1968 Glassmaster Runabout

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

I'll tell you what... I would not want to be the one to try to take it out

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Well it's official, my first angle grinder is no longer

On a good note, I just got a sale flyer from Harbor Freight

Looks like I'll be picking up a few cheap angle griders tonight

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Picked up 2 of these tonight for $9.99 a piece.

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-buffers/4-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-95578.html

I am not expecting too much for so cheap but figured maybe alternate each grinder for no more that 5 minutes on and 5 minutes cooldown and see how long they last.

Is it ok to glass if the temp is between 65-70 degress F?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Yep temps over 55 are ok. HINT: rubber band a scotch brite pad over the air slots to filter the dust out of those grinders and they'll last longer.

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Yep temps over 55 are ok. HINT: rubber band a scotch brite pad over the air slots to filter the dust out of those grinders and they'll last longer.

Thanks wood!!

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Got the fillets fixed up and final sanding done. Then did a 6" 1.5 CSM tab:

Once this cured, I sanded (as all I had for Resin was Poly with wax).

Checked the hourly temps online and check the current temp in the boat... Looks good for the next layer:

Then did a layer of 1.5 CSM to seal the bow side of the transom and top edges:

I will have some air bubbles to sand out but should not be too bad.

I then plan on adding an 8 inch 1708 tab. Then a layer of 1708 on the transom face and a final 10" tab of 1708.

Let me know if you think that will not be good enough??

 

[ChrisChase]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Awesome thread!!

Very nice work on the transom! Take a look at my thread, its pretty similar to yours! link below!

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=515438&highlight=classic+speed+boat+restoration

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Awesome thread!!

Very nice work on the transom! Take a look at my thread, its pretty similar to yours! link below!

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=515438&highlight=classic+speed+boat+restoration

Thanks CC.

heading to your thread now

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

FS, I'd recommend an 8" tab of 1708 and then a full layer of 1708 with a 4" overlap and a final full layer of 1708 with a 10" overlap. DONE!! If you don't have a bubble buster roller I would highly recommend you purchase one. It really helps with the air bubbles

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Thanks WOOD!

Is a bubble buster different than a thin-fin roller? I do have a thin-fin roller but I could not work out all of the bubbles.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Nope same thing. Make sure an apply signigicant pressure when you roll. You should be able to get it bubble free. Roll in all directions.

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Got the wax layer sanded off where the 8" 1708 tabbing was going and got that tabbing done:

I do have some air pockest to fix.

The 1708 was quit a bit different to work with than the 1.5oz. CSM.

When I do the full layer of 1708, I think I will try wetting out the mat side, then put it in place and wet out the rest and see how that goes.

As always, I am open to any advice/suggestions.

Thanks everyone

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

I'd roll the resin on the transom first, thin layer, then apply the 1708 and roll it down using a 6" roller filled with resin. I'd finish it off using the bubble buster roller. I roll it from middle out to the corners and down to the hull and up to the top. This get resin flowing into the cloth from both sides. Anywhoooo that's how I do it and it works for me when working on applying a full layer of the stuff.

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

I'd roll the resin on the transom first, thin layer, then apply the 1708 and roll it down using a 6" roller filled with resin. I'd finish it off using the bubble buster roller. I roll it from middle out to the corners and down to the hull and up to the top. This get resin flowing into the cloth from both sides. Anywhoooo that's how I do it and it works for me when working on applying a full layer of the stuff.

I'll give that a try when I do the full layer. I'll pickup a 6" foam roller later this week.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Use a 3/8" short nap fleece roller not foam.

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Use a 3/8" short nap fleece roller not foam.

Got it

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

I am at the point where I will be buying more supplies and was wondering what is best to fillet the new stringers in with.
I will be bedding the new stringers in with PL Premium and setting them off the hull 1/4".
Should I just use some PB (resin, milled fibers and cabo-sil) or something that is more of a fairing compound (resin, microballons)?

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

Got the transom pretty much done.

2 layers of over sized 1708 glassed in. I do have some air pockets to tend to but pretty much done:

Started on the stringers.... boy these things are in there! I know the stringer wood under the glass is rotten but there must be 2 layers of glass and 2 or 3 layers of woven roving to cut through.

Geee... even in 1968 they were into recycling... Found out where they put the used toilet paper rolls... LOL!

They put them in the bottom of the hull and glassed over them and used them for supports/hull stiffeners

 

[Friscoboater]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

That looks real nice. Don't freak out about a few little air bubbles. I am convinced that you need a vacuum bag system to completely get rid of them all.

 

[fstorm08]

Re: 1968 Glassmaster Runabout

That looks real nice. Don't freak out about a few little air bubbles. I am convinced that you need a vacuum bag system to completely get rid of them all.

Thanks Frisco