1965 Starcraft Jupiter Restore/Repurpose

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
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338
Got the foam fitted and the first segment of the deck in place before bad weather set in. Used up a bin full of foam scraps from previous projects!


 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
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Finished laying in deck pieces today. First up: drill out for passenger seating. As part of the "family fun boat in summer, hunting boat in fall" plan, I want to have a removable back-2-back seat, revealing a swivel seat mount when removed. Swivel seat mount bolts are backed with 1/4" al which had been reinforcing the mulch transom. It will be completely covered by the b2b, which will be held in place with 1/4" ss thumb screws in ss t nuts. All holes sealed with 5200.




Deck pieces blind riveted to stringers and ribs with 3/16" rivets (most 5/8" grip, some 3/4")




 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Looks like you used regular size dome flange rivets for the decking. Sorry to say but I'm not sure how well those heads will hold up for you, they're not very substantial when compared to large flange heads.

Is that one of those hand operated rivet tools? :faint2: After using that tool through the resto just remember your grip when shaking someones hand, you don't want to hurt them :lol:
 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
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338
Reinstalled these side braces




And drew out the lines for the bowectomy


No going back now!


Acreage!
 

skyfisher

Seaman Apprentice
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Feb 13, 2013
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45
Wow you really went for it how much did you leave on the bow looks really small up there. On my Jupiter it had a brace at the front that was where I stoped adds a lot of structural support. Did you stop at your back most line looks like you could still add a good brace there. On my jupiter they had an angle brace at the front of the side panel I built a couple more for each side to brace the gunnels you probably noticed after removing dash your gonna need a good amount of bracing added as well as tie in to your dash. Your sure moving along making good time.
 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
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Skyfisher-- I left 14" at the bow. I know it's going to need substantial bracing for that to work. So, I dug up some 3/4 arauco ply....






 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
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I'm also going to run angle under the ply all the way across the back edge of the nose for extra goodness.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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Hey you're pics are not coming through or being displayed properly on this end, it's like they're a link and by clicking on them it goes to your PB.

This is how I see your posts.

no pix.jpg
 

Dabbler_E

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
338
Hey you're pics are not coming through or being displayed properly on this end, it's like they're a link and by clicking on them it goes to your PB.

This is how I see your posts.


Huh -- they're coming through fine on both my laptop (2 different browsers) and iphone. Anybody else having issues?
 

knezzer

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 8, 2012
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214
I see the pictures ok. Boat coming along great. Nice flipping method!
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Jan 12, 2013
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13,822
Looks like PB decided to throw the pics up, I can see them now. I guess for a free hosting site it can't always be perfect.

Looking good, I added 3/4" ply to my bow deck too for the trolling motor, makes for a nice solid area.
 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
338
Looks like PB decided to throw the pics up, I can see them now. I guess for a free hosting site it can't always be perfect.

Looking good, I added 3/4" ply to my bow deck too for the trolling motor, makes for a nice solid area.


Thanks WM. I hope you don't see this for a while because you're out trying out your new prop. :D
 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
338
Used the ply to help bend over the edges





For the rest, I set up an angle along the edge of a picnic table, and used some of the oak that used to support the bow to clamp down on the top edge.



 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
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338
And secured the nose skin back down with 3/16 x 1/4" rivets, with the ply underneath. I'll use ss bolts through the skin, ply, and angle brackets underneath ( which are already solid riveted to the hull). Fortunately, the holes for mounting cleats are directly over the angle brackets.



 

skyfisher

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 13, 2013
Messages
45
The plywood should add some strength. You made some good progress there with the bending. Looking really good.
 
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Dabbler_E

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
338
Thanks for your kind words Skyfisher and pckeen. I sold my hunting boat this spring to make sure I have incentive to get this Jupiter water ready before duck season. Nothing like a burning bridge behind you to keep you moving forward!
 

Dabbler_E

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Apr 20, 2009
Messages
338
To any SuperSport owners out there:

Spent an hour sitting in the passenger seat this afternoon making motorboat noises, and thinking about the consoles and raised front deck. It occurred to me that a big question is how far the consoles should be from the seats and since I'm basically trying to turn a Jupe into an SS, maybe I can use dimensions from SS

So -- what's the distance from the front of the seat to the back panel of your consoles? And, how deep are your consoles (measured from frontmost edge to back panel)?

Thanks!
 
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