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Hey @sphelps

boat is a 1988. it will cost more to fix than its worth. also, it has a 305 cubic inch motor, not a 305hp motor three things that say run: its a 1980's bayliner its OMC powered it has sat outside for a long time it will cost you about $3000 to fix the hull, about another $2500 in...

pull the distributor cap. if you have points, you should have a ballast resistor or ballast wire. if you have electronic distributor from volvo, then no ballast resistor/wire. if aftermarket pertronix, it will need a ballast resistor.

great point. the AQ151 did come with points

trim wires will be green for down and blue for up

about the end of the starter, just above the oil pan rail

The Admiral's closet is coming together slowly. Tonight is anniversary dinner at Owens Fish Camp

that is not USCG or IMO approved. a squeeze ball in an I/O is a fire hazzard

Look up the specs on fiberglassics. minimum HP is 75% of the max rated

that sagging windshield frame says the stringers, transom and floor are rotten. plan on a full restoration

did you replace the stringers and the transom? those rotted long before the floor did

crank for 10 seconds, let it rest for 60. repeat (this will get the fuel pump to pull fuel and get the oil flowing in the motor then pump the throttle and start normally.

Propane works well too. unlit propane torch. run it inside the wheel, then strike a match and toss it.

the 4 drain locations are the two at the bottom of the block, and one on each exhaust manifold.

short shaft. the transom on there will measure about 15"

sitting for a year ? bad fuel or plugged carb passages would be my first thought

yes

Unbolt it and verify you have a problem first before firing up tools of destruction.

Value will be dependent on geographic location and condition of the boat

Look for a complete Mercruiser longtail and eliminate the OMC stuff. You will have to redo the transom