Re: 21' ProLine CC Rebuild Progress with Pics
Interesting project you have going on there, not to rain on the parade but... a couple of points...ok 3 points
Thanks so much for taking to time to read my thread ? this type of feedback is awesome!
If I am doing something wrong, now is definitely the time to make a correction!
Okay ? here are my answers. . .
1.does anyone else see some dry layup here, is it my imagination or does some of the glassing look kinda dry. You may want to have someone with an experienced eye / take an 'on location' look at it so far...before going too far.
I too have been very concerned about dry glassing as this is the first time I have ever worked with fiberglass. Before each session of tabbing or adding more glass, I have come up with three check methods to determine the quality of my cured work:
First ? I poke, prod and scrape around with a metal putty knife to see if there are any soft spots or edges that can be peeled away.
Second ? I scruff my work up with a grinder to check for soft spots and delaminating.
Third ? after scruffing, I repeat step one while cleaning the area with Acetone.
In performing these checks, I have found a few areas of concern. The biggest area was a short section of tabbing I had pictured on page 2. In that example, I peeled and grinded all the old glass away and re-tabbed. The re-tabbing cured fine.
What do you think ? are my methods for detecting bad glass work sufficient?
2. I just read Bertram used to add a touch of green dye to their resin, it makes it easier to see whether the cloth is saturated through, makes the dry spots stand out a lot more before the resin cures.
I was going to add a coloring agent to do exactly what you said, but the poly resin that I got from US Composites is dark blue and pretty much does the same thing. . .
3. you will save a ton of work by using unwaxed resin, if you failed to sand between cured coats its no good. Is that why you were able to peel a layer off already? Due to the approach you are using, having lost the integrity of the rear corners, I would be diligent about this.
I unfortunately ran out of unwaxed Poly Resin and to be able to keep working, I picked up a gallon of Bondo-brand Poly Resin from Home Depot. I had no idea the Bondo stuff was waxed ?
trust me, I will not make that mistake again.
The layer I was able to peel off had been applied using an unwaxed Poly Resin - I think I just didnt do a good job on the application of that particular piece.
BTW - I placed a new order of unwaxed Poly Resin and 1708 biaxle before I left for the Thanksgiving holiday - it was delivered while I was gone and I will be back to using unwaxed resin starting tomorrow. US Composites saves the day again!
And will the cap fit back on?
Yes ? there is no problem with the cap going back on. I test fitted it back into place right after I had seated the transom into place.
I'm not trying to scare you, just be methodical and diligent, theres nothing like peace of mind 10 miles offshore. . .
That is actually chief concern I have right now with my glassing ? the southern outer banks of the Atlantic Ocean is not exactly a great place to learn that the transom is delaminating from the hull because I did a crappy job glassing!
When you took out the rotted wood was it treated wood or was it just reg. Plywood?
The wood from the stringers or the transom? Actually, it doesn?t really matter ? both the wood encased in the stringers and transom was so rotted that it would have been impossible for me to tell what type of wood it was. It literally, crumpled to the touch.
Good questions guys! Keep them coming. . . 
