With it hissing and then stopping this would saay the module is shutting off the extra fuel as the motor warms up, which is good.
What did the old plugs look like?
Do a compression test
Barbed fittings are always hard to get off. The ones on the pump should only have one ridge like hardin's, right?
https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-14353-cast-stainless-fitting-1-npt-to-1-14-straight.aspx
It's a tad heavy but other then that should take about 15 to 20 minutes to remove
If its an alpha drive the impeller is in the drive, Bravo is on starboard side of motor. Alpha drive must put shifter in full forward before removing, Bravo in neutral
That is the start wire
If both ends are Yel/Red then go to the key switch and see if there is constant 12V on the red/purple and 0V on both the Purple run wire and yel/red. Might have a bad key switch
Your doing it correct, its just froze up do to not being used to free drop.
Just snug, if it needs more it will start to slip on retrieve. My Maxwell doesn't use a wrench and is loosened and tightened by hand.
Suse, with
Sure with drive removed, just connect hose to input bell housing connection.
Or remove belt to pump and connect hose to input connection at thermostat housing
Need a engine serial number?
Have not herd of a Titan Performance Distributor but (being tongue and cheek here) must be a wiz bang better then the GM Dizzy
If your compression gauge is accurate then you have water or other liquid in the cylinders. Brand new motor would be 150, but could be...
Sold my Rinker 232 which had Nav light like what your discussing. Anchored many times on the river and other places and never had an issue with it damaging the Nav light. The boat stays straight when in the current of the river and there shouldn't be much side loading of the light
