GT1000000
Rear Admiral
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2011
- Messages
- 4,916
Re: 1982 Sylvan Bassboat project
Hiya Craig,
Good luck on the Marathon!
Stoked to hear you got the rest of your supplies...now you can start fillin that hull with some structure...
You know the basics, pre-soak the wood with resin and add a layer of CSM...
Now there are a couple schools of thought on how best to attach the transom plate to the hull...
PB or 2-3 layers of resin soaked CSM...
From what I have read throughout the forum, both will work equally well with only one caveat...the CSM Layers requires that the hull face, where the plate attaches, be pretty fairly smooth and level acroos its entire contact surface to insure thorough contact between the parts, whereas with the PB, you just have to have enough in between the two parts, to fill any voids...
I attached mine using the PB, because of the above reason...the hull face was not perfectly level and I didn't feel like going through an entire process of filling and fairing, plus with the tabbing and laminating over the top, I think it came out "Tank Strong"...
The biggest suggestions I could give are to drill several holes in the hull, to allow some of the excess PB a place to escape and not possibly form any air bubbles.
Oh CARP! I just remembered, you have already painted your hull, so the idea of drilling into it is not so good...the other option, is to drill your OB mounting holes and the splashwell drain hole, use those as relief holes...
Make a bit more than you think you'll need, cause this is one time you don't want to run short...you can take a tip I read and have 2 or 3 batches of PB, pre-measured, but NOT pre-mixed...if you need it, you can have an assistant mix it up in about a minute, faster if you are using the drill motor method, and keep right on going...the stuff you don't mix up, can go right back in its container...
Application can be by trowel, which I fully intended to use, but couldn't remember for the life of me where I had put it...I have since found it and added it to my glassing tool arsenal...
The method I used...I call, the gloop...:facepalm:...pour it on, spread it out with a bondo spreader, to approximately 1/8-1/4 inch thick, slap the transom plate, give it a bit of a jiggle, kind of like setting a tile, and clamp, then spread out the PB that oozed out into the best possible fillet you can, under the rushed conditions you will probably be experiencing, then after several hectic and stressful minutes of this, you will have earned a break...if you will be continuing after this, then you can start getting your tabbing and lamination supplies prepped for the final installment of the transom...once the PB has kicked off, and it is hard, you may proceed...
If needed, do a quick grinding of any hard bumps, lumps, or straight up pokey glass strands...mix a small batch of PB to fill any spots you couldn't get to earlier, then you can do the tabbing and lamming...
You can, if properly prepared, and the clamps don't get in the way, do all of the above while it is still wet...but you literally should practice it both in your head and for real, with whoever will be assisting you...
Have Fun and I'll be looking forward to pictures of you actually participating in both Marathons, the running one and the transom one...
PS- Some very useful tips and reminders...
Double and triple check all your tools and supplies before mixing your first batch of resin...
Cut about half the bristles off the chip brush to make it stiffer for dabbing airbubbles out
Keep a container with Acetone handy and some paper towels or rags...for quick clean up or dumping in reuseable tools for soaking and cleaning
Keep talcum powder handy for keeping the inevitable sticky tackiness at bay
Put on at least 2 or even 3 and 4 layers of latex gloves on, as they get mucked up, you just peel off the top layer, and use talcum powder when putting on each layer, makes them easier to get on over one another...
Hiya Craig,
Good luck on the Marathon!
Stoked to hear you got the rest of your supplies...now you can start fillin that hull with some structure...
You know the basics, pre-soak the wood with resin and add a layer of CSM...
Now there are a couple schools of thought on how best to attach the transom plate to the hull...
PB or 2-3 layers of resin soaked CSM...
From what I have read throughout the forum, both will work equally well with only one caveat...the CSM Layers requires that the hull face, where the plate attaches, be pretty fairly smooth and level acroos its entire contact surface to insure thorough contact between the parts, whereas with the PB, you just have to have enough in between the two parts, to fill any voids...
I attached mine using the PB, because of the above reason...the hull face was not perfectly level and I didn't feel like going through an entire process of filling and fairing, plus with the tabbing and laminating over the top, I think it came out "Tank Strong"...
The biggest suggestions I could give are to drill several holes in the hull, to allow some of the excess PB a place to escape and not possibly form any air bubbles.
Oh CARP! I just remembered, you have already painted your hull, so the idea of drilling into it is not so good...the other option, is to drill your OB mounting holes and the splashwell drain hole, use those as relief holes...
Make a bit more than you think you'll need, cause this is one time you don't want to run short...you can take a tip I read and have 2 or 3 batches of PB, pre-measured, but NOT pre-mixed...if you need it, you can have an assistant mix it up in about a minute, faster if you are using the drill motor method, and keep right on going...the stuff you don't mix up, can go right back in its container...
Application can be by trowel, which I fully intended to use, but couldn't remember for the life of me where I had put it...I have since found it and added it to my glassing tool arsenal...
The method I used...I call, the gloop...:facepalm:...pour it on, spread it out with a bondo spreader, to approximately 1/8-1/4 inch thick, slap the transom plate, give it a bit of a jiggle, kind of like setting a tile, and clamp, then spread out the PB that oozed out into the best possible fillet you can, under the rushed conditions you will probably be experiencing, then after several hectic and stressful minutes of this, you will have earned a break...if you will be continuing after this, then you can start getting your tabbing and lamination supplies prepped for the final installment of the transom...once the PB has kicked off, and it is hard, you may proceed...
If needed, do a quick grinding of any hard bumps, lumps, or straight up pokey glass strands...mix a small batch of PB to fill any spots you couldn't get to earlier, then you can do the tabbing and lamming...
You can, if properly prepared, and the clamps don't get in the way, do all of the above while it is still wet...but you literally should practice it both in your head and for real, with whoever will be assisting you...
Have Fun and I'll be looking forward to pictures of you actually participating in both Marathons, the running one and the transom one...
PS- Some very useful tips and reminders...
Double and triple check all your tools and supplies before mixing your first batch of resin...
Cut about half the bristles off the chip brush to make it stiffer for dabbing airbubbles out
Keep a container with Acetone handy and some paper towels or rags...for quick clean up or dumping in reuseable tools for soaking and cleaning
Keep talcum powder handy for keeping the inevitable sticky tackiness at bay
Put on at least 2 or even 3 and 4 layers of latex gloves on, as they get mucked up, you just peel off the top layer, and use talcum powder when putting on each layer, makes them easier to get on over one another...
