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I have used a sishkabob stick ..you can feel the piston reversing just after TDC

2x4 works to :) _ info from the ETEC world.... post FICHT

just unbolt and disconnect the shift rod #36 up top should do it see under the trim tab do no remove #71 anode bolt

so is it a 94 or a 97 for my info ?

your mdl# E90ELEUC should be a 1997 not a 1994 https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1997&hp=90&model=E90ELEUC this place had easy PDF downloadable books and I have used it for the Johnson Evinrude oldies manual .... 450 pages 20$$...

any grey hose used here... inside plastic liner is known to deteriorate and impeed fuel flow.

likely not ...to many rabbits. 3 year old post with no follow ups .

speaks for itself doesn't it ? also protects accessories from power spikes, over voltages etc..

i doubt adding a regulator function would cause concerns. Such parts and plain jane rectifiers are dirt cheap on Amazon and could be mounted as a replacement to expensive OEM.. up to you

oops... forgot to add link https://www.socalaomci.com/library/johnson_service_manual_10th_edition.pdf

At START the cam under the magneto plate needs to be pulled back in so the the carb roller just touches it at the mark referred to by Racerone. download this book that covers Johnson servicing (and cousin Evinrudes) dowload is free so just print locally double sided pages and bind in...

how to kill a common old style magneto... with a basic normally open switch... ( service manual clip out of a johnson manual (service bulletin) on a key simply wire the points to the M posts on most key's where the M's are shorted by the key inner contacts to service old style...

6 years later ?

black is usually ground this is a 16 year old post best to start a new post !!!

old carbs also have a vent if vapors build up thanks to the need to balance with the atmosphere to let fuel enter the bowl...... natural venting not available in closed fuel systems especially....injection systems

if not leaking ...still far from GC innards me I would drill a small hole maybe 1-16th up the crack grind the surface a bit to rough it up smooth out everything with high psi JB weld ......after a good wash of the crack with carb cleaner inspect a few times and if JB does not show stress...

if fiddling with the base gasket caused a reaction ... I would continue to focus on the pump base & gasket before going OEM...pump. carefully apply a light coat of sealant on both sides of the pump gasket and remount. I have never seen the need to do so by ...hey we can't see the problem...

2 man job.... one pulls one feels you have no options but to confirm pulses or not because buying an expensive OEM square pump will not solve the underlying problem... fuel must reach the carb.

ok first things is never give up...when reassembling these pumps mounting a few critical parts properly helps the reassembly ... mainly the springs ( big and tiny one with mushroom heads. To make certain they do not flip over I always wet the spring base with crazy glue to hold things...

how does one confuse Mercury with OMC products ?