1997 5.7L thunderbolt ignition. Slow crank

[findinghomer]

Is this a fuel pump btw?

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yes, that is a carter electric pump

 

[Scott06]

Apparently he hasn't done anything to it. Not even removed the heads , so no head gasket change and it has 100,000 mi on it, sounds like he just took all of the accessories off , added that manifold, cleaned it up and painted it . But is now " going in a different direction " He wants $1,800 . I know he's got a bunch of performance stuff that is of no interest to me , so I think I'm going to pass. I can get a used engine much cheaper than that.

I know either way they're going to be roll of the dice, so I think I'm going to roll them with Rapido full engine Assembly

check the reviews on rapido seems to be hit or miss there

 

[findinghomer]

check the reviews on rapido seems to be hit or miss there

Yes I've noticed that. On their Google reviews which aren't many they seem to be mixed. But being so little review I feel like people only want to leave a review when it's something negative. Everybody that's used them here on iboats that I have found were positive. So that's a good sign I suppose. But I think at this point unless I'm doing it myself (which I don't know how), anything's going to be hit or miss lol

 

[Scott06]

Yes I've noticed that. On their Google reviews which aren't many they seem to be mixed. But being so little review I feel like people only want to leave a review when it's something negative. Everybody that's used them here on iboats that I have found were positive. So that's a good sign I suppose. But I think at this point unless I'm doing it myself (which I don't know how), anything's going to be hit or miss lol

if you haven’t checked out MichIvan motorz worth a look

5.7L Vortec Marine Engine (1996-2020)

5.7L Vortec marine engine (1996-current)

michiganmotorz.com

 

[nola mike]

if you haven’t checked out MichIvan motorz worth a look

5.7L Vortec Marine Engine (1996-2020)

5.7L Vortec marine engine (1996-current)

michiganmotorz.com

Didn't compare all the specs, but have dealt with MM a few times for tech advice and buying other parts--these guys know their stuff and have great customer service. If everything was close in terms of price, I wouldn't hesitate going with them.

 

[Scott06]

Didn't compare all the specs, but have dealt with MM a few times for tech advice and buying other parts--these guys know their stuff and have great customer service. If everything was close in terms of price, I wouldn't hesitate going with them.

they were really good in my experience, although I bought a new extended base vs rebuilt. They gave me partial core for the old cracked block 4.3 and also worked with me to tweak their 'Silver' engine package to get it how I wanted it.

They swapped out the delco est for a TBV set up so I could keep my harness intact and deleted/credited the fuel pump as I had a good working one, kept my engine basically OEM except the Eddy 4 bbl.

 

[findinghomer]

Yes, that is a carter electric pump

Maybe dumb question, but is that Marine rated? Or do they have it there behind the engine just because it's sitting in a garage just so they can run it? Had a guy tell me they were supposed to be in the fuel tank

 

[Scott Danforth]

Most are marine rated. That style was not used by the OEMs. That is usually used by conversions

Vehicle installations may use an in-tank pump. However Marine installations do not because of the difference between a 4-cylinder with a carb or a multi point efi or an outboard would require the boat builder to know at least 4 months in advance which motor is going in

The marine world isn't that sophisticated

They use dumb tanks and mount the fuel pump to the motor

 

[findinghomer]

Most are marine rated. That style was not used by the OEMs. That is usually used by conversions

Vehicle installations may use an in-tank pump. However Marine installations do not because of the difference between a 4-cylinder with a carb or a multi point efi or an outboard would require the boat builder to know at least 4 months in advance which motor is going in

The marine world isn't that sophisticated

They use dumb tanks and mount the fuel pump to the motor

Okay so where it's mounted in that picture in the back of the block inline that is acceptable? Is there a designated bracket for that? Or do I have to fabricate something. I also had one of these engine rebuilders recommend I stick with a non-vortec but just upgrade the four barrel carb to make it easier More affordable and I will still add horsepower.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yes, it's acceptable

Mine is mounted in a plastic tub with the fuel filter and the two oil filters

You will have to make a bracket

It's your boat.build it like you want. The cost difference between vortec and non vortec is one tank of fuel. To me, the extra $ for 30 more hp is well spent

Boats are the world's most expensive hobby. More expensive than racing.

If your trying to save money, do the work yourself vs paying a mechanic $125/hr

 

[findinghomer]

Yes, it's acceptable

Mine is mounted in a plastic tub with the fuel filter and the two oil filters

You will have to make a bracket

It's your boat.build it like you want. The cost difference between vortec and non vortec is one tank of fuel. To me, the extra $ for 30 more hp is well spent

Boats are the world's most expensive hobby. More expensive than racing.

If your trying to save money, do the work yourself vs paying a mechanic $125/hr

Yep I am already doing everything myself that's why so many newbie questions because I've never had to install an engine that wasn't just drop in ready, but the one that was already in there. So mixing and matching parts is new to me. But I know I can do it I just have to learn a lot from you guys. And you've helped a ton.,

That's why I was leaning towards Rapido because they have a full complete drop-in vortec And the price was about the same as a long block remand , minus the fuel pump, but I can't even get them to answer a phone call and now not even emails so I don't think that's a good sign, what if I have issues. So now I'm back to getting a long block crate motor from a more reputable engine rebuilder And then swapping my parts over. I was talking to s&j engines who appear to have good feedback on all of the forums I went to and they actually contacted me back , last night he seemed really knowledgeable And even gave me some tips that were actually cost effective for me so he wasn't just trying to upsell me.. then I spoke with a local builder who suggested the same, keep the non-vortec block And just upgrade to the four barrel that way I can keep my manifold and mechanical pump and make it easier. While still adding a little bit of power. One thing that struck me odd from him though was he said the vortec manifolds are all produced for two barrels I thought it was the other way around. He was saying My two barrel will bolt right up to a vortec manifold..

