Of course I always advise doing a complete wp kit instead of just the impeller. Same labor, slight cost increase, and it pumps better and lasts longer.
The cam rod (in the LU) should be stiff to move, but you should feel the click as it goes in and out of gear. Odds are you did not get the...
If acarbed outboard will sit for more than a day or 2, I always run the carb dry. If you leave fuel in it for a week or 2, you are asking for gunk. You can drain the bowl if you forgot to run it dry. Pulling the intake only involves a few 6mm bolts with 10mm heads and it pops right off...
Nah. It's more like the old 45A through 70A, both of which are long obsolete as well. If well maintained, the impeller is available, and the rest should continue working until an electrical problem sends it to the scrap heap.
Indeed the 55B is very obsolete. A few bits are available. No wp kits, but the bare impeller is available. A few individual carb parts may still be available, but that's about all.
The M5B is pretty old, so you may need to persuade the housing out. Yes, you need the housing out and pull the prop shaft fwd, then the seals can be driven out with a drift. May as well get a complete LU seal kit and do them all. Don't forget the 2 o-rings for the cam rod.
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POWER TRIM & TILT (II) KIT (FOR F TYPE)-DISCONTINUED
Most issues are with the electric motor. Take yours to your favorite auto electric for repairs if that's the case.
