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just a word of caution on overpowering. It may certainly work fine but Insurance companies will look for any OUT if a risk (overpowering) was not communicated to them and a claim for liability or loss is made...! remember " REFUSE - DENY- LITTIGATE IN COURT !!" just saying.

not FICHT but likely same considerations since carbs can probably excluded as the problem source. always post engine mdl # . I don't see much FICHT in EV 1996 200hp model listing so AI seems off a bit..again :-( ai has been informed...:-) it kind of works like a HAL9000

well first thing is to do a full physical inspection of components ( wiring, coils, etc...any burnt odors ?, how is engine cooling itself ? check PH with IR gun. Pack could be developping a " hot" problem since it feeds the tach. and you see sudden drops to 0 ! more suggestions to come...

that weed eater tring is BRP part # 3456578 30$/foot :-)

SPECIAL sweet tea ??

here is one answer from an AI source... If your E50PL4SSC is a year 2000 Evinrude/Johnson 50 HP 4-stroke, and it overheats mainly at higher RPM, I would check these items in this order: Water pump impeller and housing Most common cause. Even if the telltale stream looks good, the pump may not...

fuel burn is always hot it is not the cause. Lack of proper cooling water circulating inside the powerhead to draw out the heat allows it to build up so check impeller, thermostat, internal cooling channel obtruction (sediments). POST your mdl#

ok your project is almost a modern engine with electronics and all but...it is the grand child of a long established community of oldies ( JOhnson RDs being cousins) and much of your servicing involves the same concepts incl.. stuff like carbutarors . download yourself a copy of this free...

great find.. suggest also you consult twith thetec owners site dedicated to ETEC support https://www.etecownersgroup.com/

is it the choke solenoid type ? if so... can you confirm it is choking properly

https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1976&hp=15&model=15R76A&manufacturer=Johnson&section=REWIND+STARTER

if it isn'T sealing ypou will see soon enough...go 10 minutes and see what happens ...

True ??

hum... why not grind away the top of the crankshaft to clean the threads down maybe 1/8 inch clean up the threads with the nut or use a proper die to recut them clean. Clean up all that magneto !! check coils, plug wires condensers points etc... dowload this book still good enough...

chat GPT says it is a voltage regulator not just a rectifier. static battery voltage should rise when the engine runs. if not bad regulaor or lack of AC from stator... check ALL connections !! see parts list... expensive little thing... not OEM but amazon has cheaper stuff to do the...

3 phase rectifier need 3 yellows carrying each stator AC power at 120 degree phase difference..... each positive phase routed out to the battery for charging. you could try a 3 phase rectifier from amazon as a test (dirt cheap and higher capacity handling fwiw...) it won'T regulate but...

morning fog... no threads on the taper but that Dupont SIlicone stuff is amazing sometimes.

keep soaking the key way... the release agent used should work its way around the threads...

soak soak soak . if heat does not work try freezing... a keyboard dust spray can.....can cool things down fast A can from a dollar store will shoot pure spray held upside down and should help... spray the bolt only then heat up the FW fast to create a shock....try puller while heating...

that should be #2 possible open/shorted injector or ignition coil you need EV diagnostic to get the code to be specific or... start testing ohms values on inj and coil primaries.... & compare to specs. see manual if all good electrically ohms wise..........inj. could be...