I believe the posts on the distributor cap are numbered.----Make sure wires are correct.-----Or mark TDC on flywheel for each cylinder.----Then check with a timing light.
There is more than one name attached to these rods.-----I bought 10 " lumiweld "rods and my friend bought 10 rods at antique car parts flea market-----We were skeptical.------I bought the 10 rods off my friend.----Bought 150 rods the next time I saw this vendor.----They work very well.
Perhaps the carburetor is plugged.----No fuel going in also means no oil.----Do not run this motor until you determine the fault.----Or fuel pump diaphragm is ruptured and there is too much gas.----Or plug wires are on the wrong cylinder.
Fact----The general public thinks that a 2 stroke is an inferior motor.----Some of the newest parts motors I own are 4 strokes.-----Modern motors with computers and sensors and all the wiring are expensive to repair.---Often they re simply replaced.
Check flywheel key.----No you need to advance " throttle only lever " to open throttle plates slightly for cold start.---And at idle the throttle plates are to be closed with air going through calibrated holes.
Just install a new diaphragm in each pump.-----About the only thing that can go wrong.----Pumps are driven by crankcase pressure pulses.-----There may be issues there.----Post the CYLINDER compression test results here.-----That may offer a clue.
To me it sounds awful.----Sounds like it is running on one cylinder.-----Post compression numbers.----And does spark jump a gap of 1/4" (7 mm ) or more on each lead ?----Check fuel pump diaphragm.
Way, way back when , a boat shop that I frequented had some u-shaped brackets in a box.-----Gave them away with each motor that was sold or came in for repairs.------Just fit it into the holes for the tilt pin.----Swing it up and lock the motor on.
