....in gear, at 650 to 700 rpm's. Cold not in gear? 1000 wouldn't surprise me. Now 7000 at WOT? That's way off unless your prop is junk. You will need to get it back in the water to test correctly and may need to adjust...
Pee hole could be plugged, doesn't mean it got hot. Starter button worked before? If so, wire or fuse most likely. Racerone wanted model number, maybe he's on to something. Post model number.
I don't think it's the prop with what your saying. When the prop slips your engine over revs and your boat slows. Is that happening? Doesn't sound like it. In the past others here have stated that you should look for a damaged wire, probably one under the flywheel that is shorting out when you...
Here is a post in 2013 with a similar issue, a way to test (should be able to make sure pathways are connected) and then they list a place that repairs them.
Have you ever plugged in a different control box just to see if that solves it?
Anyhow, enjoy the read...
Viper, you have to look at the dates of the post, in this case 2007. Also, if you read the thread in his first post he doesn't have a choke. He has a primer. If you have a question or need support after reading an old posting, just start a new post.
Amps doesn't have anything to do with it, it's pickup points in one revolutions of the flywheel. I would think the directions of the tach would be correct.
I don't think it will harm your tach if it's set wrong, it will just read incorrectly. You can then turn off the motor and set it to the other calibration. Don't trust me on this one though, let others confirm.
