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I think you may have, that's what my cracks looked like when they were cleaned up. See that's why I said what I said (heads have to be checked by a shop) that boat may have been overheated at one point in the past. If you show the owner that, he might be convinced, if he wants to keep the boat...

Thanks for this! It makes sense with what Scott said the part I didn’t quite understand is the actual amp draw in the coil primary, which is enough to lower the bolt reading to that extent. And yes I did know you never leave a points ignition system with the key in the ON position, the same is...

I’d be looking at fuel mix and also what’s the max RPM you get? If it’s over propped (prop pitch too high, max rpm too low) you will eventually get that overheating of the combustion chamber and valve burning/blown head gaskets. If these have a knock sensor is it in fact functioning? Lastly I...

Makes sense though I am surprised that the difference was that much…,

That’s a good question but I don’t know the answer to it! However I tried it several times & it was always the same. I’m I think the only way to figure it out is to check to see if it changes when the points are open vs closed. The other thing might be the way digital meters “average” voltage...

I did an oil analysis on my Cobra dog clutch drive about 10 years ago out of curiosity and it also tested high on iron but no water. And there was never anything but a tiny bit of fuzz on the magnet of the drain plug. I don't think the high iron is as much of an issue as it would be in an engine...

Thought of that too, it's right where it should be. Since dwell and gap are inversely related, too small of a gap will result in too much dwell time. I try to set it at the wider end of the spec so it stays in spec longer. 39* + or - 2* for the GM 4.3 V6.

Yep this one does…

and you don't have to scrape the inevitable barnacles all over the transom bracket and outdrives lol. That all by itself saves a lot of time! Oil qts, my old 1998 Jeep 4.0 takes about 6.5 qts and my 2007 Jeep 5.7 Hemi takes about 7.5 qts. Boat, only 4.5 for the 4.3.

As it turns out my running problems which I thought were fuel system related really was a gradually failing ignition coil. I installed a known good coil and its starts and runs fine on the water hose. So because the coil I was using before was getting really hot I wanted to figure out if it was...

Ok Gen + I think is Merc speak for the 96 and up Vortec. I think you have the previous version so you can probably reuse your head bolts. I would: Clean clean clean the theads in the block and on the bolts. Mine were pretty rusty so I used new ARP head bolts.

Wonder if a Mightyvac would do the same job. I know they can be used to bleed brakes, but I use a Lisle one man brake bleeder, it's a simple device that works well.

That is pretty typical, my old cyl heads I'm sure would have been the same, so I would have had the machine shop do the valve job if they weren't cracked and the cooling passages weren't rust eroded. So you might wind up with better compression test results from doing that.

Hard to say then, you'll get better results on a warmed up engine. One thing the owner should know, boats need more maintenance than vehicles, and an I/O power train is the most maintenance intensive type of marine propulsion that there is. So much so that I'd never buy another one for myself...

I think that would be fine because cool running marine engines often have deposits on the valves esp if the oil seals were leaking a bit. What were your compression test results? A good 4.3 will have between 160-170 psi.

It is really easy to tell though, just count the bolts on the intake manifold! 12 bolts is the Pre-Vortec (better sealing in my opinion) 8 bolts is Vortec (better heads, but intake sealing, well you gotta be careful) Also: the torque specs changed, there was actually a mistake in the Mercrusier...

Go back to the pic I posted of the engine casting # and the cyl head casting #, this is what you need to know to get the right parts for any of the Chevy small block series, the 4.3 gets real confusing due to all the variations, and even down to which plant they where made it. The serial # on...

I would not want to do work for a guy like that. In fact, most mechanics here, would not do the job unless you let them do it right. Not checking the heads, when you have water in the oil and no other smoking gun cause, is not doing it right! So what's he going to say to you when you put it all...

I don’t think so it’s just be careful with jumpstarts and keep in mind sobs boats only have a 55 amp alternator not like on the vehicles we have now a days with much higher amp output (130 is common).

https://www.drivparts.com/part-details.html?brand_code=BCWV&part_number=SS%2072530&part_name=Engine%20Valve%20Stem%20Oil%20Seal%20Set this is from Fel-Pro, I used 1995 as a model year because the one you're working on is a pre-Vortec, the true Vortec came online in 1996, and they supposedly fit...