 

[Scott Danforth]

then I spoke with a local builder who suggested the same, keep the non-vortec block And just upgrade to the four barrel that way I can keep my manifold and mechanical pump and make it easier. While still adding a little bit of power. One thing that struck me odd from him though was he said the vortec manifolds are all produced for two barrels I thought it was the other way around. He was saying My two barrel will bolt right up to a vortec manifold..

BS. Volvo Penta, Mercruiser, Ilmor, Indmar, PCM all slapped 4-barrels on the vortecs.

a bit of knowledge, Edelbrock and Volvo and PCM engines all got their manifolds from BARR Casting house back then. that is why the Volvo Manifolds and the Edelbrock manifolds look extremely similar and both are a dual alloy casting with brass lined water jackets in an aluminum manifold.

Indmar and Ilmore used their own casting houses.

Volvo used a 4-barrel adapter to run 2 barrels, as their standard mix was the 4-barrel manifold on carbed motors

Mercruiser used the stock cast iron manifold from GM purchased thru GMPP in both 2-barrel and 4-barrel variety for the carbureted motors. they also bought the MPI manifold thru GMPP for the EFI versions.

a mechanical fuel pump is $65 as of today. an electric fuel pump, pressure switch and relay is under $100

used dual alloy edelbrock and volvo manifolds are about $200. new edelbrocks are more.

the vortec heads and the roller cam is worth the price of admission. with a mild cam, you are looking at 330hp at the flywheel

the TBI motor heads (1988-1995) flow like crap, which is why you cant get a lot of power out of them.

you can put vortec heads on the non-roller block. that gets you a bump in power over the TBI heads, but significantly less than what you have

however you already have a roller block per this pic in post 107


unless your block is cracked, just have it reworked locally. I would bore it out only as needed, then buy a 3.75" stroker rotating assembly from Skip White or Competition Products and build a 6.2 liter. With vortec heads

 

[findinghomer]

By

BS. Volvo Penta, Mercruiser, Ilmor, Indmar, PCM all slapped 4-barrels on the vortecs.

a bit of knowledge, Edelbrock and Volvo and PCM engines all got their manifolds from BARR Casting house back then. that is why the Volvo Manifolds and the Edelbrock manifolds look extremely similar and both are a dual alloy casting with brass lined water jackets in an aluminum manifold.

Indmar and Ilmore used their own casting houses.

Volvo used a 4-barrel adapter to run 2 barrels, as their standard mix was the 4-barrel manifold on carbed motors

Mercruiser used the stock cast iron manifold from GM purchased thru GMPP in both 2-barrel and 4-barrel variety for the carbureted motors. they also bought the MPI manifold thru GMPP for the EFI versions.

a mechanical fuel pump is $65 as of today. an electric fuel pump, pressure switch and relay is under $100

used dual alloy edelbrock and volvo manifolds are about $200. new edelbrocks are more.

the vortec heads and the roller cam is worth the price of admission. with a mild cam, you are looking at 330hp at the flywheel

the TBI motor heads (1988-1995) flow like crap, which is why you cant get a lot of power out of them.

you can put vortec heads on the non-roller block. that gets you a bump in power over the TBI heads, but significantly less than what you have

however you already have a roller block per this pic in post 107
View attachment 418356

unless your block is cracked, just have it reworked locally. I would bore it out only as needed, then buy a 3.75" stroker rotating assembly from Skip White or Competition Products and build a 6.2 liter. With vortec heads

Okay thanks for that info, so the motor is coming out either tomorrow or Thursday. should I pull the lag bolts out of the stringers or the nuts from the motor mounts? I know last time I did this I pulled the lag bolts from the stringers so that when I put the engine back in it would be aligned already. But if I'm switching the engine not sure that's going to help unless I can Mark where my current bolts are and try to get it as close as possible onto the motor mount

 

[Scott06]

By

Okay thanks for that info, so the motor is coming out either tomorrow or Thursday. should I pull the lag bolts out of the stringers or the nuts from the motor mounts? I know last time I did this I pulled the lag bolts from the stringers so that when I put the engine back in it would be aligned already. But if I'm switching the engine not sure that's going to help unless I can Mark where my current bolts are and try to get it as close as possible onto the motor mount

I did mine by the lag screws as generally they are easier to get to in the boat. You need to do an alignment regardless of marking the bolts even with same engine mounts etc I wouldn't trust is goes back in aligned...

 

[Scott Danforth]

If you sneeze at any of the bolts or simply run the motor. You need to check alignment (annual requirement)

If you pull the motor, even using laser alignment, you HAVE to realign

 

[findinghomer]

I did mine by the lag screws as generally they are easier to get to in the boat. You need to do an alignment regardless of marking the bolts even with same engine mounts etc I wouldn't trust is goes back in aligned...

Yeah I got you and I totally understand that . I did check my alignment last time I pulled the motor. I just pulled it from the lag bolts to give me a more accurate starting point. In fact it was dead on I didn't have to do any adjustment. Alignment tool in and out with ease, spent 10 years never had to adjust it after pulling the motor. But putting a new motor in I was just wondering if it would be good to pull it from the lag bolts just to get a good starting point maybe by counting the threads or measuring or something. I don't know I just know it worked well last time I pulled the motor

 

[findinghomer]

In my boat it would actually be easier to pull it from the adjustment nuts especially since I have everything apart. That's why I was asking,