1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

This post was better suited as a PM. Carry on, please.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Hey PM, that attachment does not work.... for me anyway.

 

[Starman8]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

The guys giving you advice are Aces and excellent restorers.

I only mentioned the alternative/additional methods because your hull is in far worse shape than most, and the USUAL methods may end up insufficient, and nobody wants to remove a brand new deck installation.

Think outside, think a cereal bowl. Any hole driven in it is a possible/potential breach, regardless of whether original design, or not. The original was called flawed by its own manufacturer, otherwise, they would still use it, but they don't.

Use the PM if the usual methods aren't satisfactory, but verify before driving and punching the first deck rivet.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

This post was better suited as a PM. Carry on, please.

say what??????

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Sorry to confuse you and others.... was referring to my own post that I had edited... check your PM Box.

 

[Grandad]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

So how do i fix the problem areas, G-flex, gluvit inside, try to pound the bad areas like the seams out and seal up, or just leave them and deal with it?????
thanks for the help guys, really need some on this part.

Hi rrumba, I'm not an experienced "body man" but in my limited experience, trying to pound out dents in aluminum is futile. The ripples are because the aluminum sheet has been stretched. You'll probably stretch the skin even more trying to pound them out and end up with a weak area that will flex like the bottom of a tin can. The last thing you want is to keep bending the area around the ripple at every wave you hit. Flexing causes nearby rivets to leak and work hardens and cracks the aluminum sheet.

If it was mine, I'd put a HEAVY aluminum sheet patch on the inside with 3M 5200. I'd remove the existing rivets in the entire area so the sheet can spread the stresses as you reshape it. I'd put additional holes and nuts and bolts such that it pulled the hull flat against the heavy patch while the 5200 is still wet. The bolts could remain, but I would replace them with solid rivets. Using closed end "pop" rivets is convenient because you can work without a partner, but they can't be as strong as the original solid rivets.

You can't heat aluminum to reshape it like you can with steel. There is a critical temperature at which aluminum will go from an unyielding stiffness to molten metal that you don't want to reach. And in regard to water in the stiffeners: any trapped water will eventually become corrosive to aluminum. Even water between 2 aluminum sheets will cause "crevice corrosion". Starcraft mistake or not, I'd be inclined to put drain holes anywhere I thought water might accumulate. Letting water out is a lot easier than trying to keep water out. As long as the water remains "fresh", you won't get any corrosion. - Grandad

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Hey Grandad, thanks for the fly by........

sounds like that is the consensus to leave it alone and repair what is there to prevent leakage. think i might just use some jb weld on the outside and push it in as far as i can to help prevent the possible flexing in the future and make it a more "solid" location again. I do plan to rebuck the rivets that are leaking and the ones at that location as well.

i agree with more drain holes as well as it is easier to let water out than try and keep out any water

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Roger,

Just checking in... I know you sent the IMP into hibernation for the winter... Are you going to able to work on the tinny over the winter. Jason tells me that banging on metal boats is an excellent cold weather sport/activity.

Hope you are well.

Patrick

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

thanks for stopping in there PM, since you are being lazy on your own...

well the update is this:

Weather is not cooperating AT ALL. when it's good and i start then it gets wet, or temp drops, when all is aligned i am not there, so i called it quits...
1. recycled boat for 1k
2. sold engine, controls, tilt and harness for 800.00
3. sold trailer for 500.00
4. chopped up the IMP
5. putting the engine and the electric shift drive up for sale
6. selling trailer
7. shooting myself in the foot for getting started...............

other than that it's all good...............


well the only truth to the above is the weather, and selling the electric shift OMC and OMC V8.

I picked up the paint for it and still have to mix it up to get the desired color. with the weather not working with me i am getting very little done at this point. the hull is almost cleaned and ready for self etching primer. once the rain quits i will finish up the last of the paint removal, rebuck the rivets, then get the paint going. That was supposed to happen this week but the rain came before it was supposed to and it is still outside. hopefully the rain will quit and i can get it painted or at least the bottom so i can get her flipped and taken inside.

VERY SLOW, VERY VERY SLOW on this end. so i am lurking right now and trying to work something out with my friend concerning his paint booth.. might be able to to do the painting and the glass work over the winter, still trying to work that out though.

 

[boatnut74]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

That was funny. Working in the cold sucks for sure. I made a makeshift shop out of my boat with tarps and got a couple heaters and lights to put in it. Redneck for sure but I wanted to work on it this winter.

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

well the only truth to the above is the weather, and selling the electric shift OMC and OMC V8.

Where/how did a find a buyer...that's great news. I need to unload mine as well, but have not had any nibbles on C.L.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

wow it has been a while since i updated this one. pictures and progress coming.

PM i have not sold it yet, been lazy about that but this weekend i am putting everything up on the bay and clist that i have for the motor, dirve, controls, steering and helm

 

[Pmccraney]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Roger,

Glad to you have you back.. and to see you workin' on something. Truth be told, I like your tinny and its probably the quicker path to a splash given its metal, has an o/b, etc... Will look forward to seeing the pics, etc..

 

[WeldZilla]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

you know a friend of mine's dad has an old Starcraft that he knocked a dent out of the bottom of and it had some seeping rivets. Nothing horrible but seeping. He had the bottom of his boat Rhino-lined on the outside. He claims its quieter and actually picked up a few mph. I can't verify this but my friend is not known as a BS'er. He claims all leaks sealed

WZ

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Ok quick question........

i am epoxying 2 - 3/4" pieces of aruaco ply to make up the transom. is is necessary to thicken up the epoxy to glue them together? my plan is to coat each the one side of each one to allow penetration into the wood then once it gets some what tacky to put another layer down, place both together and clamp together. So again is it necessary or just a good idea to thicken the epoxy between them? how many coats of epoxy should i use to seal it up all around?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Nah, my opinion, you don't have to thicken it.

Also, I don't think you'd need to wait till it's tacky either.

Just coat both sides (or just one liberally), put the 2 together, sink a couple of screws so they don't move on ya, throw a bunch of weight on, and let em cure.

I feel pretty good with 3 coats (or more), edges doubled.

Rock on man

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

thanks JO... thats what i was thinking. it gets glued today.......

pics to follow hopefully tonight of all the progresss.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

Good to see you back on the SC, Roger. Putting her back together has to feel good.

 

[wlg]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

I just read your thread. Looking forward to see how it turns out. I have a 70 Sylvan Sportster on here that is alot like your Starcraft except I have an open bow. I had some repairs that needed made to the aluminum and I used water weld epoxy stick. It gets hard as steel and can be sanded to shape. Just an idea. If you still need T bolts for your windshield let me know? I have about ten of them without the nuts i'll send to you. I just need an address. I had to buy more then I needed for my rebuild because thats how they were being sold on ebay.
You will just need 1/4-20 stainless nuts. I'll never use the rest of them. I plan on a pontoon for the next project.

 

[rrumba]

Re: 1975 Starcraft 140 Evinrude OB -- Restoration IN PROGRESS FINALLY

hey wlg, thanks for stopping in, i will hit you up on pm as i will be needing them.

on anoter note, i have some extra closed end rivets if anyone could use some. i had to buy a box of 250 to get the 4 that i needed. if interested let me know.