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Thanks guys. While a leak into the bellows will cause rust on both the U-Joints and the Gimbal Bearing, I don't think either one would seize or become noisy immediately. I experienced a leaky U-Joint bellows when the clip that connected to the ground wire and the zink pieces got out of position...

Is there a way to tell if the U-Joint Bellows is leaking? That would be very good to know because a leaking bellows can lead to having to replace the U-Joints and the Gymbal bearing and possible worse. There is a plug on the starboard side to check if water is getting into the cavity where...

This is part of the "Upper Gear Housing Unit" per the Crawley Marine diagram. See picture: I do not have a press, so I installed the Water Pump Adapter Seal, # 47 into the Water Pump to Gear Housing Adapter, #45 by tapping it into place with a socket and a hammer. I think it was fully...

The plug on the starboard side of the OD came out with some work. I soaked the area with CLR, pryed it with a screwdriver from the outside and hammered on it with a screwdriver from the inside. That worked. After I got the plug out, I cleaned up the hole with more CLR, a wire brush and then...

While working on the boat and OD, I get to a section about the water hose that I do not understand. This is on a 91 OMC Cobra. I have multiple manuals, including the Clymer (No judging). I also have an original factory manual. The Clymer manual page 463 section 13 is about reinstalling the...

I successfully removed the plug. My understanding is that the new plug with the Zerk fitting can be installed from the outside after the new Bellcrank and shift lever are installed. It could be done even after the complete OD is installed. But can someone confirm that? Since this is a...

The new part number with the grease port is 0915796 Bellcrank It replaces 0911722

I'm installing the new version of the Bell Crank with the grease port. It has a hole drilled through it to allow you to grease it through a Zerk fitting. I have to remove the plug that is in the Pivot Housing. Any tips on doing that? I could drill it out. It will have to be a water-tight seal...

I got an original from am OMC dealer. I got it in position, I removed it from the forward fitting and then I folded the lip in on the aft end. Then I got it into position and then flipped the lip back to normal and it snapped into place. Then I reconnected the forward end and tightened the hose...

OMC Cobra, 1991 motor. I am replacing the U-Joint Bellows. The new version is very stiff. Any suggestions on installing it? I have the forward end in place in the filling and I'm trying to force the aft end through the Pivot Housing. Thanks

The machinist got the broken bolt out, but it was not easy. I had to remove the pivot housing, then he put it on a drill press. That worked, but it all cost $450 !!!! That was an expensive lesson on overtorquing something. I was using a torque wrench. The wrench has a long handle and it was...

A machinist with a welder tried to weld material onto the broken bolt. The plan was then to grab hold of that material and unscrew the bolt. He could not get that to work. At one point, he accidentally welded the bolt to the shift lever. Now we are considering removing the pivot housing and...

I'm a little tempted to do that, just leave it for now and get the boat ready for summer. I'm pretty sure that the shift lever will stay tight on the bell crank. I could fix it the next time I pull the OD. I will let you know.

Lou, Thank you for your response. I can't really be sure why the bolt snapped, but it was seated properly in the bell crank's recess. I lined up the parts and, at first, hand-tightened the bolt. Even with the head snapped off, the shift lever is secure to the bell crank with very little play...

Here are the pictures. The first 2 are before I snapped off the Easy Out

Help! I screwed up! I was putting the Bell Crank back on the boat and was tightening the bolt that holds the shift lever on the bell crank. The original OMC Shop Manual said 5-7 ft -Lbs. I was using a torque wrench. I got to 5 Ft-lbs and was going just a little more… The bold was sheared off...

It does make sense. I do wonder how deep the water has to be in the bilge before it gets up to the drive shaft. Can see that?

@alldodge - the new bearing of OEM and does have a grease port. Per a very experienced repair shop owner, the function of the shaft seal is: if water gets into the bilge, the seal prevents it from getting to the u-Joints. @rolmops - The mechanic did use the factory bearing puller. Even that...

I found the answer: Yes the rounded edge goes IN leaving the open side out, facing aft. That was in my official OMC Service Manual. P 6-11 . The manual also says to coat the metal case with OMC gasket sealer. Since I do not have the official tool to install it, I decided that I can use the old...

The seal is out!! and I have cleaned up the race (?) for it. I'm ready to reassemble. I assume that the rounded edge goes into the cavity. I have loaded 2 pictures of the seal. The Rounded edge showing and the Sharp edge showing,