1995 Crownline 202BR Restore

[beta]

I have a space heater running in the garage but it can only do so much when it's 15-20deg outside. Once the overnight lows go back to above freezing, I can get in the mid 60s with the heater. Fingers crossed... I should be back at it this weekend.

 

[beta]

I was able to foam in the two side pieces adjacent the motor mounts. I made a tent with a blanket to get the temp up. It's a pain to do all the tape/plastic bag prep but the foam is so sticky I can't image trying to get the overflow off without it.



I'll fill the edges with PB and cover with 2 layers of CSM. Temps are suppose to be up this weekend so hopefully can get that done and complete the ski locker. Once that's completed, time for the decking!!!!

 

[bakerjw]

I assume that you'll fill the voids with foam.

When I did the decking on my Stratos, I mixed up epoxy with a slow hardener and added cabosil and cut 1/4" glass. I then put it in a gallon Ziploc bag and squeezed it out like frosting on the stringers and bulkheads. My decking had the bottom side fully glassed and was then set on top before eventually getting tabbed to the side of the hull and down along the stringers.

 

[beta]

Glassed in the boards between motor mount and the stinger a few days ago. The void under the board was filled with foam. Pleased with how it turned out. The whole area will be gel coated.

 

[beta]

Thinking more about the decking now. Question regarding securing the decking. All the edges will be tabbed to the hull, transom and open side of the stringers around the engine area. I was planning to use cleats on the stringers to avoid screwing into the stringers. My question is do I...

1) Secure the deck with screws, and therefore install cleats, on every section of stringer/bulkhead that contacts the deck board.
or
2) Install cleats on the stingers that are on the outside edge of any individual deck piece and secure with screws. Then use PL on the top of all the stringers that make contact with the deck board.
or
3) Only use screws on the deck board edges that are not tabbed into the boat. These would be the edges where 2 deck boards come together. Then use PL on all stringer edges same as #2.

In case #2, I'd have the tabbing and/or screws around the perimeter of each deck board with PL to secure all the interior contact surfaces with the stringers/bulkheads. Case #3 is the same but without screws on the edges that tabbed in.

Appreciate any thoughts/suggestions or other resources on this topic.

 

[Pmt133]

I did cleats to screw to then made peanutbutter to put on the stringer tops and cleats to actually hold down the deck. The screws are secondary.

 

[beta]

Thanks. Is PB "better" than PL for use in this case?

 

[Pmt133]

I would say so. The PB offers a more rigid bond vs the PL. I'd rather the bond between deck hull and stringer to be one unit. Not that the PL is bad but the PB works better as a general adhesive in my experience or for bedding... you want more of a bond here.

 

[bakerjw]

I'm not a big fan of PL. I used it in some spots and although it held well for a while, it just gave up the ghost.

As I showed in my pics, the thick mix of cut glass with fumed silica was all that I used. Didn't use any screws. I am cutting off the cap here as soon as I get some decent weather and will then remove the old plywood floor that I put in 12ish years ago. I'll report on how bond without screws held.

By cleats, I assume that you mean an extra piece of wood alongside the stringers.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

What is PL?

 

[beta]

What is PL?

It's a construction adhesive from Loctite.

By cleats, I assume that you mean an extra piece of wood alongside the stringers.

Yes.

Thanks for the advice. In retrospect, it makes sense that screws would not be necessary. The entire stringer/bulkhead structure is secured to the boat without screws. I was also scratching my head about how to get the screws lined up properly with the cleats so this eliminates all that mess. Plus, no holes in the deck or the stingers feels like a great thing!

 

[Pmt133]

So in my case it was pretty straight forward. The screws were more or less to hold the deck straight. The original deck was stapled to the stringers and then bonded to the hull with expanding foam... thats it. I added the cleats as sacrificial. There are no real changes front to back so for mine it was just snap a line and go. Obviously construction dictates how to do it. I bedded all holes with 5200. Should out last me. (You can see the cleats and other extensions that serve no structural purpose are adhered with PL as I had a ton of it laying around) the deck was tabbed to the inside of the stringers and hull with a continuous sheet of 1708... it really could've been a floating sheet of wood the way I did it.

 

[bakerjw]

IMHO anyone who does what we do is certifiably insane or a super hero!
I love seeing other people progress!
Back in 2014ish when I took on my rebuild, I was thinking "What have I done!"
Now, with the right hull, it's like "Wet transom? Water in stringers? How low will you go on the price?"

 

[Pmt133]

IMHO anyone who does what we do is certifiably insane or a super hero!
I love seeing other people progress!
Back in 2014ish when I took on my rebuild, I was thinking "What have I done!"
Now, with the right hull, it's like "Wet transom? Water in stringers? How low will you go on the price?"

If I knew how dry it was going to be when I did mine I wouldn't have even worried about borrowing my aunts garage. From February to September we had something like 7 inches of rain total... rained about 1 day a month lol.

If something really cool popped up I'd do it again but this is the boat I wanted. It's exactly how I wanted it now too. If I found dad's first boat (1977 invader Aquarius with a I6 merc I/O) I'd do that. Little 17 foot bow rider you don't have to care about with a pad. Does like 50-55 mph and small enough to bring on any trip. That'd be cool. But it would be in tandem with the 4 winns.

The only thing I would do different, and you can even see it in the photo above... the pad for the fuel tank ended up higher than the step into the cabin. Even with the drain tube that spot will hold water. On principle I want to fix it but so far it hasn't been a big enough issue (gotten more wet than drips from a bathing suit) since I finished the project.

 

[MikeSchinlaub]

If I found dad's first boat (1977 invader Aquarius with a I6 merc I/O) I'd do that.

We used to have a set of mold for the little GW Invaders. The bosses used to work for them. The owner sold them a few years ago.

 

[Pmt133]

We used to have a set of mold for the little GW Invaders. The bosses used to work for them. The owner sold them a few years ago.

Not a GW, invader boats iirc... which ai think was a Texas based company. His boss had a smaller GW with a 355. Pretty trick little thing.