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That is a MEFI (1 to 4) connector and while there are not many codes can be read, if there is one it can be done as your pic shows. Use a 12V resistor LED or a voltmeter with a tone function

Welcome Hey @redneck joe he's a new member, how about spelling it out a bit more in his first thread?

Ya going to remove the OEM logo's?

Not able to fully understand the circulating system from the drawings, but it does show items feeding the exhaust elbows. Unable to determine if the elbows are fully closed off from mans but appears so https://www.volvopenta.com/shop/0/part-sections/54163952?hintPhrase=&hintType=None

Unless your sitting in the water might be the same, also depends on if raw water goes thru the elbows or just the exit ports. Would need serial number to see how your configured

I'm assuming open cooling A motor at idle in most cases does move enough water to fill everything the same as higher RPMs, if it's on a hose even more so. If the port side will not burn you with a touch then it's ok IMO. While you may or may not need a O2 sensor, I wouldn't throw parts at it in...

Here is the one for Verado's The first thing I usually do after getting new car/truck/motor I go a buy spares. I need to start doing that on 3rd or fourth thing. Here I changed the oil once and have several filters that won't be used on the 8.2 so oh well. Same goes with the other parts are...

Looks like the week of Oct 4 will be when I head to Michigan. I'm hoping to go up Sunday but depends when the trailer is being delivered. A venture trailer coming from Maryland do to arrive Monday the 5th but right now don't know when I removed the starboard leg and pouched up the paint. It...

Might be the line feeding the gauge is a bit clogged. Get behind the helm and swap the plastic tubes. If it's electrical could still swap the wires The water jackets on the motor might also be a bit clogged

Double wam, sorry to hear that, we're pulling for ya

Happy BD

Need to get rid of that and change to a steel one

The switch on dash turns water pump on, since it didn't come on it's either bad, blown fuse/breaker, switch is bad, pump is missing. The pump should be close to the water tank Need a voltmeter and start tracing voltages to see where it is and what it's not reaching The panel is for 120VAC...

Dealer and Mercury Tech support found the issue, it's the oil level check. Merc says when motors are shut down to raise the legs so oil flows out of cylinders and back into pan. My start up procedure changed and was causing the issue. I bring drives full down and than raise up to about 15...

Unless there is something else like there was a lot of filings on the magnet I wouldn't worry about it. Don't know when the lube was last changed and given these are gears meshing together the iron would be higher than on a motor

Sorry Bt, I guess I missed a digit on his name

The PCM must see at least 300 RPM, and ignition procedures will energize. Not sure about your motor and that's why I tried to get MUC into the conversation. Your distributor has a Cam sensor but I don't think it has a cable attached, and if no cable is attached then it just uses the crank sensor...

Right now I of the opinion it's lack of spark, don't know if it's the cap or not only that they are known to have issues. I start with simple stuff than try other things. You have done many things and nothing works until it starts to work again. Disabling the fuel system is just a coincidence...

Is a strange one, but with it flooding I would look closer at spark. Those flat distributor caps are known to look great but be bad. Many keep a spare on the boat because they can fail without warning

Gas will come out but not a lot