My guy was up front right off the bat...hardly any. Yearly maintenance fee was 35 bucks, he gets a small fee when I make withdraws. Pocket change compared to what I could have lost. Fees should be discussed right at the start !
I would consider a LifePo4 battery, far longer run times between charging, lighter weight. I only charge my house battery after 3-4 all day trips....it runs everything except starting the main engine. And they recharge much faster.
Muffs should not be used to test a water pump. The pressure from the hose could create a false impression that the impeller was pumping when it is not. To test a water pump, a tank or back into the lake is necessary.
I have had my financial guy for over 40 years, a Jewish fellow that really understands finnances, my money is in the same investments his money is in ! If I loose, so does he, and we all know they don't loose.
I have a financial advisor that takes care of things like that, I rolled my part time job and my full time job, all into my own account. Use experts when ever you can !
I finally got out on Sunday for my first outing of the season. Near perfect day on the lake, everything performed as it should. Even caught a few walleye while testing all the trolling motors and electronics. Had some nice weather earlier in the month as well as last month, but something...
While it looks cool, your best bet is to part it out if your not gonna put in the time and money. Keep in mind, most fiberglass boats were designed for a 25 year life span, your well past that, so ......your call !
Here on lake Erie, most have a pos and negative bars directly from battery to dash, then everything ties into those bars. Basically same as wiring directly to the house battery.
On most motors the start position on the throttle is at a fast idle position, not dead slow unless engine is still warm from a prior run. Sounds like you have other issues, but....your start position needs to be a little faster on the throttle position when cold with choke in proper position.
Sometimes when running power thru the rest if the boat's electrical system it can cause interference or false readings on the screen of the FF. Most all mfgrs recommend wiring direct to the battery with an inline fuse.
This happens when an aluminum hull is drive hard thru chop. The continuous pounding causes the aluminum to take this shape. You can also find this on riveted hulls, but the welding process makes the aluminium m more maleable and easier to reshape. As long as their are no cracks on the welds...
Fuel from last year is no longer fresh unless treated with fuel stabilizer. Dealer should have verified your tach before testing. I would get my money back from them !
